Opinions needed. Jumping ship from a 2013 ML BT W166 to a 2018 GLE400 W166?




1 - reduce oil change interval to @5K Miles. For the tranny, shorten it as well to your liking. Just do not extend services as long as MB says (if you are out of warranty they will not come a fix it for you)
2 - increase oil weight to 5W40, and if weather permits even 10W40 (not during Ontario winter)
3 - oil solenoid pump modification. Discussed to death in the W212 AMG MB World forum
4 - Always warm the engine to normal temperature if you plan to step on it. Never floor it until it is hot.
5 - similarly, do not shut it off immediately after a hard/spirited run.
6 - if you tune it, be careful and do not overdo it
On general maintenance, @chassis has a compilation in his signature that applies to the W166 overall. Keep in mind the "V6 TT engine" was used on several platforms, so you can always check on other platforms' discussions.




You have your opinions, and I respect them regardless if I agree with them or not.
Last edited by JCM_MB; Feb 19, 2024 at 06:33 PM.




You have your opinions, and I respect them regardless if I agree with them or not.
It has nothing to do with Mechanical degree, especially when oil formulation require degree in chemistry.




Viscosity choices have to do with ENGINE CLEARANCES. Unless you take the engine apart completely, machine it and rebuild it to a tighter tolerance than original specs, then running the oil recommended in the manual is still your best bet. If anything, for daily commuting in a normal passenger car I'd run thinner oil in a motor, never thicker than what it calls for. Thinner oil flows better, provides more lubrication and more importantly, more cooling to various internal engine hot spots. Thicker oil doesn't flow as fast, and, in some cases, it may not be able to flow through tiny oil passages at all. Unless you're driving a race engine where the thinner oil doesn't have enough film strength and you're shearing the oil, use what the engineers that designed the engine recommended.




Viscosity choices have to do with ENGINE CLEARANCES. Unless you take the engine apart completely, machine it and rebuild it to a tighter tolerance than original specs, then running the oil recommended in the manual is still your best bet. If anything, for daily commuting in a normal passenger car I'd run thinner oil in a motor, never thicker than what it calls for. Thinner oil flows better, provides more lubrication and more importantly, more cooling to various internal engine hot spots. Thicker oil doesn't flow as fast, and, in some cases, it may not be able to flow through tiny oil passages at all. Unless you're driving a race engine where the thinner oil doesn't have enough film strength and you're shearing the oil, use what the engineers that designed the engine recommended.
as far as the MB operating manual we can run these engines up 10W40 without breaking any guidelines.
Where does it say to run these engines with 0W40 ONLY?
It seems some people can choose but others cannot?
Last edited by JCM_MB; Feb 22, 2024 at 08:22 PM.
My personal experience on a ford explorer V8 4.3 that I owned for ten years - I used to change oil every 8K KM and kept up with all the other services. The motor was good but at 550k km I got rid of the truck because the body was disintegrating. This is one of the problems for us who live in the snow belts. According to some of the papers I have read the GLE panels are galvanized both sides to combat the rust problem.
The Best of Mercedes & AMG




On separate note, my source is from an automotive component manufacturer that test these engines, and other engine manufacturer, 24/7/365 to certify their products. It is not pulled from thin air. They collect more data that can be collected in this forum if we were to send our oil for testing, and they measure wear, something we cannot unless we disassemble our engines between oil changes.
I once again repeat that is my personal decision and recommendation if asked. I am not preaching it for everyone
Last edited by JCM_MB; Feb 22, 2024 at 08:49 PM.




I used to live in Waterloo until 2015. Hope Ontario weather is treating you well.
On separate note, my source is from an automotive component manufacturer that test these engines, and other engine manufacturer, 24/7/365 to certify their products. It is not pulled from thin air. They collect more data that can be collected in this forum if we were to send our oil for testing, and they measure wear, something we cannot unless we disassemble our engines between oil changes.
I once again repeat that is my personal decision and recommendation if asked. I am not preaching it for everyone
As for Mercedes and microcontrollers, some six or seven years ago I was doing a gig for them in trying to figure out why they were seeing unusually high failure rates with some control modules. We eventually isolated it to specific module batches, which in turn contained microcontroller chips from specific batches. Those batches were in turn made on specific days at a particular NXP chip manufacturing plant. At that point, NXP started to dig deeper and determined that the only correlation was one employee that worked on those days in the class 4 clean room where the chip wafers were being prepared for the chemical vapour deposition process. Apparently she used some kind of personal care product that had a specific smell / perfume in it that bound to the wafers and caused the PN junctions that were subsequently formed on the chip dies to prematurely fail. That's my Mercedes microcontroller story.
Sorry for the diversion / thread hijack everyone.




do not get that nasty burnt oil smell either after the hard run. Not racing by any means.
10W40 is on the list to evaluate because the technical recommendation, and also know some people already are using it in similar climate, and some even colder than Florida.
Enjoy

@Diabolis that is a fascinating story on the PN junction. On a separate note any recommendation for a reliable Mercedes service place in GTA ?



Welcome to the board.