Strut Repair




Now the front driver side is drooping overnight. I'd prefer to do the swap myself.
From what I've seen here, there are three options:
- Replace just the bags with Suncore Industries bags
- ~$250 for a pair
- downside is they apparently kind of suck and will fail and might not be supported well by Suncore.
- Replace the entire strut with an Arnott Strut
- FCPEuro has them, and does lifetime replacements.
- ~$700 each, recommended to replace in pairs
- May lack Adaptive Damping System (ADS)/Adaptive Control Suspension and result in a more floaty ride.
- Replace the entire strut with a Mercedes part.
- Available at mbonlineparts.com - $856.20 for the part + core charge (must return core for ~100 back)
- With adaptive damping sys. Adaptive Control Suspension.
Thanks!
I replaced a front strut on my 2006 ML500. The previous owner had only replaced one, so I got to do the other one. You should have them both replaced at the same time! This job isn't much more difficult than changing a strut on any other vehicle, but it's a job that took me a full day. I then took my car to the local shop for an alignment and they couldn't figure out how to do it. So you should make sure you have someone who can do that after you've swapped the parts.
Jeff
Theres also a version (AS3155/56) that say "premium eibach shocks" - any recommendations on which ones to go with? Eibach or non-Eibach?
I'm also seeing there are ADS and Non-ADS options. The mechanic that did my rear bag quoted ~2k for the front strut, and claimed that my vehicle has ADS. However, there's no adjustability button for ride type inside the car, only the automatic raise/lower when on the highway. That makes me think my car does not have ADS. Is there a way to know for certain?
I agree, the prices are outrageous. Imma do these myself, they don't look too hard, but I can see the job being time consuming...
I had a local shop replace mine - about $700 in labor for both sides.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
- Detach brake caliper, along with all the sensors on it along with the little plastic wire holder thing and hang it out of the way.
- Remove upper A arm nut and sway bar arm linkage nut
- Remove the axle nut (note that I was able to re-use one, but the other one I broke off where they had tapped it in, so I just tossed it and ordered a new one.)
- On the drivers side I removed the axle entirely to get the strut off. On the passenger side I used a 1" thick piece of oak to jack up one side high enough that I could pass the axle underneath it, and the reverse to replace.
- Do all the steps in reverse. :-)
It wasn't too hard - the hardest/longest part was getting the strut off and new strut over the axle to get it in place.
- I didn't realize I'd have to remove the axle nut and press out the axle in order to fit the strut over it. I didn't have a brass tap to tap it out, but I did have some white oak, which worked out great :-)
- The passenger side is a lot harder to do than the driver side (IMO)
- on the lower control arm nut that attaches the struct to the lower control arm?
- Upper Control arm nut (to link the control arm to the upper a-arm)?
- Sway bar arm linkage nut?
- Three nuts at the top of the strut?
- Axle Lug nut?
Thanks!


If just one strut is sagging and XENTRY can't adjust it MINE turned out to be a VALVE BLOCK a $50 part that is easy to replace
As my day is coming, has anyone repaired the front struts vs. replacing them with OEM or Arnott ones? Thought I had seen mention of that on this forum but can't find it.
If so, any details on the repair would be great in preparation.
In my case, I'd really like to keep the "active" nature (continuous dampening) of the OEM setup (my vehicle has the Active Dampening Systems, "ADS") but about choked when dealer gave me $2,600 estimate to replace just the Rear Left shock absorber that failed. I'm looking at aftermarket options and read that some generic replacement shock absorbers simply use a resistor to pacify the vehicle's onboard systems and just use a "fixed" cylinder (i.e. no *real* active dampening happening). I've been speaking with Suncore Industries customer service and they swear, up and down, that their 170M-13-R-PAIR part retains ADS (not just pacifies it with a resistor connected to the ADS electronics). I'm finding this hard to believe, so trying to the bottom of it and wanted to hear from someone who replaced their shock absorbers with Suncore Industries replacements.



@asuchander how are the Arnott's with the Eibach shock? Is the ride quality decent and comparable to OEM? Aging okay over the last several months?







