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Good times: My spouse & kids are in PHX for a volleyball tournament, whilst I am home w/ other kid in CA. Our '07 GL450 is broken down in BIL's driveway (good thing!) unable to go into gear and an ESP error showing. Checked charging voltage, tried jumping it, tried the ESP reset thing... no luck. So any suggestions that they could try are appreciated, but most likely it will need to tow it to a shop on Monday morning. As mentioned, they're with family, so that's one thing we don't need to worry about! Weird thing that was described to me is that the steering column housing is loose/floating around and moves whenever they tried to put it into gear. Don't know if that's related, but definitely a coincidence for sure.
So anyway, soliciting suggestions for shops that are honest and great at diagnosing. They're in the Scottsdale area, so that's best, but greater PHX suggestions are appreciated. Also depends on who has the availability to see them ASAP which trumps things. Any reason that a MB dealer should be considered, and if so, which one in the area would be recommended? Tech Plus looks pretty highly recommended on Google: https://techplusautomotive.com/merce...ir-scottsdale/ so that's my starting spot.
And yes, it was indeed 98F at 10:00 at night. Gotta' love Phoenix in the summer!
THANKS!
Last edited by StradaRedlands; Jun 26, 2022 at 05:19 PM.
I realize your wife may not be mechanically inclined, but htis might be worth a shot.
I experience a similar issue during the winter. Every winter, or when temperature drops below say, about 50 degrees.... not sure what causes this, but definetly temperature related.
I have been able to circumvent the issue by removing the key from the ignition, re-starting the vehicle, then trying to shift without my foot on the break.. push the lever to the Drive and Reverse positions with your foot off the pedal (not just a tap, hold it for a second or so), you should hear the tranny click. Do that a couple of times, then try shifting the proper way (with your foot on the pedal). You might need to hold the lever in place a little longer than usual.
Is that the only message in the cluster? It sounds like the steering column electronics may be broken, or the wiring damaged since it's moving around. There is a T30 torx screw under the column housing to tighten. Look under the bottom of the the column near the shifter for the access hole. Alternately, wheel speed sensors are a common failure on the 164. To test that theory, put the car in dyno mode (search for the procedure) and then see if it will go into gear. In theory you (she) could drive it in dyno mode but will have no anti lock brakes, traction control or esp, and the steering may be stiff.
I realize your wife may not be mechanically inclined, but htis might be worth a shot.
I experience a similar issue during the winter. Every winter, or when temperature drops below say, about 50 degrees.... not sure what causes this, but definetly temperature related.
I have been able to circumvent the issue by removing the key from the ignition, re-starting the vehicle, then trying to shift without my foot on the break.. push the lever to the Drive and Reverse positions with your foot off the pedal (not just a tap, hold it for a second or so), you should hear the tranny click. Do that a couple of times, then try shifting the proper way (with your foot on the pedal). You might need to hold the lever in place a little longer than usual.
I will pass this on, can't hurt!!!
Originally Posted by E55Greasemonkey
Is that the only message in the cluster? It sounds like the steering column electronics may be broken, or the wiring damaged since it's moving around. There is a T30 torx screw under the column housing to tighten. Look under the bottom of the the column near the shifter for the access hole. Alternately, wheel speed sensors are a common failure on the 164. To test that theory, put the car in dyno mode (search for the procedure) and then see if it will go into gear. In theory you (she) could drive it in dyno mode but will have no anti lock brakes, traction control or esp, and the steering may be stiff.
Possibly easy fixes, at least to get it to the shop! I believe they said there is the big exclamation point ! of pain as well, but that ESP was the only error, along with not going to gear and the floating surround.
Sound like the shifter paddle has come loose and is the root cause of this. If your bil is reasonably diy talk him through how to look at the steering column and the shifter for loose or missing screws?
Thank you, as well as everyone else in the online community! VERY appreciated. Like I mentioned, we're lucky in that it happened in family's driveway, not at a random parking lot or gas station!
Dyno-mode... engaged! But didn't help Torx screw was checked and is tight Voltage was checked at jump terminals and was 12.6V, charging at 13.8V. Starts fine, just won't get in gear
Looks like a AAA call in the morning. Still wondering if anyone can confirm or recommend a repair shop in Scottsdale. Also if this sounds like a situation best handled by a dealer, please let me know... while I would prefer to not spend that extra money, I also want it handled right!
Thank you, as well as everyone else in the online community! VERY appreciated. Like I mentioned, we're lucky in that it happened in family's driveway, not at a random parking lot or gas station!
Dyno-mode... engaged! But didn't help Torx screw was checked and is tight Voltage was checked at jump terminals and was 12.6V, charging at 13.8V. Starts fine, just won't get in gear
Looks like a AAA call in the morning. Still wondering if anyone can confirm or recommend a repair shop in Scottsdale. Also if this sounds like a situation best handled by a dealer, please let me know... while I would prefer to not spend that extra money, I also want it handled right!
PHX temps at 10:30 this morning^^^
I'd recommend Goody's Automotive. They're near the airpark in Scottsdale. I actually work up at the North Scottsdale location and a ton of my clients take their cars to Goody's. They swear by them. Worth a try. I'd avoid a dealer if possible. They're all wayyyyyy overbooked and at least two weeks out. Not mention their pricing is...steep.
