2020 GLC300 Battery




If you want to significantly extend the life of your Wet cell/AGM LA Battery, do the following:
1. Never run any battery below 25% capacity. Doing so will permanently harm your battery.
2. At least once a month, depending on car model, connect a smart battery charger specific for the chemistry battery you are trying to charge. In other words, you need an AGM specific smart battery charger. I recommend the CTEK or NOCO smart chargers. They have an AGM specific switch on them. Batteries like to be charged with low current. I use the CTEK 5.0 as my primary charger. Yes, it takes longer but I've found >10A chargers can and often overcharge and confuse battery termination algorithms. Low current smart chargers take longer but are much safer and offer a more thorough charge in my experience. They also are less likely to boil off your electrolyte like higher current smart chargers will. The temperature of your environment needs to be between 60F-80F. I know for a lot of folks this will be a problem but batteries do not like extremes on either end of the scale.
I live in a rural area and my GLC is stored in a covered garage so the car is constantly trying to find signal and stay connected to the cloud draining my battery. My original battery will pretty much be in a deep state of discharge in 4-5 days if I don't drive it or recharge it. My GLC is not my principle driver so it's easier for me to just top it off every 4-5 days with my charger. I never leave the charger connected for more than 24-hrs after it finishes charging. My original battery is just over 5 years old and showing no signs of degradation. For those who use there GLC's daily or more often, just top your battery off once a month with a smart charger and you should get 5-7 years from your battery easily no matter who makes it. I also recommend you let your car sit undriven for 12-hrs for your battery to reach a resting/steady state before charging. Trying to charge the battery right after driving it will usually give a smart charger a false sense of battery charge.
Basically, for best care, leave a smart charger (maintainer) attached at all times. I'm not familiar with the NOCO algorithm, but the CTEK varies current and voltage to provide the best changing profile.
We don't have any pure wet cell batteries in our cars - the Lead Acid ones are VRLA (Valve regulated lead acid), so electrolyte loss only happens with a runaway charger. A certain amount of "boiling" is necessary for equalizing stratification, so a LA battery is not fully charged without it. It's minimal unless your charger is Dumb or Defective. But again we used to have VRLAs, but only in older cars. Not now.
Your analogy to cell phone batteries doesn't apply, because we don't have 12v lithium batteries. VRLA's and AGM's like it best when fully charged, and begin deteriorating about 12.1 volts state of charge.
The CTEK, if left attached at all times, will let the charge dip to a threshold, then Pulse to bring to full charge. It also does a periodic pulse/desulfation according to its internal algorithm, which in itself may be more valuable than maintaining full charge, but that periodic pulsing is lost if you don't leave the maintainer attached 100% of the time.
Pulsing eliminates sulfation.
You note that your original battery will pretty much be in a deep state of discharge in 4-5 days if I don't drive it or recharge it. I believe your practice is actually harming your battery. My eight-year-old battery hasn't shown that status, even after 3-4 weeks off the charger.
Your final comment about waiting until the battery reaches its resting voltage applies to taking an accurate reading, but not for attaching smart chargers. They read and assess, but don't begin charging until it senses lower voltage. At which time the algorithm determines what voltage/current to apply.
For best care, hook up your CTEK, leave it, and don't try to second guess it.
Those darn things are really Smart.
Last edited by arocarty; Feb 13, 2026 at 09:04 AM.


