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So "baseline" was 398hp? Was this at the engine or wheels? 400 seems to be a lot (if awd at the wheels) for a baseline with no other mods....or was this done with your upgraded downpipes?
Stock firmware with catted downpipes, K&N filters and intercooller
Stock firmware with catted downpipes, K&N filters and intercooller
For a stage 2 setup, as you have, minus a free flowing intake setup... you are in the right ball park if you are seeing 440whp (not engine hp). I would like to see dynos and mod lists for others that are seeing more than this on the same setup as you. Also, does anyone have 1/4, 60-100, 60-130 numbers to compare?
Stock firmware with the stock intake, exhaust, IC, etc would probably give you a more accurate picture of what you are seeing for gains. I would rock what you have now and see what kind of times you can get from it unless the detonation issues are real and pulling timing. What target boost levels are you at?
North America uses AKI index ( ron + mon ) \ 2 for the fuels at pump station so your 98-100 ron supposed to be our local 92-94 AKI which is considered a premium+ fuel and best available at the local pumps. Fuel quality varies big time even across developed countries so if you live at some rural area and considering how corrupt your regulatory and retail institutions are i wouldnt trust declared numbers. Since you have logger to see how many degs ecu pulls try some other pumps around, maybe u can find better fuel and maybe ask EC to drop your tune to 91 grade to have some gap for crappy fuel batch tolerance. I live in Canada and pretty much any 91-92 from US is better than our most premium 94, i can do extra 30-40 km per tank and engine makes more power with US fuel, its really funny coz i tried all the local pumps and difference is still there despite the fact that a lot of our fuel is imported from US.. They either cut it with ethanol or with moose pee.. i dunno.
And yeah, get the base line to see the delta, all those numbers are relative and vary from dyno to dyno, sea level, etc
you are in the right ball park if you are seeing 440whp (not engine hp).
My primary concern is detonation. As for the numbers, I'd prefer 450hp/680nm, but this is irrelevant
Originally Posted by Serge81
North America uses AKI index ( ron + mon ) \ 2 for the fuels at pump station so your 98-100 ron supposed to be our local 92-94 AKI
Well, I gave Eurocharged all the info I had about our fuel.
You're absoultely right, the fuel quality varies from pump to pump. I always use the fuel from our best supplier, there is simply nothing better on market. So I need a tune which will work with this real-life type of fuel, not an 'ideal' one...
Another way is to get a pack of octane boosters, but I don't want to use them.
For starters.. dont play the numbers game, many many ppl just underscore and feel disappointed. Best and most satisfying approach would be something like do you enjoy your car after the tune or not. Im in this game for 10+ yrs and this kitchen isnt really clean. Many tuners cheat with numbers on the dyno or just use happy numbers dynos to produce those advertised figures and since the whole process is really complicated its easy to start pointing fingers around and blame fuel or boost leak or magnetic storms for getting low #. All u need to see if you got a delta youve paid for, base line is needed for that.
And as for detonation, all the modern ECUs have adaptive knock control and rely on it heavily, they constantly listen to the knock sensors to adjust timing in a real time and dont even have any base ignition tables and ign retard allowance tables we had in happy 1990th-200xth MAP based tunes. So its mostly some target values and its either reaches it or pulls some in case of knock event so ECU will not allow detonation to occur. Its a lil more complicated and u cant just crank up target values and rely on those built in safety algos to fix your bad calibration but you should be safe even with subpar fuel. Octane boosters isnt a good idea, those arent safe for your fuel supply system. Just get real and dont push that engine over the limit. When tuner makes a cal for daily driven engines he should never keep em on the edge, once peak power reached he should roll it back a lil for longevity and reliability and some tolerance for wear and tear and not so good fuel fill etc . And lets remember that some engines are beefier than others, say 63 handcrafted and overengineered one and can hold much more boost and abuse than regular mass produced 43 so i wouldnt go over +15% on that one. M276 debuted as NA and is already pushed by adding boost so be reasonable with your demands.
I'm not trying to stir the pot or judge any viewpoint as more valid than any other, but what I will say is everyone's car/SUV/truck/bike passion and motivation is different, and it usually seems to have nothing to do w/money saved, retained, or made. TBH, I think I'd be bored out of my gourd if I had access to every single thing I'd ever wanted or dreamed of in vehicles exactly as I want them
Making it my own, whatever that means, is most of the fun IMO.
Sounds like exactly what OP is doing and exploring? This is one of the more interesting threads on here right now. I personally want to see how far this can go
**** YEAH! brother -- fellow 21'GLC43 here . first off, gr8 choice on picking this model. we're arguably able to enjoy more performance out of our model in contrast to the heavy power the 63 brings--- this is with respect to every-day driving. i fully support the extra boOOST -- i genuinely think the GLC43 might be able to make a safe MAX 550HP (without bending the rods) given the proper setup (ecu / cpc stage 2 / intake, downpipe at the minimum). BUT AGAIN, it all depends on the DRIVER.... do you wanna be the FASTEST CAR EVER?? headsup! you'll never be LOL.
point is: who cares! LOL it's all just fun! especially when you genuinely love your vehicle & it means something to you -- it's nice for it to have a characteristic. like "OP's 43 family car thats BOOSTed for an incredible drive home from work" LOLOLOLOL MUCH LOVE EVERYONE BE SAFE
Hi guys.
Recently I purchased an ECU tune from Eurocharged, along with CPC tune, which is required for FL cars.
My car is GLC 43 AMG 2020. Mods:
- Sownpipes with sport cats (400-cell by Gesi)
- Custom exhaust
- Intercooler upgrade by Logos Engineering
Today I went to a reliable local workshop to make a dyno test.
Results are below.
Edit: looks like we used an incompatible fuel, so Eurocharged installed an updated tune. I'll update the post when I have new dyno results. Edit 2: Final results - ~440hp, 720nm. But look at the pulling numbers below...
Final result after spending a few hours on dyno
hey, what are you using to data logging? I think in getting knock after my eurocharged tune as well... think I can feel it.
02-11-2022, 11:33 AM
**** YEAH! brother -- fellow 21'GLC43 here 
. first off, gr8 choice on picking this model. 
we're arguably able to enjoy more performance out of our model in contrast to the heavy power the 63 brings--- this is with respect to every-day driving. 
i fully support the extra boOOST -- i genuinely think the GLC43 might be able to make a safe MAX 550HP (without bending the rods) 
given the proper setup (ecu / cpc stage 2 / intake, downpipe at the minimum). BUT AGAIN, it all depends on the DRIVER.... do you wanna be the FASTEST CAR EVER?? headsup! you'll never be LOL.
especially when you genuinely love your vehicle & it means something to you -- it's nice for it to have a characteristic. like "OP's 43 family car thats BOOSTed for an incredible drive home from work" 
LOLOLOLOL MUCH LOVE EVERYONE BE SAFE 
