I wouldn't do an engine flush, if you're good with oil changes I've seen full blown sludge engines get cleaned out with a couple oil changes a year with regular dino oil

I don't like doing chemistry with rubber seals, gaskets, and RTV. That part is conjecture and I don't have any proof to support that

 

 

Second I click the link my anxiety kicked in 😂 thanks for the heads up 🙏🏼👍🏼

 

Thanks for the support, I hear your concerns, the reason I’m considering a flush is cause the PCV looked really bad, like really bad…. But the engine oil does indeed always look good after each change I just feel if the PCV was so damn bad maybe there will be a benefit within the engine to do the flush….

here’s how the PCV looked 😬



again as scary as this looks, every oil change at 5k oil was as it should be, no smell, no particulates / sizes of any sludge in the engine / pan / filter….

soley based on how the old PCV looked at 120k is why I’m considering the flush… but maybe PCVs at 120k catch all the **** and when it’s at its life’s end they look like this? Past its life ofc…

What do you guys say? Do it the flush before oil change or just keep sticking to new oil changes and let the oil do its thing?

 

You're welcome, I shared my experience in this thread https://mbworld.org/forums/c450-c43-...-oil-flow.html

 

Forgot to ask, did you send the oil and fluid samples to Blackstone labs?

 

EEEEK!!!! hot tamales! maybe pour a can of seafoam on that motor while you are at it.

 

Italian tune up?

 

As in if that would help?

 

Okayyyy okayyyy time for an update!!

So yesterday I went ahead and decided to go through with the Liqui Moly engine flush. But in order to do so I decided to do a regular oil change after the flush with Mobil 1 and run through the system just to clean out anything left from the flush (me being paranoid), and do another oil change after that using the Motul 5W40 100% synthetic.

The original oil before the flush looked very clean, nothing abnormal in sight. Went ahead and added the flush, left the car on idle for exactly 10 minutes, then did the first oil change, during the drain I noticed the oil came out like water (engine flush did its thing).

I let the oil completely be drained out of the system until every last drop, then changed the filter (OEM) and proceeded to put 6.5l of Mobil 1 0w40 (Already had it stocked, figured I might as well use it to flush out whatever if any of the engine flush fluid is left).

At this point, I let the engine idle for another 10 minutes, thereafter did another and final oil change. This time while draining everything looked normal, let every drop of oil drain out again oddly enough this time it took a few minutes longer then the first, changed the filter again and finally added Motul 5W40….


The results:

Engine is definitely smoother during idle, I didn’t think I’d see a difference tbh but i really do! Not that the engine wasn’t smooth before, it’s just way smoother now and I’m very pleased 😃

I drove for about an hour after the change and I can definitely see the difference, now I waited till the next morning (today) to see how it starts up cold and report back here…

I really wish I would’ve recorded the cold start before to post it here and show you guys the difference. The cold start before was a little rough I had about 5 to 10 seconds of a little rattle noise that would go away and not come back until the next cold start, and it’s not noticeable unless you have the hood open at cold start, but it bothered me nonetheless…

This oil really had an effect! I started her up cold and she’s PURRRING! Absolutely no rattle, she sounds perfect as new! Now that could be the effect of changing the viscosity from 0W40 to 5W40 with the Florida climate needing 5W and me using 0W this entire time, or it could be Motul being 100% synthetic and not “full synthetic”. or could even be a combination of everything.

either way, I’m extremely pleased with the results and I highly recommend giving this a try. I hope my experience here can help others as I’ve truly learned a lot 😁🙏🏼

 

Yup, exactly my experience I mentioned the same thing : ) "purring"

Glad to hear you enjoy switching to an ester based oil, anything is better than mobil1 0w 40 to be honest. Glad you can experience the differences we other forum members experience as well.

 

thats kinda just what it looks like. Also welcome to the based oil gang. There is a huge difference with switching motor oil. Motul is very good stuff. If you think you can't feel oil use whatever youre recommended and switch to Amsoil/Motul/Pennzoil Platinum Euro and it's absurd how much stuff it cleans out and improves your idle/mpg/throttle.

I'm curious about the cause moreso than the fix since we all kinda figured it out together almost right away. Do you not drive the car very hard? Thats the high RPM vent (the low RPM one is on the right valve cover with the tubes attached to the intake) it has a centrifuge to spin the oil to help it vaporize out the lil chute. Oil's not really even supposed to be a liquid let alone a solid in that area. I would explore the possibility of replacing the centrifuge later in life if you have ventiliation issues from buildup. It's a reverse threaded bolt (I THINK DO NOT QUOTE ME ON THIS), and they develop a lil bit of play which prematurely wears out the donut gasket you see there which then dumps oil into the sealing gasket area. I got no reason to suspect anything is up yet though

After your Motul plunge I'd love to get your business on an Amsoil deep dive!

 

Now you have done it, do your engine a well deserve italian tune up. Do it at least once a week. Let the little beast breathe properly and it will unclog those carbon deposits. Every time I go to the mountains every week I put the 43 on S+ and just let it go and hear the brap-brap-pop-pop. While your engine is more sedate put that thing on sport mode then hit the M button then let it go. Get it at 4500-5500rpm before you gear up and do it a for 5-10 miles then you will give that engine the stretch it needs.

 

Thanks for your input!

tbh I believe the cause is due to lack of oil changes and sitting idle a lot. Previous owner showed no love lol….

im also thinking of replacing the waste gate, just haven’t looked into where it’s actually located and what that adventure entails, any info would be appreciated 😅

Regarding the centrifuge, are you referring to #10 in this diagram?

 

 

Yes. That might indeed be it.

 

yeah its that stupid thing, again no reason to suspect its not working. Usually your engine starts acting up and huffing and puffing at idle when its not working or breathing excessive oil at high RPM. Dont mess with the turbos. The turbo stuff lasts pretty much forever, what you need to do is take care of your oil which takes care of the turbos. Cool oil cool turbos.

https://alphaeuropean.myamsoil.com/

 

Agree. Good oil for the engine = Good oil for the turbo

 

For your 2019 GLE400 with the M276 Bi-Turbo in Florida, sticking with Mobil 1 0W-40 is perfectly fine. The first number (0W) refers to cold-start performance, and since Florida is usually hot, you won’t see any advantage from switching to 5W-40. The 40 at the end indicates high-temperature viscosity, which is what matters most for hot climates, and 0W-40 already provides excellent protection. There’s no need to switch oils unless your manufacturer specifically recommends it, or if you’re looking for a different oil spec like MB 229.5/229.51 compliance. Your current oil choice is suitable for your climate and mileage.

 

Was it Motul 8100 X-CLEAN GEN2 5W-40 or Motul 8100 POWER 5W-40?

 

Motul x-cess gen 2 API SP. some counties x-cess gen 2 comes in API SN. You want the latest SP one. It has mb approval 229.5

 

The main change is the formula and additives as well as the brand here. Hence why there were noticeable differences.