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Yep, definitely a flaw in the manufacturing process of these radiators. Here's the hot coolant seeping into the cavity of my driver's side top radiator mounting stud. Just going to wait for it to cool down a bit and then will use the radiator patch kit too. If it fails, I'll post back.
Same thing happened to me. Ml350 2012 bluetec. What is the best fix according to everyone? Do I use Jb weld on the inside of the stud? Is changing the radiator really that hard?
New radiator is the fix. Changing radiators does not seem hard from reports on this site. Search feature will bring up several examples of replacement.
Is there any way to do it without vacuuming the AC? I don't see this as a DIY since you need to have the machine for that. What's my other option? Let the gas escape and then refill it at a shop?
WIS calls for air conditioning evacuation for W166/M276. Search this site, there may be a poster who did this without draining the AC. The condenser has flexible hoses, the question is are they flexible enough.
You can work around it, its actually not that bad. The bumper does not need to come off, it more time to fit the new radiator back in than anything. The left side was tough to snap back in. Its a super manageable task, just get new clips for the trans lines.
One year later and there are no issues with the patch. This was one of the easiest repairs there is and strengthens the flawed plastic seam/joint between two half castings of the radiator - an obvious production defect. I bought a generic plastic radiator repair 2-part epoxy. It's a black thick syrup when mixed and designed to adhere/bond to radiator plastics. When the car was cool, I cleaned the pocket of all coolant and residues, wiped with alcohol on a q-tip, and filled it about 1/2" deep with the epoxy. Very easy and cost about $8 USD.
Great to know!! I went ahead and did the radiator swap. It was a PITA and requires two people. Also you risk damaging more lines and connections. If this happens again to my aftermarket radiator, that will be my first attempt to fix with the epoxy!
Thanks to all the great posts! I'm working on replacing the turbo cooling lines on my 2013 GL450 right now. Unfortunately, one of the changeover valve port was broken when I removed the hose. This is a discontinued part (A000-506-32-64). I couldn't find any replacement part information. Any suggestions is highly appreciated,
Thank you for the information! The linked changeover valve has five open ports. Mine has only three. It might work only if I know the diagram and function of each port and plug two of the ports. My last option is to fix the broken port by mounting an adaptor onto it.
You could also take the broken part to a dealer and ask the parts counter guy to order the latest valid part. It will likely be expensive, but it will be the right part. Or you can buy WIS/EPC and see if there is a valid superceded part number.
My 2013 GL 450 120k has started with the usual coolant leaks. First was turbo coolant lines. Dealer repaired that for $2,500. He recommended water pump replacement, for another $3,000. So I have decided to refresh the entire coolant system myself.... radiator, water pump, thermostat, hoses, expansion tank. I have followed all the YouTube videos and Forum advice. I am stuck on radiator removal. I have removed cooling fan, removed all the hoses including the auto trans fluid hoses, I have released the plastic clips on the side, I have cleared the top mounts, I have pushed the ball stub through the rubber grommets on the bottom. It should be free, but is solidly stuck. I have the replacement radiator and cannot find any other connection points. It should be free of the car, but is not. Does anyone have a detailed removal procedure? I feel like I must be missing something. I have tried to lever it from the bottom, but don't want to break anything. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
I found that unscrewing the ground wire on the lower, drivers side made a huge difference. I did not see it in any of the guides, but when I was under there, it seemed like an obvious thing. After that it was pretty easy to manueaver.
I used a pair of channel lock pliers and GENTLY wiggled it until it came off. Be gentle and wiggle it while lifting up. Don't get impatient. It will come out.
I'm losing about an inch a month (as measured from the reservoir) and have no visible leaks that I can see. Reservoir is clean with no oil and oil doesn't look like it has coolant from what I can tell. Maybe a slight leak from back of engine or bottom part of radiator that I can't see? Anyone have this same thing happen and no visible leak points?
07-27-2022, 11:01 PM
