Cranks Longer on First Attempt Alwnays

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May 13, 2025 | 05:53 PM
  #26  
Quote: yeah I turn it off when I get in 90% of the time, other than that I stop, it activates, then I turn it off lol.
Your starter should be fine, so did you have a chance to check the fuel pressure other forum members recommended?
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May 13, 2025 | 05:54 PM
  #27  
This might be difficult but also check the condition of the fuel pump, I guess since you mentioned there are no codes, it wouldn't likely be a fuel pump either, when was the fuel pump filter last changed (I forgot if the fuel pump filter is integrated with the fuel pump so you might need to change the pump to change the filter). Please someone correct me if I am wrong.
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May 13, 2025 | 05:56 PM
  #28  
Quote: yeah I turn it off when I get in 90% of the time, other than that I stop, it activates, then I turn it off lol.
I think I wanna do oil and spark plugs this weekend to knock the cheap stuff out the way, but my dilemma is guessing it’s the tank fuel pump, and either buying a used one for 200, a new one for 900 or an online new one for 300 ish. If I put a new one and it doesn’t fix “, that’s 900 gone. If I put a used one and it doesn’t fix, then was the fuel pump bad or is there another issue causing the long crank. Still thinking this over.
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May 13, 2025 | 05:58 PM
  #29  
Quote: I can get a video tomorrow morning after letting it sit over night, I clicked it twice and waited 10 seconds before and have not noticed a difference too much. Temperature doesn’t really seem to make much of a difference right now between 6-18 Celsius a day.

But hypothetically let’s say it’s losing fuel pressure, what is there to be done, if no Schrader valve, is it needing a scanner to watch the pressure after the engine is turned off? As the individual mention earlier there is a lot of points it could leak at and maybe too difficult for a non-technician like myself. There wouldn’t happen to be spots to plug in a gauge and watch it manually?
Sorry there are two threads ongoing at the same time with the same long crank issue but different triggers (yours only cold, the other forum member only warm) so I do apologize if I am answering the wrong questions.

Which scanner are you using? I don't think I saw you mentioned, perhaps the scanner can do testing of the fuel pump (priming it), called actuation testing, it should also be able to check the starter and see if its sensors picks up out of bound parameters/reference values/numbers.
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May 13, 2025 | 06:00 PM
  #30  
Quote: I think I wanna do oil and spark plugs this weekend to knock the cheap stuff out the way, but my dilemma is guessing it’s the tank fuel pump, and either buying a used one for 200, a new one for 900 or an online new one for 300 ish. If I put a new one and it doesn’t fix “, that’s 900 gone. If I put a used one and it doesn’t fix, then was the fuel pump bad or is there another issue causing the long crank. Still thinking this over.
That is not a bad idea, they are usually replaced every 60,000 miles for example. Coils might be fine, spark plugs is not a bad idea.

Yes, it is tricky because without having codes, you can't determine if it really is the fuel pump.
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May 13, 2025 | 06:01 PM
  #31  
Quote: This might be difficult but also check the condition of the fuel pump, I guess since you mentioned there are no codes, it wouldn't likely be a fuel pump either, when was the fuel pump filter last changed (I forgot if the fuel pump filter is integrated with the fuel pump so you might need to change the pump to change the filter). Please someone correct me if I am wrong.
I will do some research into the fuel filter as well.
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May 13, 2025 | 06:03 PM
  #32  
Quote: I’m starting to lean towards installing this, probably not a good idea to get one off Amazon? My thinking is a check valve that’s integrated into this pump maybe causing my issues? I’m gonna call the dealer to price one shipped to me.
Hmmm probably.

Did you have a chance to check the fuel pressure from the rails other forum members suggested yet?

For the sparkplugs, make sure to buy OEM and be careful of counterfeits, OEM MB plugs are pre-indexed.
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May 13, 2025 | 06:04 PM
  #33  
Quote: I will do some research into the fuel filter as well.
Sounds good
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May 13, 2025 | 06:33 PM
  #34  
Quote: Hmmm probably.

Did you have a chance to check the fuel pressure from the rails other forum members suggested yet?

