GL Class (X164) 2007-2012: GL320CDI, GL420CDI, GL450, GL550

Is STAR required to program AIRmatic?

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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 04:55 PM
  #1  
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Is STAR required to program AIRmatic?

Some of you are aware of my well documented AIRmatic issues. I have changed the compressor twice, the front 2 shocks and most recently the valve body?
The car is STILL riding low low low low
it seems like the only thing left to change are the sensors, the back bags, and the reservoir itself.
After changing the Valve Body (I think that is the name) I was told that something needs to be reprogrammed with the STAR and that is why it is riding low.

Is it true something needs to be programmed by STAR?
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 07:11 PM
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No programming, just two calibration option available in DaS/STAR.

Manual and auto calibration.
They both do what you think.
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
No programming, just two calibration option available in DaS/STAR.

Manual and auto calibration.
They both do what you think.
Do I NEED that to get it to raise back up?
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 09:03 PM
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IIRC: With working level sensors, I don’t think so - the car will calibrate itself over a couple of drive cycles.

you might want to putter around a Parking lot if she’s scraping and see if she comes up - if not the fault lies elsewhere. Sensors or rear bags - reservoir I’ve never heard of being an issue unless it’s been punctured.


Dont you have DAs though? Raise/calibrate it up manually then And see if the ride level stays…

it’s under chassis - airmatic - actuations iirc?
its been so long since I ever had to touch my das wrt airmatic stuff…

Last edited by Max Blast; Aug 31, 2021 at 09:06 PM.
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Old Aug 31, 2021 | 10:34 PM
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From: Atlanta, GA
2001 S500 (W220) / 2007 GL450 (X164)
Originally Posted by Max Blast
IIRC: With working level sensors, I don’t think so - the car will calibrate itself over a couple of drive cycles.

you might want to putter around a Parking lot if she’s scraping and see if she comes up - if not the fault lies elsewhere. Sensors or rear bags - reservoir I’ve never heard of being an issue unless it’s been punctured.


Dont you have DAs though? Raise/calibrate it up manually then And see if the ride level stays…

it’s under chassis - airmatic - actuations iirc?
its been so long since I ever had to touch my das wrt airmatic stuff…
I don’t have DAS I have another scanner and when I attempt to raise it for some reason it does not raise.

does anybody have the part number for the level sensors? Maybe I’ll just change those to see if that’s the issue
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 11:45 AM
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Have you inspected the level sensors? Meaning... physically inspect them - remove, clean the ball/cup, test for easy movement, replace with some grease. You can also check that the level sensors are communicating properly. I think you already know that, though, since you posted about it in your other thread. Did you ever address the wonky one?
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 07:27 PM
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I spoke with the mechanic that put in the value block today...
he tells me that the heat from the motor messed up the colors on some of the tubes and he guessed on the last 2.
if all the tubes aren't on right would that keep it from lifting?

does anybody have some type of video or diagram showing how to install the valve block?
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Old Sep 1, 2021 | 09:00 PM
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Old Sep 3, 2021 | 12:21 AM
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Originally Posted by Mikchek
I spoke with the mechanic that put in the value block today...
he tells me that the heat from the motor messed up the colors on some of the tubes and he guessed on the last 2.
if all the tubes aren't on right would that keep it from lifting?

does anybody have some type of video or diagram showing how to install the valve block?
Uh, bigger than **** it would.
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Old Sep 4, 2021 | 02:09 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
Uh, bigger than **** it would.
I would expect weird errors, primary "System implausible". This means "I tried to get it to do something and got an irrational response".

It shouldn't be too hard to figure out which tube goes where. Three go to the back, one for each spring and one for the reservoir. One goes to each front spring, and one (the biggest) goes to the pump.
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Old Sep 9, 2021 | 02:06 PM
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No Airmatic system programming required after repair.

I just replaced my front struts, valve block and pump filter and I did not have to program the system post repair. The GL air pump ran long enough for the fill of the accumulator and the vehicle raised to the proper height. Since the repair, the pump has not run and the system has maintained pressure. You have a leak in the system. Isolate the struts and fill each one individually. The struts should be checked individually and at their full range of travel, let them sit charged and perform a leak down test. If you don't isolate each part of the system for troubleshooting, you will no doubt be throwing a lot of money at it, at some point fixing it, but not knowing what part actually fixed the issue!
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Old Oct 12, 2021 | 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Jet Wrench
I just replaced my front struts, valve block and pump filter and I did not have to program the system post repair. The GL air pump ran long enough for the fill of the accumulator and the vehicle raised to the proper height. Since the repair, the pump has not run and the system has maintained pressure. You have a leak in the system. Isolate the struts and fill each one individually. The struts should be checked individually and at their full range of travel, let them sit charged and perform a leak down test. If you don't isolate each part of the system for troubleshooting, you will no doubt be throwing a lot of money at it, at some point fixing it, but not knowing what part actually fixed the issue!
thank you for the reply but can we unpack it a bit?

