GLC Class (X253) Produced 2016-2022

2020 GLC300 Battery

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Old Dec 20, 2025 | 06:27 PM
  #26  
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'21 AMG53 wDPP & ARC, 19 GLC300 - Former-03 C240,2 ML BlueTecs,20 GLE450 E-ABC,15 Cayenne D,17 Macan
Originally Posted by TN_GLC300
More good information ^^^^^^^ except for leaving a battery on a 'Maintainer' for any length of time. Yes, a Maintainer will sense when the voltage drops to a level where the charger will kick in again and top off the battery. The problem with this is with a wet cell LA battery, the electrolyte starts boiling again trying to maintain a constant state of full charge. Every time this happens, your battery is losing more electrolyte killing your battery. With our AGM batteries, I'm not quite sure what the behavior is because AGM batteries are constructed differently. Although I suspect the behavior is the same just in another form. Also, if your 'Maintainer' is not specifically designed for AGM batteries, the AGM battery will never reach a full charge as the charging voltages are different than regular LA batteries. No battery likes to be in a constant state of full charge. Just like your cell phone. The recommended state of charge for your cell phone is between 40-80% and to never leave it plugged into the charger. Yes, I know cell phone batteries are a different chemistry but the common theme here is a constant state of full charge for any battery chemistry is detrimental to the longevity of the battery. Everyone's mileage will vary but I've killed more batteries trying to leave them in a constant state of full charge than just topping them off occasionally. Maintainers have there uses but should never be left on for any length of time. Especially if they are left unattended.

If you want to significantly extend the life of your Wet cell/AGM LA Battery, do the following:

1. Never run any battery below 25% capacity. Doing so will permanently harm your battery.

2. At least once a month, depending on car model, connect a smart battery charger specific for the chemistry battery you are trying to charge. In other words, you need an AGM specific smart battery charger. I recommend the CTEK or NOCO smart chargers. They have an AGM specific switch on them. Batteries like to be charged with low current. I use the CTEK 5.0 as my primary charger. Yes, it takes longer but I've found >10A chargers can and often overcharge and confuse battery termination algorithms. Low current smart chargers take longer but are much safer and offer a more thorough charge in my experience. They also are less likely to boil off your electrolyte like higher current smart chargers will. The temperature of your environment needs to be between 60F-80F. I know for a lot of folks this will be a problem but batteries do not like extremes on either end of the scale.

I live in a rural area and my GLC is stored in a covered garage so the car is constantly trying to find signal and stay connected to the cloud draining my battery. My original battery will pretty much be in a deep state of discharge in 4-5 days if I don't drive it or recharge it. My GLC is not my principle driver so it's easier for me to just top it off every 4-5 days with my charger. I never leave the charger connected for more than 24-hrs after it finishes charging. My original battery is just over 5 years old and showing no signs of degradation. For those who use there GLC's daily or more often, just top your battery off once a month with a smart charger and you should get 5-7 years from your battery easily no matter who makes it. I also recommend you let your car sit undriven for 12-hrs for your battery to reach a resting/steady state before charging. Trying to charge the battery right after driving it will usually give a smart charger a false sense of battery charge.
I disagree with many things in your post. I bolded some of them.
Basically, for best care, leave a smart charger (maintainer) attached at all times. I'm not familiar with the NOCO algorithm, but the CTEK varies current and voltage to provide the best changing profile.

We don't have any pure wet cell batteries in our cars - the Lead Acid ones are VRLA (Valve regulated lead acid), so electrolyte loss only happens with a runaway charger. A certain amount of "boiling" is necessary for equalizing stratification, so a LA battery is not fully charged without it. It's minimal unless your charger is Dumb or Defective. But again we used to have VRLAs, but only in older cars. Not now.

Your analogy to cell phone batteries doesn't apply, because we don't have 12v lithium batteries. VRLA's and AGM's like it best when fully charged, and begin deteriorating about 12.1 volts state of charge.

The CTEK, if left attached at all times, will let the charge dip to a threshold, then Pulse to bring to full charge. It also does a periodic pulse/desulfation according to its internal algorithm, which in itself may be more valuable than maintaining full charge, but that periodic pulsing is lost if you don't leave the maintainer attached 100% of the time.
Pulsing eliminates sulfation.

You note that your original battery will pretty much be in a deep state of discharge in 4-5 days if I don't drive it or recharge it. I believe your practice is actually harming your battery. My eight-year-old battery hasn't shown that status, even after 3-4 weeks off the charger.

Your final comment about waiting until the battery reaches its resting voltage applies to taking an accurate reading, but not for attaching smart chargers. They read and assess, but don't begin charging until it senses lower voltage. At which time the algorithm determines what voltage/current to apply.

For best care, hook up your CTEK, leave it, and don't try to second guess it.
Those darn things are really Smart.
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Old Dec 21, 2025 | 11:46 AM
  #27  
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Folks will make up there own minds if they want to leave a piece of electronics hooked up indefinitely and unattended to something that can explode. Battery chargers and batteries fail all the time. They are not bullet proof. All we can do is share our experiences and what has worked for them. My approach has worked for me for many years with different battery chemistries. It's not the only method but I will say that if you value Safety, never leave anything connected to a device that can explode for any length of time. Especially to a battery that is questionable or has any appreciable amount of age on it. 'Those darn things are really Smart' . . . . . until they are not.
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Old Feb 13, 2026 | 09:02 AM
  #28  
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From: CT
'21 GLC 300, '13 C300 Sport
After tiring of the frequent recharging, failed startups in the morning.... got a new battery - Diehard H7 AGM Platinum...local Euro shop registered it for free, and all seems to be back to normal. Start/Stop functional properly, battery status now always showing as 'fully charged' in app. Of course now the temperatures have now risen into the 30s, and the cold snap for weeks in the single digits brought out the signs of a dying ~4-5 yr old battery.

Last edited by arocarty; Feb 13, 2026 at 09:04 AM.
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