LadyMD

My GLK is adorable and I agree with many reviews that indicate that it is "...more pug than poodle..." and generally, I love it--however, each time the weather turns cold and rainy or (even worse) snowy, the GLK is MORE SCREECHING CHIMPANZEE than pug! Does anyone know if there is any remedy for this? My dealership has tried replacing the brakes once but when the weather became frightful, the problem surfaced again!

Scabby

My glk does the same. The dealer so far has said its a thing with the c class and the glk is essentially a c class brake system. Not very helpful.

NYCGLK

Some members reported squeaky brakes and I think it was taken care of. Tell dealer to stop BSing around. It has to do with pads and rotors not the fact that C-class has the same problem. If something doesn't work on GLK would you take excuse that C-class has the same problem? Tell them to fix it. This is not acceptable in any new car IMO.

I've had mine for 2 years and not a peep from the brakes.

BTW C300 and C350 have different rotors and pads. I think GLK's rotors are similar to C350 not sure if they are identical.

mr.mbenz

...as I had already posted about my problem of squeeking in "reverse"
After a few road tests and on different appointments, the darn brakes would not squeak with the MB technican.
I tried again a few weeks ago with the SA and no go. Finally, I stated while coming back from a test drive to the service garage, I need to try one more time...and lo behold, it squeaked!
The SA did mention something about the water / rain / moisture having an effect on the squeaking?

My GLK went in for service today and getting a few other touch ups like the rear wiper, side mirror motor, and gas door...

As NYCGLK says... tell them to cut the crap...this is an MB not a domestic.

MBRedux

Here, you may wish to read these....:

https://mbworld.org/forums/search.php?searchid=6816114

dlinjuly2009

My brakes started squealing after one year and 6,000 km.
It happened at low speed and not every time. My SA told me that Mercedes Benz recommends high speed brake application to take the glaze off the pads and reduce the brake noise. I talked to a friend who has an E class (his third Mercedes) and he has the same problem and says he he would drive with his foot on the brake for a short distance and the noise would go away. Another friend has an old merc and installed his own brakes, He had the same problem and put some anti-squeak grease on the piston? that holds the brake pad and the noise went away.

MBRedux

Brake squeal can be caused by a number of conditions: Worn pads, glazed pads and/or rotors, broken anti rattle clips, worn out pad rails, pins or guides, lack of pad insulation or insulating shims (works better than orange Brake-Quiet), and incorrect rotor surface that either wasn't cut at all or cut poorly.

Worn Pads
A brake pad is comprised of steel backing with friction material attached to it. Application of the brakes produces hydraulic pressure that causes the brake pads (via brake calipers) to clamp down on the rotors (discs) creating friction as the car is in motion. It is the friction of the pads against the rotors that slows and stops the vehicle. When the friction material on the pads wears down enough, it is time to replace the pads. Some pads are equipped with a wear indicator, which is a small spring steel clip. When a pad is worn, this clip makes contact with the rotor and generates a high-pitched squeal, telling you that it is time to service the brakes. Our Mercedes has an electronic wear indicator but only on one side. When the pad is almost gone, a warning will light on the dash.

Glazed Pads and Rotors
Brake squeal can also occur when the brake caliper sticks and the brake pad stays applied to the rotor. This happens mostly with carbon based pads that create plenty of black corrosive dust. When this happens the pad can either be in constant contact with the rotor, producing excessive friction and thus heat or partial contact with the rotor causing a resonating squeal. Overheated pads usually harden and then crystallize crating a "glazing" on the rotors and pads as well. The squealing sound is a result of these super hardened surfaces coming in contact with one another. Remember, it is the friction created by the brake pad against the rotor that stops a vehicle. When crystallization of pad and rotor occurs, there is much less friction, like finger nails on a school blackboard, the two slick surfaces create a tone. This results in diminished braking power and annoying squealing brakes. At this point the pads should be replaced and the rotors either resurfaced or replaced.

Broken Anti Rattle Clips
The brake pad is loosely held in place on the caliper by pad retainers, pins, rails, guides or stays. An additional part called an anti rattle clip is used to secure the pad so that it will not vibrate or rattle when the brake is applied. If anti rattle clips are worn or broken, pad vibration will cause squealing. In this case, the clips should also be replaced, especially when the pads are routinely replaced.

