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My GL550 engine is a complete toast. 7x cylinders have a significant scoring.
Purchased a used engine (originally did not want to go the re-sleeving route) and it seems that this new engine already started developing issues. Thus, could any of you who have more knowledge and experience with this engine tell me if I better return this engine while there is a return window? Paid $4k with shipping. Am I going to be better off with rebuilding my engine which is at 121K?
Date is incorrect (did not set proper date on borescope) Cylinder 4 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 1 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 7 Cylinder 8
Last edited by Spilgrim; 01-10-2024 at 05:46 PM.
Reason: bad formatting
Sorry to hear. What year was your GL550 engine that had 7x cylinders with scoring?
Originally Posted by Spilgrim
My GL550 engine is a complete toast. 7x cylinders have a significant scoring.
Purchased a used engine (originally did not want to go the re-sleeving route) and it seems that this new engine already started developing issues. Thus, could any of you who have more knowledge and experience with this engine tell me if I better return this engine while there is a return window? Paid $4k with shipping. Am I going to be better off with rebuilding my engine which is at 121K?
Date is incorrect (did not set proper date on borescope) Cylinder 4 Cylinder 3 Cylinder 1 Cylinder 5 Cylinder 7 Cylinder 8
Spend some time on Google to find hone procedure for Alisul engines, buy new set of pistons and rings (original for Alusil engine) and keep driving another 80k miles.
Sorry to hear. What year was your GL550 engine that had 7x cylinders with scoring?
2014 121K miles on it.
After sifting through multiple forums and talking to a friend who is a mechanic in Germany, it seems to me that this scoring issue is much more prominent in the US than in Europe. The difference that we have is fuel. In Europe, high-grade gasoline does not contain ethanol. Thus it might be that ethanol is reacting with aluminum making alusil coating brittle which leads to easy scratching. Another anecdotal evidence, a friend of mine who got 260K miles on his CLS 550, always filled with no ethanol gasoline. No scoring whatsoever.
I found information on how to do it but it does require purchasing of some tooling. I suppose if the seller of this engine will be willing to give a discount to cover additional expenses it might be a way to go. But it is already a piece of helpful information that in this state bores are still recoverable.
In my experience the labor and associated parts, mounts, etc are nearly as much as the motor. The decision is simply how long are you keeping the car,? No reason to spend $5 in labor on am engine that will only last a couple years. Especially on a $10k car.
Sell it to Carvana and let them deal with it.
On the other hand, there is not much that drives like these and the rest of the car is pristine maybe it is worth it?
He is not suppose to pay, there is nothing wrong with the engine but normal wear. You problems could be associated with valves, adjusters, camshafts, etc... Anyway easiest way out to sell....
How much it usually cost to rebuild this motor.
To put cast iron sleeves - 2000 (including sleeves)
Ductile iron sleeves will cost you 1500 more and month of wait time to get them manufactured
Bearings seals and gaskets will go around 1000
New piston go for about 300 from MB, or you buy without skirt damage at 140 from eBay and another 50 to get it recoated plus shipping makes 200 per cylinder.
There is Chinese rebuild kit for 1600 at eBay - but you are on your own, i would not risk buying it
Timing chain components (if decide to replace) goes for about 700
Heads overhaul will cost at about 1000.
so what is the grand total amount?
and what if am not sure about the head will you inspect upon tear down?
Spend some time on Google to find hone procedure for Alisul engines, buy new set of pistons and rings (original for Alusil engine) and keep driving another 80k miles.
Thank you for all the info!
Are you familiar which pistons should work with cast iron sleeves?
I see 278-030-01-00 with a description saying they are "for cast iron sleeves". Can I just use them, with all included in the kit rings?
Or it's better/same to go with 278-030-23-17-64, but in this case I need to reuse one of the old rings?
Is there a size difference between them?
Last edited by another; 04-09-2024 at 09:15 PM.
Reason: Forgot a question
I was in the same situation. The engine was completely roasted. The car was then hit to make it look like it was in an accident, and sold at Copart as an insurance writeoff, to a naive buyer (me). Then, I got another car as an engine donor, this car was also an insurance writeoff, flood loss, so I thought at least the engine would be good for a swap. Nope, the car never saw any water, it was the engine that was roasted. Tried to sell it back to Copart, they offered me $500. After reading this forum, I reached out to arsupisemnet for an overhaul. He did a superb job, the car drives like a dream.
01-10-2024, 05:44 PM
Advice on the state of these cylinders
