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So I am looking to hardwire in a DashCam into my wife's 2019 GLE 43 AMG Coupe. Ideally I would like to keep the wiring confined to the front of the vehicle and not have to go through the firewall or into the rear of the vehicle. So I noticed a plethora of open slots in the fuse box next to the glove compartment but the fuse box diagram doesn't give any information on what their functions are. Can anyone shed any light as to which of these slots (if any) are switched by the ignition and are a constant 12V while the car is on? Thanks in advance.
All of the circuits at the end of the passenger side dash are always hot. If you're looking for a switched 12V source, you can tap into the glove box light bulb (accessible by removing the lens cover), but be sure to add an in-line fuse if the hardwire kit doesn't already include one.
All of the circuits at the end of the passenger side dash are always hot. If you're looking for a switched 12V source, you can tap into the glove box light bulb (accessible by removing the lens cover), but be sure to add an in-line fuse if the hardwire kit doesn't already include one.
i was hoping to just use an add a fuse so that cutting and striping of factory wiring wouldn’t be necessary. Are there any fuse locations in that box or any of the other fuse boxes that are switched with the ignition that can be utilized? Thank you for your reply.
Unfortunately, the only switched fuses are in the fuse panels in the engine compartment or underneath the rear bench seat (much longer runs). The glove box light is very easy to tap with a "vampire" clamp (no cutting or stripping, just crimping through the factory insulation in a very small area protected by plastic cover) and you can run the wire behind the trim panel by just removing a few screws and dropping the glove box ceiling a couple inches.
Unfortunately, the only switched fuses are in the fuse panels in the engine compartment or underneath the rear bench seat (much longer runs). The glove box light is very easy to tap with a "vampire" clamp (no cutting or stripping, just crimping through the factory insulation in a very small area protected by plastic cover) and you can run the wire behind the trim panel by just removing a few screws and dropping the glove box ceiling a couple inches.
These type of connectors (Scotch Lock connectors) should be avoided and are only prone to corrosion and failure in time. It actually almost resulted in a motorcycle fire when someone took the easy way out used Scotch lock connectors. They also tend to break individual strands making for an inferior electrical connection. Properly crimped terminals, soldered wires, and the use of heat shrink tubing are the best way to go- and the most reliable as well.
These type of connectors (Scotch Lock connectors) should be avoided and are only prone to corrosion and failure in time. It actually almost resulted in a motorcycle fire when someone took the easy way out used Scotch lock connectors. They also tend to break individual strands making for an inferior electrical connection. Properly crimped terminals, soldered wires, and the use of heat shrink tubing are the best way to go- and the most reliable as well.
I agree to avoid Scotch-Lock connectors. They damage wires and fail too often.
Soldering has its place, but if the wire will not be supported, the solder connection stresses individual strands and can cause failures - best used if both ends of the wire are secured so the wire doesn't vibrate.
A better choice in many applications is the Posi-Products Posi-Tap. https://www.posi-products.com/posiplug.html
They have several products including butt connectors, splicers and an in-line fuse holder. Some are waterproof. I've used for many years - happy to have found them.
A little difficult to explain how they work because they are so simple - watch this
05-10-2021, 09:25 PM
