Failed differential originally thought to be a rear wheel bearing
I figured I'd share my "recent" issues with my 2017 base model (70K miles). A while back, not sure when, I started hearing what sounded like a failing rear wheel bearing. It was very faint and of course my wife had noticed it (her car)
.It eventually got to the point that things didn't make total sense to me and it was getting quite loud, a whining noise, not a grinding or rumbling. I've only had one wheel bearing failure (rear) in a car in the past, while on a cross country road trip, go figure. It went from nothing to loud grinding/grumbling noise while going in a straight line, turning, etc. The noise got louder with vehicle speed. Anyhow this GLC was not exhibiting the same symptoms. It started only making the noise while turning, left or right, didn't matter. Still thinking it was a wheel bearing I decided to purchase some to determine which side. To make a long store short, the left and right components I tested all sounded the same. Soooo, then I decided to see what the differential sounded like. The differential housing did make a different sound when turning than when going in a straight line.
I eventually got fed up and took it to an independent shop (I refuse to use the dealer unless I have to $$$) to see what their opinion was. Essentially they didn't tell me anything that I didn't know other than confirming my suspicion that something was wrong with the differential. I changed the oil and ran it for several hundred miles but no luck. At this point I was convinced the diff was rapidly going bad.
After researching rebuilding that was a no go, buying a new (remanufactured) from Mercedes...$$$ yikes, I decided to see if I could get a used unit.
After MUCH research and I determined that I found a decent unit on Ebay from a car with the proper diff in it. I spent a lot of time comparing VINs to make sure it would be correct.
Pulled the trigger and bought one for $600 delivered for a 40K mile unit. Showed up nice, pulled the cover off and everything looked in order visually. Cleaned it up internally, installed new carrier (side seals) because it was easy and sealed it back up.
I spent about 10-12hrs over two days in 90F+ temps in my garage removing the old unit and installing the used one. uugghh The whole time in the back of my mind I kept asking "what if it isn't the diff" or "what if the used diff is bad". I'm not new to wrenching as I've been working on our cars forever so this wasn't too bad but there were some challenging areas. I did have a big oil spill and took a bath in the horribly stinky differential oil. YUCK.
Buttoned it back up and took it out for its first trip and YES.......ITS FIXED.....SILENCE. What a relief, saved us a ton of money (for now). It is a used unit and no telling how long it will last but hopefully it will give us another year or so before we move on to another vehicle.
Here is a picture dump if you are curious or maybe it will help someone.
I plan to take the original unit a part but I won't do that until I get more miles on this used one. I want to get the carrier bearings out as it will probably obvious that one of them is/has failed.
Last edited by ArcticWhiteZ51; Jul 28, 2025 at 10:21 AM.




Nice tranny jack. What make?
Do you feel comfortable with wired Chassis Ears, that you can secure the wires and drive for, say, a few days safely?
The wired chassis ears are somewhat of a pain, especially keeping the wiring away from moving or hot parts. I cheaped out as all I needed to do to recreate the symptom was drive around the neighborhood so the velcro straps it comes with, tie wraps and lots of tape did the job. My setup definitely would have worked at high speed. If I wanted or needed to drive it for days I would have considered the wireless.
Rick
I figured I'd share my "recent" issues with my 2017 base model (70K miles). A while back, not sure when, I started hearing what sounded like a failing rear wheel bearing. It was very faint and of course my wife had noticed it (her car)
.It eventually got to the point that things didn't make total sense to me and it was getting quite loud, a whining noise, not a grinding or rumbling. I've only had one wheel bearing failure (rear) in a car in the past, while on a cross country road trip, go figure. It went from nothing to loud grinding/grumbling noise while going in a straight line, turning, etc. The noise got louder with vehicle speed. Anyhow this GLC was not exhibiting the same symptoms. It started only making the noise while turning, left or right, didn't matter. Still thinking it was a wheel bearing I decided to purchase some ChassisEars to determine which side. To make a long store short, the left and right components I tested all sounded the same. Soooo, then I decided to see what the differential sounded like. The differential housing did make a different sound when turning than when going in a straight line.
I eventually got fed up and took it to an independent shop (I refuse to use the dealer unless I have to $$$) to see what their opinion was. Essentially they didn't tell me anything that I didn't know other than confirming my suspicion that something was wrong with the differential. I changed the oil and ran it for several hundred miles but no luck. At this point I was convinced the diff was rapidly going bad.
