video for Oil Change - 2024 glc300 / M254 motor
#1
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Hi Im new to Mercedes but not working on cars. Just purchased 2024 glc300. I would like information perhpas video on oil change for 2024 glc300 / M254 motor?
im told every 10k. its turbo hybrid so does every 4k makes better sense then every 10K (dealer informed me) ?
my 911 turbo was twice a year or 4k So im not sure.
Any help is much apprereciated
thx Ed
im told every 10k. its turbo hybrid so does every 4k makes better sense then every 10K (dealer informed me) ?
my 911 turbo was twice a year or 4k So im not sure.
Any help is much apprereciated
thx Ed
#2
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All MB four bangers in the past 10 years are related, this video will point you in the right direction.
#3
thank you then same on m254 with isg drive... any thoughts on the 10k oil change (suggested by dealer)? im thinking 3k for the first oil change then every 5k miles there after?? any thoughts on this???
My 911 tt i do every 3 k or twice a year and the turbo sumps on each side need to be drained as well and the oil is put through heat and gets dark..
My 911 tt i do every 3 k or twice a year and the turbo sumps on each side need to be drained as well and the oil is put through heat and gets dark..
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chassis (11-26-2023)
#4
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How long will you drive this car? Lease then dump? Sell after the warranty expires? Or own and drive long term, more than 100k miles?
#6
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10k mile change interval should be fine. If you are aiming for 100k+ miles or 8+ years of ownership, consider 5k change interval.
Beware that MB four bangers have chequered reputations because of a long list of fatal problems. The latest M254 has a reputation for failed cylinder heads. If it happens during the warranty period, there is no financial pain but only inconvenience. Time is money, though.
Something to consider is to dump the GLC after the warranty runs out. Again, 10k oil changes will be sufficient in this scenario.
Beware that MB four bangers have chequered reputations because of a long list of fatal problems. The latest M254 has a reputation for failed cylinder heads. If it happens during the warranty period, there is no financial pain but only inconvenience. Time is money, though.
Something to consider is to dump the GLC after the warranty runs out. Again, 10k oil changes will be sufficient in this scenario.
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#8
All MB four bangers in the past 10 years are related, this video will point you in the right direction.
https://youtu.be/ErLex3UEOEQ?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/ErLex3UEOEQ?feature=shared
#9
Senior Member
This video is for the W206, and it's the same for the X254 as you can imagine
Also, change the oil every 5k miles if you care about your rides. My brother got over 300k miles on his W212 following this good habit.
Also, change the oil every 5k miles if you care about your rides. My brother got over 300k miles on his W212 following this good habit.
#10
This video is for the W206, and it's the same for the X254 as you can imagine
https://youtu.be/L42PBi7R2Mk
Also, change the oil every 5k miles if you care about your rides. My brother got over 300k miles on his W212 following this good habit.
https://youtu.be/L42PBi7R2Mk
Also, change the oil every 5k miles if you care about your rides. My brother got over 300k miles on his W212 following this good habit.
#11
Senior Member
Giovanni, thanks for the video and yes that is exactly like my car but the fellow in the video didn't show how he took the element out of the canister. I cannot get my element out of the canister it is clipped in there and locked. I spent over an hour and a half fiddling with it trying to move it around and it spins but it won't come out. And I'm pretty strong I put the canister in a vise and tried to pull it directly out and move it around, angled it, everything. Thanks for your response.
#12
I completely understand. It's totally bizarre I've put out another feeler on another YouTube channel I also asked that YouTube person that you shared the video for and he came back with saying just pull really hard. But I put the canister in a vise and tried to pull that filter out and I'm pretty strong and I couldn't get it out. it almost feels like there's a check valve or something up in the base of the canister where the filter clips into. I'll let it go for a while and keep researching this.. I'm with you I do the oil every $5,000 with a turbo you really want clean oil in Southern California stop and go nowhere driving.. thanks again
#13
Senior Member
I completely understand. It's totally bizarre I've put out another feeler on another YouTube channel I also asked that YouTube person that you shared the video for and he came back with saying just pull really hard. But I put the canister in a vise and tried to pull that filter out and I'm pretty strong and I couldn't get it out. it almost feels like there's a check valve or something up in the base of the canister where the filter clips into. I'll let it go for a while and keep researching this.. I'm with you I do the oil every $5,000 with a turbo you really want clean oil in Southern California stop and go nowhere driving.. thanks again
254-180-24-00
#14
#15
Curious is there a special tool for inside the oil filter (to remove the element) ? or do i just pull the element out ?
Keep in mind this is for a 2024 M254 4 cyl with ISG/hybrid drive.
Thanks for any help
Keep in mind this is for a 2024 M254 4 cyl with ISG/hybrid drive.
Thanks for any help
#16
Hello, mine is a 2024 GLC 300 mild hybrid. It is a basic 4-cylinder turbo 2.0. it has a elongated canister to house the oil filter element. My problem is the element is clipped in somehow and not able to come out of the canister. That's my only problem and I don't want to break anything by forcing it. Thank you if you have any suggestions or are you asking a question?
#17
Then this is confirmed a tool is required. I need tool 254-180-24-00 to successfully release the element in the filter when doing a oil change.
Curious who has the best price ?
Curious who has the best price ?
#18
No! You need to read the messages fully. The problem has not been resolved. That part number that someone else threw out there is completely wrong it's a whole canister assembly it's like $250. Completely unrelated to the problem that I am having.
#20
Well thanks for the reply, I guess I need to make this a lot more clearer. When I remove the canister, the element is inside the canister like it should be. In the normal world you would just pull the element out of the canister. The element is refusing to come out of the canister because it feels like it's clicked into something up in the base of the canister. I would take pictures but that means opening it all up again and I'm not going to do that until the next oil change. I'm just trying to see if anyone else out there has had the same experience where the element, I repeat the element is stuck within the canister. The canister comes out fine. Thank you all
#21
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2015 E 250, 1999 BMW M Roadster, 1939 International Harvester, 2023 GLC
I see now, quite a head scratcher, I have this set up on my E and the filter comes out on the lid & plastic tube assy. It is kind of snug on this plastic tube but not crazy tight. We have a new 23 GLC but have yet to change the oil. I hope a special tool is not needed. I plan to change the GLC in the summer at around 5 k miles. Keep us posted
#22
I see now, quite a head scratcher, I have this set up on my E and the filter comes out on the lid & plastic tube assy. It is kind of snug on this plastic tube but not crazy tight. We have a new 23 GLC but have yet to change the oil. I hope a special tool is not needed. I plan to change the GLC in the summer at around 5 k miles. Keep us posted
#25