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Ok looks like another weekend project. My latest GL550 that I just bought a few weeks ago has on about 6 occasions had no starter engagement..turn the key again and it fires right up. All lights on the dash turn on…Put the Star system on it and no codes.
After doing a lot of online reading I watched this video and think it might be the issue. Does not look very time consuming … any tips or other advice about the occasional EIS no go. The video shows the resoldering of the 3 pin connector that breaks loose.
https://youtu.be/ZC9Zm8SIzSk?si=BR-I8N9LAVsm2UMA
Last edited by vesiadog; 04-12-2024 at 02:22 PM.
Reason: wording
The common symptom is that a stuffed EIS cranks most of the time but not always. The youtube fixes are the way to go. It a relatively easy fix and you'll know almost immediately if that's the problem.
The common symptom is that a stuffed EIS cranks most of the time but not always. The youtube fixes are the way to go. It a relatively easy fix and you'll know almost immediately if that's the problem.
Thanks so have it all tore apart waiting for the removal tool to arrive via Amazon this afternoon. It is definitely strange..I also have the Keyless Go system .. hopefully it is not that . I have removed the button and just use the key. Just had a brand new factory key made last week? Ok thanks for the reply . Bill
Well the connector stayed on the pins so it was definitely weak. Sure would like to know if everyone finds the 3 pin connector comes off while taking the board out of the plastic EIS box and stays on the pins???? Soldered the connector back on the board and snapped everything together… turn it on at least 10 times with no failures yet… I will include a few pictures
Last edited by vesiadog; 04-13-2024 at 07:29 PM.
Reason: wording
Well the connector stayed on the pins so it was definitely weak. Sure would like to know if everyone finds the 3 pin connector comes off while taking the board out of the plastic EIS box and stays on the pins???? Soldered the connector back on the board and snapped everything together… turn it on at least 10 times with no failures yet… I will include a few pictures
Yes thats why its intermittent and not a constant fault however it ultimately becomes permanent. The pins break but rest against each other at least enough to start the car most of the time. I expect you've solved the problem from herein.
Yes thats why its intermittent and not a constant fault however it ultimately becomes permanent. The pins break but rest against each other at least enough to start the car most of the time. I expect you've solved the problem from herein.
As you can see from the first picture the solder joints were very cold joints. In my job experiences I soldered thousands of joints and hundreds of boards. I was a senior electronic specialist in both motor controls and medical equipment building many MRI vans and Catscans.
It is so hard to believe that the connectors are put on so badly. The board looks very good so I am thinking the board must come in from another source and then someone solders the connector and puts the black box together . Even though it was only NOT starting maybe 1 out of maybe 10 or 20 tries… I was confident it would leave me stranded … the $11
ignition removal tool is worth having so you don’t make a bunch of marks on the key area IMO. Amazon has a bunch of them from $6 to $30.
Last edited by vesiadog; 04-13-2024 at 08:58 PM.
Reason: wording
04-12-2024, 02:17 PM
