GL Class (X166) 2013-2015 after facelift became GLS (X166)

Blinking DRL issue

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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 04:43 PM
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Question Blinking DRL issue

The driver's side DRL has been blinking on and off and now I'm getting the DRL malfunction warning in the dash. Based on its behavior, it seems like there is a weak connection or something. Has anybody else had this problem? If so, what did you do to fix it?
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 02:58 PM
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It's likely the LED DRL is defective. Weak connection is not likely. You can simply try to swap the left and right ones see if the problem migrates. The two DRL are not physically interchangeable but the electrical connectors are the same so you can hang them there to test.
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:42 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
It's likely the LED DRL is defective. Weak connection is not likely. You can simply try to swap the left and right ones see if the problem migrates. The two DRL are not physically interchangeable but the electrical connectors are the same so you can hang them there to test.
Would the flickering in that one DRL have something to do with a weak ballast? And is the ballast built into the strip?
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:50 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Would the flickering in that one DRL have something to do with a weak ballast in that strip?
I guess the "ballast" you are talking about is the LED diodes? That's definitely possible. The LED DRL is simply a small circuit board with the LEDs, some resistors and diodes that's it. Any component on the board goes bad it will not work properly. Flickering problem is usually caused by a defective LED diode. If you are electronically handy you can crack open the LED DRL case, get the board out and test which component is bad and get it replaced with a new component (requires soldering skill on electronic). I have done this before and it's not too difficult but you will need to source the LED diodes. They are not cheap either so it would probably make more sense to find one from junkyard.
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 06:40 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
I guess the "ballast" you are talking about is the LED diodes? That's definitely possible. The LED DRL is simply a small circuit board with the LEDs, some resistors and diodes that's it. Any component on the board goes bad it will not work properly. Flickering problem is usually caused by a defective LED diode. If you are electronically handy you can crack open the LED DRL case, get the board out and test which component is bad and get it replaced with a new component (requires soldering skill on electronic). I have done this before and it's not too difficult but you will need to source the LED diodes. They are not cheap either so it would probably make more sense to find one from junkyard.
Dealer wants $325 + tax for the LED strip. Found new OEM part through Benz dealer online for $143 + $12 shipping. So I'm going that route. I assume it's just plug and play without any coding or anything, right?
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Dealer wants $325 + tax for the LED strip. Found new OEM part through Benz dealer online for $143 + $12 shipping. So I'm going that route. I assume it's just plug and play without any coding or anything, right?
Correct. The installation is very easy just pry the black cover behind the light out from the bumper and then you can unclip the light from the cover. The only tool required would be a long wedge (or a flat head screwdriver with some cloth to prevent chipping the paint).
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 07:04 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
Correct. The installation is very easy just pry the black cover behind the light out from the bumper and then you can unclip the light from the cover. The only tool required would be a long wedge (or a flat head screwdriver with some cloth to prevent chipping the paint).
So it's all done from the front and you don't have to get in to the back side of the bumper?
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Old Apr 21, 2020 | 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
So it's all done from the front and you don't have to get in to the back side of the bumper?
That's right. This is the official procedure to replace the DRL from WIS/ASRA for my 2015. I assume it's the same across all pre-facelift X166.


Last edited by geniushanbiao; Apr 21, 2020 at 07:09 PM.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:43 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
That's right. This is the official procedure to replace the DRL from WIS/ASRA for my 2015. I assume it's the same across all pre-facelift X166.
Do you happen to have the instructions for the GL550/GL63 removal? They are a different design.
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Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:55 PM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Do you happen to have the instructions for the GL550/GL63 removal? They are a different design.
Here's the one for 166.074/874.


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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
Here's the one for 166.074/874.

Is there some sort of trick to getting that chrome cover off? I've pushed that wedge up there from the bottom in the spot it shows on the diagram, twisted and turned it, yet it still won't pop off. It seems like it is only attached/clipped at the top while the bottom area does not seem to have any clips.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 11:59 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
Is there some sort of trick to getting that chrome cover off? I've pushed that wedge up there from the bottom in the spot it shows on the diagram, twisted and turned it, yet it still won't pop off. It seems like it is only attached/clipped at the top while the bottom area does not seem to have any clips.
I've never worked on this model as I never had such vehicle but usually a universal trick for those plastic is to heat it up with a hair dryer so those plastic parts would become soft, that will make it easier to pop. Don't work on it when it's cold. The plastic are more brittle when it's cold. Be careful don't heat too much as you can damage the plastic parts. Apply pressure with the wedge and use the other hand to wiggle the cover it should not be difficult to make it come loose. Also you may try to use some lubricant but test it on the paint first to ensure it doesn't cause damage to the painted surface.
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 12:12 PM
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Originally Posted by geniushanbiao
I've never worked on this model as I never had such vehicle but usually a universal trick for those plastic is to heat it up with a hair dryer so those plastic parts would become soft, that will make it easier to pop. Don't work on it when it's cold. The plastic are more brittle when it's cold. Be careful don't heat too much as you can damage the plastic parts. Apply pressure with the wedge and use the other hand to wiggle the cover it should not be difficult to make it come loose. Also you may try to use some lubricant but test it on the paint first to ensure it doesn't cause damage to the painted surface.
I ended up getting the bezel off, but broke 2 clips. One of them I can't find and the other I'm trying to JB Weld and see if it works. Worst case scenario is I'll buy another bezel for $100. Between the light bar and the bezel, it is still over $80 less than the dealer wanted just for the light bar.
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Old Apr 25, 2020 | 06:40 PM
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JB Weld took care of the broken clip on the side that was broken. The new DRL went in in less than 5 minutes and works perfectly! Thanks for your help genius. It saved me over $250 from what the dealer wanted to do the job.
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Old Apr 26, 2020 | 01:08 AM
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Originally Posted by DaveW68
JB Weld took care of the broken clip on the side that was broken. The new DRL went in in less than 5 minutes and works perfectly! Thanks for your help genius. It saved me over $250 from what the dealer wanted to do the job.
Glad to hear that!
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