Lack of Pad Insulation or Insulation Shims
When a car comes from the factory, insulation anti-squeal shims are placed against the steel backing of the pad to insulate it from the brake caliper. This is necessary to prevent brake squeal. These shims that have a smooth teflon surface eventually wear out or they are sometimes wrongly discarded when a brake job is performed. When the pads are replaced, either new shims should be installed or orange Brake-Quiet silicone insulation gel must be applied to that inner surface of the pad to prevent squeal. If you had your brakes replaced recently by the dealer or anyone else and they're squealing, it's a good bet the shop failed to install new shims or Brake-Quiet.

Incorrect Rotor Surface Cut or No Surface Cut at All
When a brake job is performed, the rotors must be resurfaced to remove any glazing and return the surface to a "true" flat disc shape. First the rotor is machined to remove grooves and/or imperfection on the rotor surface. Once the rotor face is "true," a slow, non-directional finish is applied to the rotor face to ensure proper break-in of the pads. This process also insures that the pads don't ride up on the face of the rotor when braking. Riding up of the pads can cause a clicking sound, the breaking of anti rattle clips, or caliper pin wear. If the rotor is found to be too thin according to state inspection rules, it is discarded and replaced with new ones, and should be done in pairs, either both front or both rear.

It is also important to note that if your pads were replaced without resurfacing the rotors, then squealing and pedal pulsation will probably occur.

venchka

I have not heard a disc brake system make a sound since July, 1989 for sure and probably earlier than that. If my GLK brakes EVER make a sound it is going to the dealer and it won't come home until the noise is silenced. If Isuzu could make silent disc brakes in 1989, Mercedes-Benz better be able to do it in 2011. No other option is acceptable. Tell your S.A. that I said so! Grinning.

Wayne

Darrelontheroad

I am a first time MB driver and I have to say that I have had 33 cars since I was 16. And to tell you the truth I would NEVER expect a car company to not give a damn when it comes to their customers, considering when we buy these cars they are not the cheapest cars around and that is why most people buy Honda and Toyota however when you buy a Benz you actually feel accomplishment. When I hear my breaks squeaking after only 20,000klms and it needs Pads, roaters, and emerg. Break I found this disgusting. NEVER in my life have I heard of this. Wow we pay $60,000 for a car and this happens to all cars then I think it should be their prob. Not ours.

mjhawkins2346

If they squeak something isn't right. Period. I've had 8 Mercedes Benz and not one has ever had squeaky brakes - including the C Class I sold recently.
I usually do my own brakes and do nothing fancy but I do put some red CRC Disk Brake Quiet goop on the back of the pads where the clips are on the end.

bop11

Agree with mjhawkins, something is wrong. Needing brakes rotor and especially emergency brakes at 20,000km is not usual for the GLK as a search on this BB will tell you. Many reports of over 40 or 50 k miles before pad or disk replacement are common. Are you the only driver? Some people forget about the E-brake but in the GLK the dash lights up if you leave it on. The emergency brake problem is especially worrisome, as this does not have electronic emergency brakes as Rovers and many other cars now do. They should never wear out. A competent dealer should review the systems and tell you what is wrong.

Darrelontheroad

Thx Guys for the info. I knew there had to b a prob. Since I am the only driver and it only has 21, 000klms on it. I also use the brakes less then most since I live in a cold area with a lot of snow I use the gears more even down shifting so the engine slows the the car down easier then braking in the snow, so the car does not skid or slide. I will check my dealership again so they dont try to screw me. It sure is nice to hear from other Benz drivers that have been through the same things.

vanrooster70

Just curious..... When your rotors are cooled off, run your finger from the middle to the edge of the rotor. Is there a lip built up on the outer edge? I had same issues as you. I had about 50k on mine though. I tried everything to get them to stop making noise and nothing worked. I think the oem rotors are very soft and get eaten away by the pads very prematurely. My rotors were done and still had 50% of the pad left. I replaced rotors and pads myself and not a whisper since. It's been a year now. I used Ate (ahtay) high perf. rotors and wagner thermoquiet pads. Great combo. Super initial bite and very linear braking. As good or better than stock was. Anyway hope things work out for you.

