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I try to diagnostic the issue of delay when engine starts.
Basically I can see the positive terminal connect to the limiter then limiter connect to alternator + starter. Also a sensor is inside of the limiter.
I wonder if the limiter fails will lead to no battery charge and cannot start engine ?
It seem like both alternator and starter connect to battery via the limiter. However the alternator also has voltage regulator why it still need the limiter ?
90 is the limiter
420 is cable which connect to alternator and starter.
That looks like a high amperage fusible link. It is there to protect the vehicle from a battery short circuit that could start a fire. I have them on my boat between the batteries and the engine. Not sure it would have anything to do with delayed starting.
The diagram embossed on the case shows two diodes, one in series with possibly a resistor (which could be the serpentine metal device) and in parallel a second diode. Both diodes have a switch contact in parallel with them.
When these switches are open, the diodes allow charging current to enter the battery, but don't allow current to flow the opposite direction to the starter. The switches are controlled with signals at the 3 pin connector with the labels "Status", "50" and "31" It's possible if the signals at this 3 pin connector are being delayed, the switches would be delayed closing, and thus current to the starter would be delayed. Do you have a volt-ohmmeter that you can use to check the operation of the 3 pin signals and the voltage at the screw terminals when you attempt starting?
The diagram embossed on the case shows two diodes, one in series with possibly a resistor (which could be the serpentine metal device) and in parallel a second diode. Both diodes have a switch contact in parallel with them.
When these switches are open, the diodes allow charging current to enter the battery, but don't allow current to flow the opposite direction to the starter. The switches are controlled with signals at the 3 pin connector with the labels "Status", "50" and "31" It's possible if the signals at this 3 pin connector are being delayed, the switches would be delayed closing, and thus current to the starter would be delayed. Do you have a volt-ohmmeter that you can use to check the operation of the 3 pin signals and the voltage at the screw terminals when you attempt starting?
Yes I have. I will check it. That is very useful information.
One thing I do not understand here.no 2 is look like the cable going to starter. That mean the alternator will be no 1. It going directly to charge battery. Is that correct?
Your photo above seems not to agree with the parts diagram in your opening post. The parts diagram shows the current limiter 90 connected to the battery and the cable 420 connected to the second terminal of the current limiter, and no cable connected directly to the battery. Your photo shows the cable connected directly to the battery at 1 rather than at 2. Are there two cables, one connected at your red circled 1 and another connected at red circled 2?
Your photo above seems not to agree with the parts diagram in your opening post. The parts diagram shows the current limiter 90 connected to the battery and the cable 420 connected to the second terminal of the current limiter, and no cable connected directly to the battery. Your photo shows the cable connected directly to the battery at 1 rather than at 2. Are there two cables, one connected at your red circled 1 and another connected at red circled 2?
yes 2 cables, one connects to 1 and one connect to 2. The one to 2 is starter for sure. The 1st one should be alternator I think. I guess the 1st diagram not correct or they mix up 2 cable somehow. Anyways I replace ld the limiter already. Let see how it goes in next day.
yes 2 cables, one connects to 1 and one connect to 2. The one to 2 is starter for sure. The 1st one should be alternator I think. I guess the 1st diagram not correct or they mix up 2 cable somehow. Anyways I replace ld the limiter already. Let see how it goes in next day.
The part number A0009061505 returns a variety of descriptions -- current sensor, battery fuse, and current limiter. Clearly it's having an identity crisis (lol).
The part number A0009061505 returns a variety of descriptions -- current sensor, battery fuse, and current limiter. Clearly it's having an identity crisis (lol).
correct. Also now I think it is may be just bad starter. Leave it for now until it become worst or easy to reproduce the symtom. Now it happens 1 a days so very hard to debug.
correct. Also now I think it is may be just bad starter. Leave it for now until it become worst or easy to reproduce the symtom. Now it happens 1 a days so very hard to debug.
Found the issue, The ground cable of engine and car body was not connect properly.
If you have a battery sensor device at your starter battery's negative terminal, check the continuity across it. Also check the high amp fuses connected to the battery's positive terminal.
If you have a battery sensor device at your starter battery's negative terminal, check the continuity across it. Also check the high amp fuses connected to the battery's positive terminal.
[img alt="Thanks for your reply!
This is the picture of my battery what am I supposed to be doing? Can you show me where I should put the probes and what numbers I shoud expect?
(p.s the negative connection is off)
"]https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_20250522_173953_28292032b13671a467d5fce04fca1c 2ee95f5ce6.jpg[/img] Thanks for your reply! This is the picture of my battery what am I supposed to be doing? Can you show me where I should put the probes and what numbers I shoud expect? (p.s the negative connection is off)
Last edited by Circlemerc; May 22, 2025 at 12:50 PM.
Put your voltmeter on volts setting and first measure across the battery terminals -- should be about 12.6 volts. Then move the black test lead to some nearby chassis bolt or bracket -- should read the same voltage if the battery sensor is OK. Then move the voltmeter's red test lead to the nearby fuse block where the battery's red cables terminate, and measure on both sides of the fuses -- should again be about 12.6 volts in all places.
Your image isn't in your above post, so my directions above are a guess.
[img alt="All I can see is these 2 circled.
The battery voltage was 12.7"]https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.mbworld.org-vbulletin/1500x2000/img_20250522_185132_82602d3babd1e54bbc9b3f648a4bf1 1953d50dd3.jpg[/img] All I can see is these 2 circled. The battery voltage was 12.7
Put your voltmeter on volts setting and first measure across the battery terminals -- should be about 12.6 volts. Then move the black test lead to some nearby chassis bolt or bracket -- should read the same voltage if the battery sensor is OK. Then move the voltmeter's red test lead to the nearby fuse block where the battery's red cables terminate, and measure on both sides of the fuses -- should again be about 12.6 volts in all places.
Your image isn't in your above post, so my directions above are a guess.
I can't see my own replies 🤔
Here is another picture I have circled 2 parts which one shallI test?
Can you re-post the above photo without the blue and yellow boxes on it? I will circle the measurement points and reference them to the schematic for where you should place your voltmeter probes.
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