how do you fill the strut individually? and what does checked at their full range of travel mean?
what is a leak down test?

what is the pump level valve? that was recently changed also. I'm just trying to figure out what went wrong here.
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 04:50 AM
  #13  
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Mikchek, I was fortunate that I was physically able to see the strut had failed at the airbag portion of the strut. There was fluid on the side of the strut and the bag itself had ruptured. It's good to have a mirror to be able to see the strut on the back side. Good light for the inspection is a must. To isolate each strut you will need to fashion an air line from the suspect strut to your air compressor. Start by regulating the air pressure to no more than 60 PSI on the strut, stop the compressor and monitor the pressure to see if you have any leaks. You should know rather quickly if there is a leak. If the date code on the strut is more than 5 years old, is is likely a strut failure. The struts, especially the front struts, are subjected to quite a preload and are exercised constantly under this load. The GL is a very heavy vehicle and the struts have the highest single point of failure of the Airmatic system. Take your time, be methodical and you will get your Airmatic system failure resolved.
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 07:31 AM
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Originally Posted by Jet Wrench
Mikchek, I was fortunate that I was physically able to see the strut had failed at the airbag portion of the strut. There was fluid on the side of the strut and the bag itself had ruptured. It's good to have a mirror to be able to see the strut on the back side. Good light for the inspection is a must. To isolate each strut you will need to fashion an air line from the suspect strut to your air compressor. Start by regulating the air pressure to no more than 60 PSI on the strut, stop the compressor and monitor the pressure to see if you have any leaks. You should know rather quickly if there is a leak. If the date code on the strut is more than 5 years old, is is likely a strut failure. The struts, especially the front struts, are subjected to quite a preload and are exercised constantly under this load. The GL is a very heavy vehicle and the struts have the highest single point of failure of the Airmatic system. Take your time, be methodical and you will get your Airmatic system failure resolved.
thank you for the reply! The thing that confuses me is I NEVER had sagging problems! I had the pump changed 2 years ago but the the error light stayed on and eventually it stopped raising and lowering with the button on the dash. Then I was told the front strut had a leak and though it still never sagged I changed BOTH front struts! The light remained on so I was told the pump was overworked overcompensating did the leak. Though it still NEVER sagged I had the pump changed trying to get rid of the damn error light in the dash. After changing it seemed to be working again. On the first drive it said raising and I heard it making noises but a day later the light came back on. Still not sagging at this point.

i took it back in and they changed the pump level sensor and when they gave it back to me it was all flat. I told them it won’t raise even with the button and they changed the valve block. Still won’t raise. So now 2 front struts, a pump, a valve block, and a pump level sensor later the car still won’t raise!

the must be something I’m missing. The original code was 5503: recovery time of filing central reservoir is too long.
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 06:35 PM
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Which points to a tired pump, or a leak from the block to reservoir line, or any line coming off of the reservoir or a leak in the reservoir itself.
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Old Oct 13, 2021 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Max Blast
Which points to a tired pump, or a leak from the block to reservoir line, or any line coming off of the reservoir or a leak in the reservoir itself.
so if I just changed the pump and the block o should check the lines?

how many lines come off the reservoir? Where do they go?
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 03:55 AM
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Mikchek, Max Blast makes a good point. You have pretty much replaced all of the parts that would be suspect with the exception of troubleshooting and confirming the reservoir / line integrity. Isolate the reservoir and pressurize to confirm that it is holding pressure. This can be done by removing the line at the valve block, capping it, run the pump and verify the reservoir is holding pressure.
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Old Oct 14, 2021 | 07:08 AM
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Originally Posted by Jet Wrench
Mikchek, Max Blast makes a good point. You have pretty much replaced all of the parts that would be suspect with the exception of troubleshooting and confirming the reservoir / line integrity. Isolate the reservoir and pressurize to confirm that it is holding pressure. This can be done by removing the line at the valve block, capping it, run the pump and verify the reservoir is holding pressure.
thanks you guys. That’s what I will focus on next!
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Old Nov 24, 2021 | 01:21 PM
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I took the truck in the shop about 6 months ago to change the pump since that is what the code typically means but after we changed the pump the car wouldn’t raise. From there the selenoid and block were changed and I got it raised again but I still get the damn message in the dash
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Old Jan 21, 2022 | 01:26 AM
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Update: I filled the pump with oil (it was empty for some reason) and tightened the screw pretty tight.
i used the button on the drivers door to open the liftgate. It only opened halfway. I pulled the button again and it went all the way up.

it’s been working good so far.
if it acts up again I’ll change the pump and reassess.
thanks to all who helped
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