For the sparkplugs, make sure to buy OEM and be careful of counterfeits, OEM MB plugs are pre-indexed.
Okay, my scanner is a launch scanner from Amazon and Google doesn’t say I can do live fuel pressure, maybe if I bought the full fiction, but we will see. I ordered the plugs through Napa, not thinking they would be OEM, so I will look into that tomorrow.
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May 13, 2025 | 07:35 PM
  #35  
Quote: Okay, my scanner is a launch scanner from Amazon and Google doesn’t say I can do live fuel pressure, maybe if I bought the full fiction, but we will see. I ordered the plugs through Napa, not thinking they would be OEM, so I will look into that tomorrow.
Is it V1.0 or V2.0? Although Launch scanner comes in many versions so need the exact model number but I mean if you can't find it in the scanner, it probably isn't available.
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May 13, 2025 | 07:43 PM
  #36  
Quote: I think I wanna do oil and spark plugs this weekend to knock the cheap stuff out the way, but my dilemma is guessing it’s the tank fuel pump, and either buying a used one for 200, a new one for 900 or an online new one for 300 ish. If I put a new one and it doesn’t fix “, that’s 900 gone. If I put a used one and it doesn’t fix, then was the fuel pump bad or is there another issue causing the long crank. Still thinking this over.
I wouldn't bother with a used fuel pump, unless it came from a wrecked car.
My experience with fuel pumps is that fuel is the lubricant that keeps them alive, and if they ran dry they are already in failure mode.
I don't think there's a way to test them out of the car, before you spend the time installing it.

My experience is dated, however, so it may not apply to current fuel pumps.
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May 14, 2025 | 06:35 AM
  #37  
use mechanical fuel gage on fuel rail
not engine computer fuel pressure readings. (could be issue))
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May 14, 2025 | 12:42 PM
  #38  
Quote: use mechanical fuel gage on fuel rail
not engine computer fuel pressure readings. (could be issue))
Thanks for the clarification.
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May 14, 2025 | 12:43 PM
  #39  
OP, here is a good read on the fuel filter from one of our most respected forum members, hope he is able to help you: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pressure.html
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May 21, 2025 | 06:03 PM
  #40  
Quote: OP, here is a good read on the fuel filter from one of our most respected forum members, hope he is able to help you: https://mbworld.org/forums/e-class-w...-pressure.html
Okay I will give that a read now, did an oil change and no difference, spark plugs were not wet or black, I don’t have OEM so I gonna move on to the next few tasks. Just wanted to keep the thread updated. Talking to a guy Monday who works on exotic stuff who has a better scanner. Also reason dealer is t really mentioned is I live on an island and the dealership is across a bridge and didn’t answer my three calls lol
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May 21, 2025 | 06:11 PM
  #41  
Quote: use mechanical fuel gage on fuel rail
not engine computer fuel pressure readings. (could be issue))
My father and I spent much time under the hood looking for a place to connect a gauge to the fuel rail; I didn't see much online of people doing it for my GLC300. Do some Mercedes just not have one, or could I be missing something?
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May 21, 2025 | 08:07 PM
  #42  
Quote: Okay I will give that a read now, did an oil change and no difference, spark plugs were not wet or black, I don’t have OEM so I gonna move on to the next few tasks. Just wanted to keep the thread updated. Talking to a guy Monday who works on exotic stuff who has a better scanner. Also reason dealer is t really mentioned is I live on an island and the dealership is across a bridge and didn’t answer my three calls lol
no oem as in not oem sparkplugs? Get oem because they are pre-indexed.
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May 22, 2025 | 05:31 AM
  #43  
I do not know where or if MB puts fuel pressure test points.

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May 22, 2025 | 06:53 AM
  #44  
I once had a w212 V8 where I needed to get the gas out of the tank. Car totaled. There was a schrader valve on the fuel rail. I remove the valve with a stem remover and hosed it another car. Perhaps there's something similar here.
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May 23, 2025 | 05:48 AM
  #45  
could be on end as I saw pic from another engine and that i where they had it.

For sure it will have a cap over it to protect.
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May 23, 2025 | 02:06 PM
  #46  
Quote: could be on end as I saw pic from another engine and that i where they had it.

For sure it will have a cap over it to protect.
Do you mind circling it?
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May 24, 2025 | 06:11 AM
  #47  
cannot remember thread to find pic.


.
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May 24, 2025 | 12:33 PM
  #48  
Quote: cannot remember thread to find pic.


.
I see, no worries, I guess I will try to look for it.
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May 24, 2025 | 02:10 PM
  #49  
Quote: could be on end as I saw pic from another engine and that i where they had it.

For sure it will have a cap over it to protect.
See the black plastic cap's back in the 1st picture.

https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...ml#post9101759
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May 24, 2025 | 02:11 PM
  #50  
Quote: See the black plastic cap's back in the 1st picture.

https://mbworld.org/forums/glc-class...ml#post9101759
Thanks.
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