I'd recommend Goody's Automotive. They're near the airpark in Scottsdale. I actually work up at the North Scottsdale location and a ton of my clients take their cars to Goody's. They swear by them. Worth a try. I'd avoid a dealer if possible. They're all wayyyyyy overbooked and at least two weeks out. Not mention their pricing is...steep.
Thank you! I always prefer an indy, but have also had negative experiences with them as well, so finding a recommended one is always appreciated! And yeah, it kind of depends on who has a bay open... fingers crossed! They didn't show up when I
Right now looks like these are three good ones, all in the same general area:
Bimmer-Benz
Goody's - personal recommendation!
Tech Plus - (opens @ 7:30!)
Last edited by StradaRedlands; Jun 26, 2022 at 04:43 PM.
At this point I can't help any further without scanning for fault codes. Could be an ISM (electronic shifter on the side of trans) or something gone bad on the drivetrain CAN. If it's the ISM a dealer will have to order it and program it, it's an anti-theft part and vin locked to the car. (A used one won't work)
You might want to try the dealer first. Keep in mind whatever parts they replace carry a 2 year warranty good at any other dealer in the U.S. The Indy shops, you're likely screwed with any warranty living so far away.
At this point I can't help any further without scanning for fault codes. Could be an ISM (electronic shifter on the side of trans) or something gone bad on the drivetrain CAN. If it's the ISM a dealer will have to order it and program it, it's an anti-theft part and vin locked to the car. (A used one won't work)
YIKES! But good to know. Would a competent indy be able to identify the ISM problem and at least point me towards a dealer at that point?
Yeah but the whole shifter is dangling around is not what you said? That’s been dangling for a while and if there’s a broken connection that could cause the errors you saw before you engaged Dyno mode. I’d have your BIL look around just for any obvious breakage try to figure out why the shifter is loose.
Last thing to try, move the passenger seat forward disconnect the battery ground cable for about 15 minutes. I can't speak for an Indy's skill level or what diagnostic computer they have but diagnosing an ISM at the dealer shouldn't cost more than about $250, the part and labor to replace it might run around $1800-$2200 as a guess. My point is you're not saving anything on diag at an Indy.
Last thing to try, move the passenger seat forward disconnect the battery ground cable for about 15 minutes. I can't speak for an Indy's skill level or what diagnostic computer they have but diagnosing an ISM at the dealer shouldn't cost more than about $250, the part and labor to replace it might run around $1800-$2200 as a guess. My point is you're not saving anything on diag at an Indy.
I'll shoot that rec their way! It's going to have to be towed, so wherever we end up, we need them to be able to fix it (and quickly!).
Goody's is booked till Wed. Dealer can't see it till maybe tomorrow. Went with Scottsdale Euro who can see it today.
Shot in the dark, but they have a perfect 5.0 rating over 628 reviews, so fingers crossed! They seemed nice on the phone!
Oh, and after switching it to Dyno-Mode(!) the battery died.
Last edited by StradaRedlands; Jun 27, 2022 at 02:31 PM.
Dyno mode won't kill the battery. Likely you have a CAN issue as I mentioned before and therefore the CAN is not going to sleep, causing the battery to die. The 164, especially the GL's are famous for water intrusion causing corrosion to electronics. Keep us posted as to their findings....
Last edited by E55Greasemonkey; Jun 27, 2022 at 06:19 PM.
Yeah but the whole shifter is dangling around is not what you said? That’s been dangling for a while and if there’s a broken connection that could cause the errors you saw before you engaged Dyno mode. I’d have your BIL look around just for any obvious breakage try to figure out why the shifter is loose.
Whoever guessed front SAM corrosion leading to bad voltage wins this one! Pretty easy fix, but part needs to be shipped from New Jersey! So they're going to be chillin' in Phoenix till at least Thurs night.
I really like this shop, Scottsdale European Service! They did a thorough inspection and really noted all the problems on the vehicle then sent photos of them in a little album. I wish I could send them our five series to get worked on, as nobody near me can seem to figure it out (two indys and the dealer!).
They also noted front upper control arm bushings shot, front sway bar bushings bad, and rear shocks. I can do all those myself, so will put off for a while. I am getting the transfer case seal done while they have it as it's leaking:
Likely something spilled under the passenger seat, or an errant water bottle got crushed by the seat frame and leaked. The other suspension repairs are common and not difficult to repair. I'd replace the transfer case chain while I was in there resealing it. It's not a difficult job and can be done with the transfer case in the car. The chain is around $100 if purchased yourself and they do stretch with mileage.
Likely something spilled under the passenger seat, or an errant water bottle got crushed by the seat frame and leaked. The other suspension repairs are common and not difficult to repair. I'd replace the transfer case chain while I was in there resealing it. It's not a difficult job and can be done with the transfer case in the car. The chain is around $100 if purchased yourself and they do stretch with mileage.
Makes sense... this is my spouse's mobile office, where she eats, works, sleeps out of! We only have 115k miles on in, when does the TC chain start to show stretching?
Makes sense... this is my spouse's mobile office, where she eats, works, sleeps out of! We only have 115k miles on in, when does the TC chain start to show stretching?
Right around 100k, maybe more depending on how the car was driven. The 550 will happen sooner due to more engine torque. When it gets real bad it will start slipping and you'll have a machine-gun popping sound when accelerating from a stop.
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Torx screw was checked and is tight 
