2014 GL350 AirMatic Malfunction Warning
#1
Junior Member
Thread Starter
2014 GL350 AirMatic Malfunction Warning
The AirMatic Malfunction Warning is beginning to come on. The warning will come on while driving and will not clear. After turning car off it resets itself. On the next drive cycle it may or mat not return but eventually it does return. The car will still go up and down as commanded albeit slowly up.
I'm looking for documentation that shows the following;
1) Component Location
2) Part number lists
3) Troubleshooting procedure
My understanding there is a Solenoid Valve Block as part of the system. One question is if it gets replaced where it is plug and play or required the Star System to assign to the vehicle?
Thanks in advance for any inputs and help. Dan C
I'm looking for documentation that shows the following;
1) Component Location
2) Part number lists
3) Troubleshooting procedure
My understanding there is a Solenoid Valve Block as part of the system. One question is if it gets replaced where it is plug and play or required the Star System to assign to the vehicle?
Thanks in advance for any inputs and help. Dan C
#2
Super Member
I won't be able to answer some of your questions. Before throwing parts at the car, have you scanned for codes? Those will help eliminate components in the system and point you in a direction. You didn't mention if you'd DIY, but it sounded to me like you might be inclined? If you don't have a scanner, it would be a good idea to invest in one if you have t already, especially if you'd DIY. Lots of options out there with varying capabilities and cost. I use the iCarSoft MB II, but it does not allow adaptations, only scans for codes.
What may not give you codes are airbag leaks. Soap water test could help you determine if they are at fault. Spray the valve vlock as well to check for leaks.
There are tons of threads here and YouTube videos about airmatic and how to change components. Those should give you good visuals about what you're looking for and where it's located. Components of the airmatic are compressor, valve block, pressure tank, airbags, aka air springs, and the lines connecting all of the above. There is a filter as well in line with the compressor, IIRC.
What may not give you codes are airbag leaks. Soap water test could help you determine if they are at fault. Spray the valve vlock as well to check for leaks.
There are tons of threads here and YouTube videos about airmatic and how to change components. Those should give you good visuals about what you're looking for and where it's located. Components of the airmatic are compressor, valve block, pressure tank, airbags, aka air springs, and the lines connecting all of the above. There is a filter as well in line with the compressor, IIRC.
#3
Junior Member
I did this job DYI on my 2014 GL550 just 2 weeks ago. To access the solenoid block remove the front passenger tire, wheel liner, and you will see it right there. No programming needed, straight swap out and go. Make sure you leak test before buttoning everything back up using some soapy water. I also replaced my compressor at that time, it was burnt out due to over working from failed rear air bags, which I also replaced them as well. Got all my parts from AutohausAZ and went with the reputable aftermarket brand Arnott for the compressor, airbags, solenoid block, and inlet filter. PM me with your email address and VIN if you want me to send you PDFs of the WIS documentation.
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cadetdrivr (01-19-2021)
#4
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X166 blue tec 2014 / 2009 Toyota Venza
I did this job DYI on my 2014 GL550 just 2 weeks ago. To access the solenoid block remove the front passenger tire, wheel liner, and you will see it right there. No programming needed, straight swap out and go. Make sure you leak test before buttoning everything back up using some soapy water. I also replaced my compressor at that time, it was burnt out due to over working from failed rear air bags, which I also replaced them as well. Got all my parts from AutohausAZ and went with the reputable aftermarket brand Arnott for the compressor, airbags, solenoid block, and inlet filter. PM me with your email address and VIN if you want me to send you PDFs of the WIS documentation.
#5
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2014 GL450, 1992 W140 300SD, 1993 W140 300SE, 1987 E30 Convertible
There are two bags in rear and airstruts in front. The front ones usually swapped whole (or you can rebuild it if you good with things).
Leaking airbags are easy to see - your car will sag overnight at the leaking airbags.
Scan for codes - could be sensors or compressor
Leaking airbags are easy to see - your car will sag overnight at the leaking airbags.
Scan for codes - could be sensors or compressor
#6
Junior Member
Thread Starter
Just an update and problem resolved (hopeful) - Replaced the Air Suspension Solenoid Valve Unit since the systems were acting intermittent. Some rides the 'Malfunction' indicator would come on at car start and others it would come on after an hour, with variations in between those extremes. No noted sagging or air leaks from the 4 corners. The replacement was was the Arnott Air Suspension Solenoid Valve Unit VB-3267. Best price was from RockAuto any even got the item within 3-days.
Note about the actual removal and replacement;
1) CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is blocked both front and rear. Failure to do this will cause the vehicle to collapse to near ground level. Can you say low-rider!
