2021 GLC300 Engine Mount Replacement
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Joined: Nov 2013
Posts: 157
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From: So Cal
2005 C230 Kompressor Sedan, 2003 CLK55 AMG, 2021 GLC300
2021 GLC300 Engine Mount Replacement
Hello
Posting this because I had a very hard time finding any information for the a GLC 300 Base with regards to part numbers removal etc... Since I just finished maybe this well help someone in the future.
Engine Mount Part Numbers
205-240-08-00 ( Left Side Driver Side)
253-240-18-00 ( Right Side Passenger Side)
Bolt Part # 910105-008014 List was $2.80 each ( you need 6 ) 3 per mount.
Tools
E Torx Sockets E8-E14
MM Sockets 8MM - 13MM
8MM and 13MM ratcheting wrench
Long Extension ( 18" min.) for Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Swivel Socket
The Driver side mount was more expensive $218 my dealer gives me discount so my cost was $174
The Passenger side list for $115 my cost through my dealer was $92.
Why you ask didn't I purchase from FCP Euro or Autohaus and to be honest I went back and forth but part#'s didn't match up trying to cross reference potential superseded numbers I didn't want to deal with hassle and the price wasn't really that much different. It was easier to call my dealer give them my vin and have them give me the correct parts in addition to that my dealer also confirmed that the 3 lower bolts are 1 time use ( Torque to Yield ) do not reuse your old bolts.
Bolt Part # 910105-008014 List was $2.80 each
My process:
I disconnect my battery anytime i'm touching and moving around in the engine bay for safety reason so I advise to do the same. Now I used Rhino Ramps but you can use whatever you normally use just make sure it's secure chock your wheels use jack stands as back up etc...
Lift Vehicle up onto ramps or jacks stands if using a lift than you can go directly to removal of engine mounts.
I jumped back and forth between driver and passenger but im going to describe one at a time.
On the driver side the 3 hex bolts are accessible from up top with the extension for me. The 2 in the front were easy the one in the back I had to use a little force to squeeze between the airbox and fender but with a long extension worked perfectly fine to break the bolt and remove. The Hex bolts are torque to yield and would need to be replaced. The center bolt which is E14 you need to use a swivel and the extension and you should be able to break it free as soon as you do that if you have a cordless ratchet such as a M18 Miluwakee 3/8 it'll fit and you can zip the bolts right up.
Now jump onto the passenger side.
You need to remove the heat shield from the exhaust it's E10 I believe for the top 2 and 10MM for the bottom middle bolt. Once you remove the bolts you can pull the heatshield off it's being held by 3 clips on the top just give it a wiggle it'll come off. Now you'll have better visibility of the bolts on the mount.
Now if you haven't you need to go underneath and remove the splash guards that is held up with 8mm screw/washers. Once you remove that the heat shield that sits on top of the mount has some Torx screws you need to remove from the bottom I believe they where E10 as well but space is tight so I used a 8mm ratchet wrench and removed them.
One you removed those 2 bolts remove the E14 from the center now you should be able to pull the shield it doesn't come out it just allows you to move it for better clearance to remove the 13mm bolts. You can now remove the 2 front bolts pretty easily. The last one which is underneath the heat shield you need to access from the bottom with a 13mm wrench or ratcheting wrench.
Now all the mounts should not have any bolts on them so you can left the engine up slowly with a piece of wood on the jack and lift from oil pan. Now once you have it lifted I removed the mounts from the bottom passenger came out fairly easily. I took it out and put in the new one and put the new hex bolt screws in by hand.
I then went over to the driver side there's a vacuum hose you need to disconnect and the steering shaft. Now there's a particular procedure to disconnect the steering shaft you're supposed to have a tool to hold the steering wheel from moving to prevent damaging the clock spring. I did not have this tool so I took a chance and disconnected the steering shaft via the bayonet plastic sleeve by pushing up and twisting clockwise there's arrows on the plastic sleeve showing the direct to lock and unlock. There's also a few YouTube videos on the bayonet plastic sleeves you can look up to get more clarification. I did not twist/turn my steering shaft just separated and pushed up and pulled down to reconnect very little movement.
Once you disconnect the steering shaft and the vacuum line the driver side mount comes out and you can replace it with the new one, put your new bolts in hand tight.
50Nm is what WIS showed me for torque specs for the bolts so that's what I did for all 4. I did the 3 hex bolts first as best as I could. After that I lowered the engine back down once lowered now you can put on the center E14 bolts and torque to spec as best you can. The driver side was difficult to do because of space but I did my best.
Install your heat shields and enjoy!
