My 2020 AMG 43 has hit 20,000 miles (I don't drive a lot). I skipped Service A, but I'm due for Service B. However, looking at the list of what they do it seems like I can easily do it myself? This stuff all seems simple.

• Synthetic motor oil replacement and oil filter change (I get my oil changed every year, or roughly 3,500 miles simply because oil gets old)
• Brake fluid exchange to maintain stopping power (I can check this myself and top off as needed, yeah?)
• Cabin dust/combination filter replacement for air quality (I mean, I guess I could do this myself but it isn't all that important)
• Fluid level checks and corrections based on factory guidelines (I just put new coolant in because it was low. Transmission fluid I can check, and power steering fluid shouldn't need changing ever from what I've read. Plus, the car tells you when things are low anyway.)
• Tire inflation check and correction (yeah, okay, I think I can handle putting air in my tires lol)
• Brake component inspection (I can't do this myself, but at 20,000 miles and with no squeaking do I really need this?)
• Resetting the maintenance counter (Amazing that they sell this as a 'service')

Anyone think I'm crazy for believing it's ridiculous to pay a private shop to do this? I don't ever go to the dealership for too many reasons to list.

 

B service specifies brake fluid flush and replacement, not just a fluid level check. It's not a difficult procedure, but does require special equipment to do it correctly. Biggest problem is disposal of the old fluid -- it's nasty corrosive stuff.

 

I'll put a plug in for the cabin filter (P/N 2548301402) , it may seem trivial, but its not trivial to replace it as it is extremely easy to get to (compared to my GLA) just pop the cover off and replace. If you are not driving all that much which it seems, then I'd just give it a visual inspection and a sniff test. if it smells mildewy or of Elderberries then get rid of it ASAP.

On another note what special items would be required for the brake fluid replacement? Also isn't the bleeding in process of the fluid change rather complex?

 

There are three methods for flushing brake fluid. The least desirable is the 2-guy method where 1 guy pumps the brake and the 2 guy manages the bleed valve -- not convenient or fool-proof. The next method is a pistol extractor that pulls fluid out at each bleed valve. Some people like that method. The MB WIS/ASRA procedure specifies the pressure bottle at the brake fluid reservoir, which is the method I use. This requires a bottle such as the one made by Motive and the correct size adaptor to fit your fluid reservoir (about $100 -- see https://www.motiveproducts.com/colle...49dcHKgE3NKWtZ). The brake system fluid capacity is generally around 1 liter, but you need 2 liters so you don't accidentally pump air into the system (you need to keep the pressure bottle adequately filled). There are instructions provided with the Motive kit and plenty of YT videos. Fluid disposal can be a problem -- auto stores that recycle oil usually won't take brake fluid. I buy the oil spill absorbing stuff at one of the auto stores, fill a cheap aluminum roast pan with some of it, and pour the old brake fluid in. The nasty part of the fluid will evaporate. Google what to do with the residue. Take your time and don't rush -- you don't want to spill any brake fluid anywhere as it's corrosive. Buy a couple bottles of rubbing alcohol to clean-up with. You'll want to make sure there's no old fluid left in the pressure bottle and hose, as it will absorb water and you'll contaminate your brake system on your next flush.

 

Checking the brake fluid is not as simple as looking at it's level. I suggest that you purchase a brake fluid moisture meter. They're relatively cheap...under $20. Stick the probe into the brake fluid reservoir and read what the device says. Mine will flash red if the moisture is above the recommended level for the DOT type of fluid you set the device for. If the meter does not show too much moisture, then you don't have to do anything. If the device shows borderline or above the allowed moisture, then you will need to change the fluid. I recommend buying a pressure device that you can pump by hand, or if you have a compressor, use compressed air. Then suck out as much brake fluid as you can from the reservoir and refill it with fresh fluid, then flush the brake system with clean fluid using the machine I mentioned.
As for the cabin and intake filters, I recommend you get them from FCPEuro since you'll only have to purchase them once, and every one after that is free.
For the brakes, you can inspect them to see how much pad is left in comparison to the sensor that is embedded into it. If the pad is getting close to the sensor, schedule a pad swap in the near future. If not, let it go till next inspection.
Also don't forget about washer fluid refill, tire tread depth, inspection of hoses and belts, throttle linkage inspection and lubrication if necessary, Inspect and lube door, hood and sunroof tracks, inspect battery and terminals, and wipers front and rear.
I made myself a checkllist in Word and printed it out and attached it to a clipboard so I can write all these measurements down. Then I enter them into an Excel spreadsheet so I can identify trends. Remember, a Mercedes will last longer if you maintain it....

 

Hello,

Of course you can do a service B by yourself. But you should really do the service and not just pretend.

You need to change the oil and filter. You should change the brake fluid - not just look at it. As mentioned, flushing the brake fluid is not difficult and after 5 years it’s time to do it. While the wheels are off to change the brake fluid you can inspect the brake pads and rotors. If the pads are more than 75% worn it’s time to change them. While the cabin filter isn’t a ‘must do’ it should be done too Don’t forget to check your wiper blades, tire wear, engine condition, etc.

Good luck,
Barry