2) The brass collets on each hose are very fragile and prone to break upon spreading to remove and install. There is 2 sizes used, one 6 mm and five 3mm. After discussion with Arnott Tech Support they offered an alternate procedure whereby you reuse the old fittings and collets. Ensure the O-rings are moist with some silicone lubricant. And do not over tighten the fitting into the valve body.
3) Found it best to remove the old valve unit and allow it to hang, mount the new one and then one by one replace each hose into it's proper position. Each hose may have a color code marking on it although it many be obscured or worn off. The important point is to get in correct order.
4) After installation I started car for a few minutes and then shut off. Listen for any air leaks prior to buttoning up the wheel well cover. I also cleared any codes with my scan tool.
5) After grounding the vehicle it was time for the test drive. No Malfunction indicator and no recurrence of the codes.
Shout out to the Arnott Tech Rep Robert Hindsley. Fast and efficient support. I'm willing to share his email with the alternate procedure if you contact me via PM with your email. DC.
Note about the actual removal and replacement;
1) CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is blocked both front and rear. Failure to do this will cause the vehicle to collapse to near ground level. Can you say low-rider!
2) The brass collets on each hose are very fragile and prone to break upon spreading to remove and install. There is 2 sizes used, one 6 mm and five 3mm. After discussion with Arnott Tech Support they offered an alternate procedure whereby you reuse the old fittings and collets. Ensure the O-rings are moist with some silicone lubricant. And do not over tighten the fitting into the valve body.
3) Found it best to remove the old valve unit and allow it to hang, mount the new one and then one by one replace each hose into it's proper position. Each hose may have a color code marking on it although it many be obscured or worn off. The important point is to get in correct order.
4) After installation I started car for a few minutes and then shut off. Listen for any air leaks prior to buttoning up the wheel well cover. I also cleared any codes with my scan tool.
5) After grounding the vehicle it was time for the test drive. No Malfunction indicator and no recurrence of the codes.
Shout out to the Arnott Tech Rep Robert Hindsley. Fast and efficient support. I'm willing to share his email with the alternate procedure if you contact me via PM with your email. DC.
#7
Junior Member
Just an update and problem resolved (hopeful) - Replaced the Air Suspension Solenoid Valve Unit since the systems were acting intermittent. Some rides the 'Malfunction' indicator would come on at car start and others it would come on after an hour, with variations in between those extremes. No noted sagging or air leaks from the 4 corners. The replacement was was the Arnott Air Suspension Solenoid Valve Unit VB-3267. Best price was from RockAuto any even got the item within 3-days.
Note about the actual removal and replacement;
1) CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is blocked both front and rear. Failure to do this will cause the vehicle to collapse to near ground level. Can you say low-rider!
2) The brass collets on each hose are very fragile and prone to break upon spreading to remove and install. There is 2 sizes used, one 6 mm and five 3mm. After discussion with Arnott Tech Support they offered an alternate procedure whereby you reuse the old fittings and collets. Ensure the O-rings are moist with some silicone lubricant. And do not over tighten the fitting into the valve body.
3) Found it best to remove the old valve unit and allow it to hang, mount the new one and then one by one replace each hose into it's proper position. Each hose may have a color code marking on it although it many be obscured or worn off. The important point is to get in correct order.
4) After installation I started car for a few minutes and then shut off. Listen for any air leaks prior to buttoning up the wheel well cover. I also cleared any codes with my scan tool.
5) After grounding the vehicle it was time for the test drive. No Malfunction indicator and no recurrence of the codes.
Shout out to the Arnott Tech Rep Robert Hindsley. Fast and efficient support. I'm willing to share his email with the alternate procedure if you contact me via PM with your email. DC.
Note about the actual removal and replacement;
1) CAUTION: Make sure the vehicle is blocked both front and rear. Failure to do this will cause the vehicle to collapse to near ground level. Can you say low-rider!
2) The brass collets on each hose are very fragile and prone to break upon spreading to remove and install. There is 2 sizes used, one 6 mm and five 3mm. After discussion with Arnott Tech Support they offered an alternate procedure whereby you reuse the old fittings and collets. Ensure the O-rings are moist with some silicone lubricant. And do not over tighten the fitting into the valve body.
3) Found it best to remove the old valve unit and allow it to hang, mount the new one and then one by one replace each hose into it's proper position. Each hose may have a color code marking on it although it many be obscured or worn off. The important point is to get in correct order.
4) After installation I started car for a few minutes and then shut off. Listen for any air leaks prior to buttoning up the wheel well cover. I also cleared any codes with my scan tool.
5) After grounding the vehicle it was time for the test drive. No Malfunction indicator and no recurrence of the codes.
Shout out to the Arnott Tech Rep Robert Hindsley. Fast and efficient support. I'm willing to share his email with the alternate procedure if you contact me via PM with your email. DC.