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I replaced my compressor and the valve block on my 2010 gl450. Double checked the install, but my car will stall as soon as the compressor kicks in. Tried with my old compressor, which did not stall my car, but now the old compressor stalls the car as well. Checked the fuse box, all fuses are good, nothing burnt out. Any idea what I need to do to get the car to run? We're there any special instructions other than removing the fuses and relay before starting the removal and install of the compressor/valve block? I was hoping this was going to be a simple swap.
I replaced my compressor and the valve block on my 2010 gl450. Double checked the install, but my car will stall as soon as the compressor kicks in. Tried with my old compressor, which did not stall my car, but now the old compressor stalls the car as well. Checked the fuse box, all fuses are good, nothing burnt out.
Valves on the valve block click open when the compressor runs. I would bet that is the connection to the compressor kicking on.
What maker of valve block did you install?
How this is causing the vehicle to stall is a mystery, but certain things need to be eliminated first.
Here is a schematic I cooked up in Paint when I was bored:
Most likely a coincidence and not related to compressor. Simple test to verify: remove compressor fuse from engine bay fuse box to disable compressor (#108, 40Amp) and start the vehicle.
Scan for fault codes. Most likely a fuel system problem, or fowled plugs.
Most likely a coincidence and not related to compressor. Simple test to verify: remove compressor fuse from engine bay fuse box to disable compressor (#108, 40Amp) and start the vehicle.
Scan for fault codes. Most likely a fuel system problem, or fowled plugs.
The engine won't even turn over without that 40 amp fuse.
I found a couple cases on line where that happened to people. I took out the fuse box and inspected it. Looked like new to me but maybe I'll try to order one.
So I did use a code reader to pull codes and found that among other things, auxillary battery had an issue. I think that's my next step...
axillary battery doesn’t have anything to do with running the car systems… All it does is provide to keep a live circuit for the transmission shifter to be able to shift out of park should the main battery fail.
axillary battery doesn’t have anything to do with running the car systems… All it does is provide to keep a live circuit for the transmission shifter to be able to shift out of park should the main battery fail.
how old is your main battery?
Main battery is about 8 months old. And puts out 12 volts at ignition and 14 when engine is running.
I saw your results in your thread at Benzworld. I suggest you heed.
One lesson I have (painfully) learned is to do basic work unless you can rule out its being connected to the issue. You need to install an AMK pump and a known legitimate valve block - and then trouble shoot.
I could easily see that the Chinesium pump is causing an over-current situation, perhaps because the valve block is not opening its outlet valves and the compressor is pushing against a closed tube, and the fuse on the board is too large, due to design error, for the traces on the fuse board. I noted in the pictures that the large PCB trace is burning off its green plastic coating and then opening, as a fusible link.
Again, it is tempting to work toward a full understanding, but getting information out of the vehicle (and these boards) is like calling a party for directions and getting a drunk girl on the phone. Our experience has largely confirmed that non AMK pumps are bad, and random valve blocks are useless.
But sometimes, if drunk girl was coherent enough, she’d get you close. All you had to do then was turn everything off and listen for the noise. And hope you showed up at the right party.
12-05-2022, 09:13 AM
