Cranks Longer on First Attempt Alwnays
Every time I start my car, after sitting for some time, it takes longer than it should to start. If I shut it off and retry, it's instant. After an hour, it is back to taking longer to start, sometimes up to 7 seconds of cranking. Put a new battery (did the registration) and a new auxiliary battery, as I was getting a message. No other codes exist when I connect it to my scanner. Runs fine and has never not started (yet). At this point, I am thinking fuel pump assembly in the tank and feel as though it is losing its prime or pressure as it sits, not sure if there is a stuck valve or something. First time owning a Benz and I love it, besides this aspect. Took it to a local shop that supposedly works on European stuff, and they noticed it took longer to start, but found nothing on the scanner, and should take it to the dealer. I can do the installation myself if I knew the issue, but I don't want to just start bolting on random parts. It's a 2016, btw, with 147km on it. I can't really hear the pump much, but I'm not sure what to be listening to, and I have pressed the button twice, not starting it, and waiting 30 seconds for the pump to build pressure, but I am getting mixed results.
Has anybody had similar situations?
Thank you very much for reading.
Then once you get running watch how high it goes...
Then turn off and watch gage to see if it stays steady or leaks down.
Sometimes as car sits the fuel system has an internal leak so pressure drops in rail...
This means when you start the fuel pump has to run longer to get pressure up to where i needs to be.
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Then once you get running watch how high it goes...
Then turn off and watch gage to see if it stays steady or leaks down.
Sometimes as car sits the fuel system has an internal leak so pressure drops in rail...
This means when you start the fuel pump has to run longer to get pressure up to where i needs to be.
What would be the cause of the fuel pressure loss? Could it be any part of the fuel system? Or a particular part, like the fuel pump assembly, is more likely to be it?




On one of my cars, it's a check valve. On another, it's a check valve contained in the fuel pump. Both of those are VW's. Both also have a over-pressure relief valve that can be weak.
May not apply to a GLC, but that's the gist of troubleshooting.
Need the correct procedures.
- Fuel injector
- Fuel Lines
- Pressure regulator(s)
- Fuel pump
- anything really between pump and injectors.
Then once you get running watch how high it goes...
Then turn off and watch gage to see if it stays steady or leaks down.
Sometimes as car sits the fuel system has an internal leak so pressure drops in rail...
This means when you start the fuel pump has to run longer to get pressure up to where i needs to be.
On one of my cars, it's a check valve. On another, it's a check valve contained in the fuel pump. Both of those are VW's. Both also have a over-pressure relief valve that can be weak.
May not apply to a GLC, but that's the gist of troubleshooting.
Need the correct procedures.
I want to ask OP: Does the long crank still happen when you have foot off the brake and press the ignition button twice (so basically key in position 2 in essence) into accessory mode, then, wait like 10 seconds for the fuel pump to do its thing, Once done, foot on the brake while still in accessory mode, and press the ignition button again, does it still do long cranks? What is the ambient temperature? Does it do long cranks only when in cold temperatures or when the outside temperature is warm as well? If possible also record a video of the cranking.
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Sounds like a concern for sure.
I want to ask OP: Does the long crank still happen when you have foot off the brake and press the ignition button twice (so basically key in position 2 in essence) into accessory mode, then, wait like 10 seconds for the fuel pump to do its thing, Once done, foot on the brake while still in accessory mode, and press the ignition button again, does it still do long cranks? What is the ambient temperature? Does it do long cranks only when in cold temperatures or when the outside temperature is warm as well? If possible also record a video of the cranking.
But hypothetically let’s say it’s losing fuel pressure, what is there to be done, if no Schrader valve, is it needing a scanner to watch the pressure after the engine is turned off? As the individual mention earlier there is a lot of points it could leak at and maybe too difficult for a non-technician like myself. There wouldn’t happen to be spots to plug in a gauge and watch it manually?
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But hypothetically let’s say it’s losing fuel pressure, what is there to be done, if no Schrader valve, is it needing a scanner to watch the pressure after the engine is turned off? As the individual mention earlier there is a lot of points it could leak at and maybe too difficult for a non-technician like myself. There wouldn’t happen to be spots to plug in a gauge and watch it manually?
Sounds like a concern for sure.
I want to ask OP: Does the long crank still happen when you have foot off the brake and press the ignition button twice (so basically key in position 2 in essence) into accessory mode, then, wait like 10 seconds for the fuel pump to do its thing, Once done, foot on the brake while still in accessory mode, and press the ignition button again, does it still do long cranks? What is the ambient temperature? Does it do long cranks only when in cold temperatures or when the outside temperature is warm as well? If possible also record a video of the cranking.
there’s the link, hopefully brings u to the short. For the starter do you mean just like the physical condition of it?






