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Note that the instruction for releasing the electronic parking brake on the rear calipers doesn't appear until about 7:30 in the video.
A few other things that might not be specifically mentioned in one or more tutorials:
You do not need to deactivate the rear electronic parking brake to replace the front brakes.
When replacing the rear brakes, be certain to use wheel chocks on both sides of at least one front tire (usually the one diagonal from the wheel you are servicing).
On the rear brakes, pull back the rubber sleeves covering the guide rods and lubricate the rods with silicone grease.
The retainer pins on the front brakes drive out from the inside of the wheel well: the pins on the front brakes are held in place by a thin wire retainer: remove the wire retainer before attempting to drive out the pins.
Take pictures of things before you remove them, or immediately after you remove them, to remind yourself of the proper orientation when re-installing.
There is a brake pad wear indicator only on one side of the front and rear axle. If the pads have not worn down to the wear indicator, the indicator may be cleaned and reused. New indicators are only a couple of dollars, and some pads are supplied with a new indicator.
You must remove two torx bolts that hold the wiring harness for the front wear indicator in order to remove the front caliper.
I found a good tip from Chris Fixx: Before compressing the caliper pistons, attach a rubber/silicon tube to the bleed nipple and run the tube to a catch bottle, crack open the bleed nipple, and allow the burnt brake fluid to escape out the nipple into the bleeder bottle instead of forcing old fluid back upstream into the brake line. Remember to tighten the bleed nipple before removing the tube, and check the brake fluid reservoir under the engine hood to see if it needs to be topped up. You should only lose a few CCs of fluid this way.
Compressing the front pistons is a bit fussy because when you press one piston backward, the opposite piston wants to move forward. I found it necessary to press and hold the top piston on one side with a large screwdriver, then with my free hand press the bottom piston on the same side. Insert that brake pad, then repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the rotor.
Wear a dust mask when brushing or blowing the brake dust out of the calipers. Brake pads no longer contain asbestos, but the dust is very fine and lingers in the air.
If your new pads do not already have the anti-rattle clips installed, use the old pads as a template for installing them. On the front pads the anti-rattle clips are symmetrical on either side of the rotor.
My car came from the factory with anti-squeal shims installed between the piston and pad. I cleaned and reused mine, noting the orientation of the upward facing arrow stamped on each shim.
There will be rub marks inside the calipers where the brake pads slide against the caliper. Apply brake pad grease (I use ATE) to the four corners of the brake pads on those contact points.
Note that the instruction for releasing the electronic parking brake on the rear calipers doesn't appear until about 7:30 in the video.
A few other things that might not be specifically mentioned in one or more tutorials:
You do not need to deactivate the rear electronic parking brake to replace the front brakes.
When replacing the rear brakes, be certain to use wheel chocks on both sides of at least one front tire (usually the one diagonal from the wheel you are servicing).
On the rear brakes, pull back the rubber sleeves covering the guide rods and lubricate the rods with silicone grease.
The retainer pins on the front brakes drive out from the inside of the wheel well: the pins on the front brakes are held in place by a thin wire retainer: remove the wire retainer before attempting to drive out the pins.
Take pictures of things before you remove them, or immediately after you remove them, to remind yourself of the proper orientation when re-installing.
There is a brake pad wear indicator only on one side of the front and rear axle. If the pads have not worn down to the wear indicator, the indicator may be cleaned and reused. New indicators are only a couple of dollars, and some pads are supplied with a new indicator.
You must remove two torx bolts that hold the wiring harness for the front wear indicator in order to remove the front caliper.
I found a good tip from Chris Fixx: Before compressing the caliper pistons, attach a rubber/silicon tube to the bleed nipple and run the tube to a catch bottle, crack open the bleed nipple, and allow the burnt brake fluid to escape out the nipple into the bleeder bottle instead of forcing old fluid back upstream into the brake line. Remember to tighten the bleed nipple before removing the tube, and check the brake fluid reservoir under the engine hood to see if it needs to be topped up. You should only lose a few CCs of fluid this way.
Compressing the front pistons is a bit fussy because when you press one piston backward, the opposite piston wants to move forward. I found it necessary to press and hold the top piston on one side with a large screwdriver, then with my free hand press the bottom piston on the same side. Insert that brake pad, then repeat the procedure on the opposite side of the rotor.
Wear a dust mask when brushing or blowing the brake dust out of the calipers. Brake pads no longer contain asbestos, but the dust is very fine and lingers in the air.
If your new pads do not already have the anti-rattle clips installed, use the old pads as a template for installing them. On the front pads the anti-rattle clips are symmetrical on either side of the rotor.
My car came from the factory with anti-squeal shims installed between the piston and pad. I cleaned and reused mine, noting the orientation of the upward facing arrow stamped on each shim.
There will be rub marks inside the calipers where the brake pads slide against the caliper. Apply brake pad grease (I use ATE) to the four corners of the brake pads on those contact points.
I purchased this jacking block from Reverse Logic - works great for 2018 GLC and 2014 SLK. Reverse Logic jacking block Reverse Logic jacking block end view
nothing specific, literally a square chunk of 2x4...
In the past, I used a piece of wood as well.
Last time the wood slipped off the jack and jack almost damaged my side skirt.
That's why I'm looking for a jack pad that will fit securely in the MB jack adapter.
Thanks.
Corvette Grand Sport, GMC Denali, 2018 GLC 43 AMG SUV
I have a 2018 GLC 43 that has approximately 20K on it. At this point, I'm really tired of continually washing the wheels due to brake pad debris. Would you please share what brand of ceramic pads you went with and how many miles you have put on them etc. I purchased the car new and really enjoy it.
I just took mine in to the dealer because the wear sensor started coming on at 30,000km - still about 5mm left on the rear pads. Dealer bridged out the sensor so it doesnt come on everytime I start driving. He Reckons I have at least 5000km left, I'll just keep an eye on them and replace at next service in Dec if necessary
Just picked up a 2020 GLC 43. Already seeing brake dust on rears after using lane assist. I would like to swap all the pads out for ceramic but can't find any. Went to brakeworld website as suggested above. It is the most worthless website I have ever used. Keeps switching vehicle to kia soul..................LOL. Called EBS for red stuffs and they don't have them for a 2020 yet. Anyone find and ceramic pads for 2020 43 yet?
My 2018 GLC43 only has 21,000 mi and that check brake pad warning has come on. Weird that the brake light on the instrument cluster comes on and off from time to time too. I checked the brake reservoir, it's about half. I haven't taken the wheels off to check but the rears seem to still have a big chunk left. It's a little difficult making a visual on the fronts. Does anyone know what % or mm is left when that sensor comes on? I'm assuming that the stealership would try to jack me although IMO this is premature wear. Will probably add some brake fluid for now and change the pads in about a month. Trying to get some dot 4+ fluid online. Did you guys order the Akebono ceramics with a new sensor?
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