I apologize for not providing photos but I thought the write up alone should be somewhat helpful. Now my car doesn't shake like crazy and yes im going to do the transmission mount when it comes it it was out of stock at my dealer and it's fairly in expensive something like $42 for it.
Posting this because I had a very hard time finding any information for the a GLC 300 Base with regards to part numbers removal etc... Since I just finished maybe this well help someone in the future.
Engine Mount Part Numbers
205-240-08-00 ( Left Side Driver Side)
253-240-18-00 ( Right Side Passenger Side)
Bolt Part # 910105-008014 List was $2.80 each ( you need 6 ) 3 per mount.
Tools
E Torx Sockets E8-E14
MM Sockets 8MM - 13MM
8MM and 13MM ratcheting wrench
Long Extension ( 18" min.) for Ratchet
Torque Wrench
Swivel Socket
The Driver side mount was more expensive $218 my dealer gives me discount so my cost was $174
The Passenger side list for $115 my cost through my dealer was $92.
Why you ask didn't I purchase from FCP Euro or Autohaus and to be honest I went back and forth but part#'s didn't match up trying to cross reference potential superseded numbers I didn't want to deal with hassle and the price wasn't really that much different. It was easier to call my dealer give them my vin and have them give me the correct parts in addition to that my dealer also confirmed that the 3 lower bolts are 1 time use ( Torque to Yield ) do not reuse your old bolts.
Bolt Part # 910105-008014 List was $2.80 each
My process:
I disconnect my battery anytime i'm touching and moving around in the engine bay for safety reason so I advise to do the same. Now I used Rhino Ramps but you can use whatever you normally use just make sure it's secure chock your wheels use jack stands as back up etc...
Lift Vehicle up onto ramps or jacks stands if using a lift than you can go directly to removal of engine mounts.
I jumped back and forth between driver and passenger but im going to describe one at a time.
On the driver side the 3 hex bolts are accessible from up top with the extension for me. The 2 in the front were easy the one in the back I had to use a little force to squeeze between the airbox and fender but with a long extension worked perfectly fine to break the bolt and remove. The Hex bolts are torque to yield and would need to be replaced. The center bolt which is E14 you need to use a swivel and the extension and you should be able to break it free as soon as you do that if you have a cordless ratchet such as a M18 Miluwakee 3/8 it'll fit and you can zip the bolts right up.
Now jump onto the passenger side.
You need to remove the heat shield from the exhaust it's E10 I believe for the top 2 and 10MM for the bottom middle bolt. Once you remove the bolts you can pull the heatshield off it's being held by 3 clips on the top just give it a wiggle it'll come off. Now you'll have better visibility of the bolts on the mount.
Now if you haven't you need to go underneath and remove the splash guards that is held up with 8mm screw/washers. Once you remove that the heat shield that sits on top of the mount has some Torx screws you need to remove from the bottom I believe they where E10 as well but space is tight so I used a 8mm ratchet wrench and removed them.
One you removed those 2 bolts remove the E14 from the center now you should be able to pull the shield it doesn't come out it just allows you to move it for better clearance to remove the 13mm bolts. You can now remove the 2 front bolts pretty easily. The last one which is underneath the heat shield you need to access from the bottom with a 13mm wrench or ratcheting wrench.
Now all the mounts should not have any bolts on them so you can left the engine up slowly with a piece of wood on the jack and lift from oil pan. Now once you have it lifted I removed the mounts from the bottom passenger came out fairly easily. I took it out and put in the new one and put the new hex bolt screws in by hand.
I then went over to the driver side there's a vacuum hose you need to disconnect and the steering shaft. Now there's a particular procedure to disconnect the steering shaft you're supposed to have a tool to hold the steering wheel from moving to prevent damaging the clock spring. I did not have this tool so I took a chance and disconnected the steering shaft via the bayonet plastic sleeve by pushing up and twisting clockwise there's arrows on the plastic sleeve showing the direct to lock and unlock. There's also a few YouTube videos on the bayonet plastic sleeves you can look up to get more clarification. I did not twist/turn my steering shaft just separated and pushed up and pulled down to reconnect very little movement.
Once you disconnect the steering shaft and the vacuum line the driver side mount comes out and you can replace it with the new one, put your new bolts in hand tight.
50Nm is what WIS showed me for torque specs for the bolts so that's what I did for all 4. I did the 3 hex bolts first as best as I could. After that I lowered the engine back down once lowered now you can put on the center E14 bolts and torque to spec as best you can. The driver side was difficult to do because of space but I did my best.
Install your heat shields and enjoy!
I apologize for not providing photos but I thought the write up alone should be somewhat helpful. Now my car doesn't shake like crazy and yes im going to do the transmission mount when it comes it it was out of stock at my dealer and it's fairly in expensive something like $42 for it.
