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Hello , I was hoping for a expert opinion before I trailer this to the dealer . 16 gle 63amg 71000 miles , Car ran perfect before i parked it in November i haven't driven or started since. I decided to put my android touch screen in over the weekend everything is plug and play no splicing wires. i didn't disconnect the battery because multiple installation videos don't show doing that . I started the vehicle after install and it has a terrible miss and idles extremely ruff. I will supply the codes , I replaced the battery thinking the voltage was to low from sitting but that didn't work still getting the same codes and i cant get the B codes to reset.
I'm thinking there is a fuse or rely that is bad because all the codes show circuit open fault ground.
Nope , Parked in garage whole time. I'm just kinda at a loss because the vehicle has been perfect never any problems, I just want to get some feedback from people before it goes to the dealer and they start telling me it needs a hundred different things when it could be just a fuse or rely that tripped while i was unplugging connectors to the radio.
the 2 codes P209400,P209200 when i try to erase those wont reset you can here something under the hood like the PCM click like its trying to close the circuit for reset but stays open and the codes pop back up and wont clear,
Im going to try replacing the 4 cam sensors today. They are the original ones i thought the sensor problem was pre 13 M157 and was fixed after that with the oil getting into the wire harness , and check for oil contamination at the plug and ECU connection since that is where the codes are coming from.
Personally, before I spent any money on it, I'd put the display that was replaced back in to see if something in the new display is causing the issue. Also, you really need to ground yourself to the vehicle chassis whenever you're doing any work on the electronics. Just about everything in the vehicle interfaces directly with a computer. Most computers will fry if hit with a static electricity discharge. Mercedes has a specific procedure pertaining to that - it always pops up before one tries to open a procedure in WIS that involves any electrical work.
None of the codes is active, meaning what you display can't create problem with bad running.
Most likely those codes were generated when you had battery low, or maybe 5 years ago when something else happened?
Clear the codes and recheck after some engine running.
Update, This why i hate and dread going to the dealer, the told me my #5 coil was shorted out.. which if it was i would have had misfire codes not low voltage codes .. 585.00 dollars to replace . I personally replaced all spark plugs and coils 1000 miles previous to this happening . I was given a supposedly the faulty coil back which didn't match any of the part numbers of the ones i put in because i still had the boxes of the ones i bought. So I asked the mechanic how he knew the coil was bad he said he had to replace a fuse that was blown.
I knew it was only a fuse or rely that popped when i was unplugging and plugging in radio connections because the command system displays the sport and sport +changes and the timing of the motor changes when you turn the dial which makes sense if something got a power surge and i was getting the cam codes .. So car had 3/4 of a tank when i dropped it off and only a half when i picked it and paid 585.00 dollars for probably a 15 min diagnostic and fuse replacement and a hour joy ride to use a 1/4 tank of gas and beat on my car.
Car is running fine now and has original screen back in. Thanks for all that replied
Lesson learned ..no more messing with electronics..
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