After researching rebuilding that was a no go, buying a new (remanufactured) from Mercedes...$$$ yikes, I decided to see if I could get a used unit.
After MUCH research and I determined that I found a decent unit on Ebay from a car with the proper diff in it. I spent a lot of time comparing VINs to make sure it would be correct.
Pulled the trigger and bought one for $600 delivered for a 40K mile unit. Showed up nice, pulled the cover off and everything looked in order visually. Cleaned it up internally, installed new carrier (side seals) because it was easy and sealed it back up.
I spent about 10-12hrs over two days in 90F+ temps in my garage removing the old unit and installing the used one. uugghh The whole time in the back of my mind I kept asking "what if it isn't the diff" or "what if the used diff is bad". I'm not new to wrenching as I've been working on our cars forever so this wasn't too bad but there were some challenging areas. I did have a big oil spill and took a bath in the horribly stinky differential oil. YUCK.
Buttoned it back up and took it out for its first trip and YES.......ITS FIXED.....SILENCE. What a relief, saved us a ton of money (for now). It is a used unit and no telling how long it will last but hopefully it will give us another year or so before we move on to another vehicle.
Here is a picture dump if you are curious or maybe it will help someone.
I plan to take the original unit a part but I won't do that until I get more miles on this used one. I want to get the carrier bearings out as it will probably obvious that one of them is/has failed.
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...0be9cd873f.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...e5296ba9a0.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...b0314cadb4.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...472c44b0b1.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...7432fd4bdd.jpg
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...09a3e71872.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...bd84a73e73.jpg
https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...135af0144f.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...c8dc54a193.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...ffcf8ccc69.jpg
https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...72a3cadca1.jpg
That sense of accomplishment when you bolted it back up and hear no more weird noises is such an awesome experience!
Small town MB dealer quoted $4400 (guessing the higher-priced dealer near us would have been about $5,000). Independent German specialist garage quoted $3900. We paid the $3900 and she runs like a top again. I envy your enthusiasm and knowledge to get this done yourself.
Small town MB dealer quoted $4400 (guessing the higher-priced dealer near us would have been about $5,000). Independent German specialist garage quoted $3900. We paid the $3900 and she runs like a top again. I envy your enthusiasm and knowledge to get this done yourself.
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That sense of accomplishment when you bolted it back up and hear no more weird noises is such an awesome experience!
Fluid was changed AFTER the noise at say 69K miles (yes, I think 60 is what Merc suggests). It is a base model with RWD.
Rick
The Best of Mercedes & AMG
Small town MB dealer quoted $4400 (guessing the higher-priced dealer near us would have been about $5,000). Independent German specialist garage quoted $3900. We paid the $3900 and she runs like a top again. I envy your enthusiasm and knowledge to get this done yourself.
I love wrenching and HATE paying people for something I can do. That being said, Merc doesn't make it easy for the do-it-yourself owners AND there are much fewer YouTube videos that can help since most owners don't work on their own cars. You should have seen the guy at the parts counter when I was buying new seals and he asked for the VIN. I said, well, the VIN for the "donor" car at the salvage yard is.....his jaw dropped. LOL
I installed a new differential (better performance gear ratio) in one of my Vettes (2000 5th generation) many years ago on purpose, not because I had too. 20 something years later this old body hurts a little more crawling around on the ground. Here are some pics showing the rear cradle as well as the differential and transmission still mated together along with the torque tube (driveshaft inside). Yes, the transmission is in the back for weight distribution purposes.
Fluid was changed AFTER the noise at say 69K miles (yes, I think 60 is what Merc suggests). It is a base model with RWD.
Rick
I love wrenching and HATE paying people for something I can do. That being said, Merc doesn't make it easy for the do-it-yourself owners AND there are much fewer YouTube videos that can help since most owners don't work on their own cars. You should have seen the guy at the parts counter when I was buying new seals and he asked for the VIN. I said, well, the VIN for the "donor" car at the salvage yard is.....his jaw dropped. LOL
I installed a new differential (better performance gear ratio) in one of my Vettes (2000 5th generation) many years ago on purpose, not because I had too. 20 something years later this old body hurts a little more crawling around on the ground. Here are some pics showing the rear cradle as well as the differential and transmission still mated together along with the torque tube (driveshaft inside). Yes, the transmission is in the back for weight distribution purposes.
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...49f9acabd0.jpg
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbw...989b810ae3.jpg