Darrelontheroad

Ya thats how I knew the rotors were done. When the car was cool I checked the rotors with my finger and my buddy was with me so he knew I was not full of S--t . And the lip of the rotors were so deep and sharp that u could really cut ur finger on them. I still can't believe that they could b that bad with only 21, 000 on them. And u would think when u buy a high end car so to speak that this should not happen so soon. Oh well I guess we live and learn. I sure as hell will not use their parts on it when I replace them thats for sure, they r crap.

bop11

MB suggests that the front brake pads wear at 4,000 km/mm and the rears at 6,000 km/mm. If the pads are 19.5 mm when new, and you must reduce this by 3mm for binder, and the min wear limit is 2mm ( wear indicator at 2.3mm) then usable to wear indicator should be 14.2 mm or 56800 Km (35,000 miles). I passed that without the indicator coming on but my disks are now undersize.
I replace with Centric 125.35080 Hi Carbon disks and Centric 105.14060 ceramic pads for a 2010 GLK350AWD. These are the same front disks used on an E550. I like Akebono pads, but thought I might try the matched set of Centric's. The Centric's also have a coated center so they don't show any rust. Cost with shipping is $207 . If the dealer didn't put the front wheels on with a torqued out air wrench, should take about 1-1/2 hours. Dealer wanted $650.
Job completed using Centric's. A little hard to get the disks off but a big hammer works. Total job 1-1/2 hours including cleanup. After 14 ,000 miles still no squeak or dust. Will do the rears the same way when they need it.

koalatm

My wife's GLK often has squeaky brakes. I attribute it to the fact that this vehicle engine brakes quite efficiently, so there isn't much need to use the brakes, and when you do, it's probably light pressure.

This type of braking application will lead to a nice film developing on the rotors.

Whenever her GLK becomes squeaky I take it out onto the highway and do a few hard stops from 150-160 km/h -- always solves it.

edwardsflight33

I notice the break squeak in when performing gentle braking at slow speeds sometimes too. We have to park on a hill so we keep the parking brake on pretty tight. The squeaking happens on damp mornings after the glk has set over night.

I have my C63 on storage status right now with same parking situation. I noticed when I moved it a few feet to adjust weight on the tires I could see on the rotors where the parking brake had been at previously.

This has lead me to the theory, that the squeaking is caused by residual brake dust after have the parking brake on. Unfortunately there aren't any areas flat enough in the drive way to park without have the parking brake on.

ChanChicken

Took delivery of the GLK home in exactly 60 days ago. Been having this exact same issue where it squeaks at low speed just like edwardsflight33 described often, except I leave the car inside the garage.

Will do a couple hard brakes and see if it goes away.

koalatm

A garaged vehicle will have squeaky brakes easier than one parked outside - the garage tends to build up too much moisture, especially if you're in an area with snow or rain- so nothing breathes and airs out... rust forms quickly on the rotors in these conditions!

roscoe108

Mine too. Bought a GLK250 demo from the dealership with about 4,000 km on it. Brake squealing coincided with the beginning of winter about 500 km later. And yeah, it's a low-speed squeal that occurs while braking, at its worst in the last 50 feet before coming to a full stop.

Took it into the dealership and was told the same thing about glazing. Did a few brake stomps to alleviate it. Squealing still happens from time to time, but it seems to be at its worst during very cold weather, and almost non-existent during above-freezing weather. When it's warm out, there is no squealing at all.

So is it really a glazing issue (given its appearance only during damp/cold) or should I take it in and demand they replace pads and/or rotors? (my GLK has about 9,000 km on it by now.)

Awesys

Seems to be a common issue with no solution... Mine squeals at low speed applications as well. I will have to try doing some hard stops from higher speeds like koalatm.

I have had a third-party mechanic do everything - reshaped the rotors after they still squealed after the first replacement, replace both front and rear brake pads/rotors, tried different brands (I think they used the MB ones first and they still squealed - then they put on Akebono rear brake pads and Zimmermann rear brake rotors), and they still are squeaky sometimes.

When I brought it into a MB dealership the service advisor said they could have a look but the squeaking would generally come back so as long as I was certain that the brakes were good, I decided to not spend the money to have them look at it.

Brake dust on the front wheels is a big problem too, I am not sure if this contributes to the squealing problem or not.

Also, the way you brake might have an effect. Through the MB Driving Academy I was told to apply harder, increasing braking to see if this helps, but I am the type of driver who leaves plenty of distance in front of me and comes to a gradual stop. Hard to change habits!

BUT: My friend with a BMW X1 has a similar issue, so it isn't just MB.

koalatm

I'm sorry, but what do you mean by no solution? Hard braking has solved this for many folks, including myself.

I'm not saying the issue isn't perhaps more complicated in some situations, but this is one of the most common things on any vehicle.

Awesys

Sorry for the misunderstanding, I didn't mean no solution in general, just no solution for me in my particular situation. I'm sure if I spent some more time and money investigating it, I could have silent braking, but it doesn't bug me to that point.

I will certainly try the hard braking and that may solve it!

PilotAlan

Early 2013 over winter, the brakes on my GLK were squealing like mad at slow speed stops. They were glazed.


Out to a country road, took it up to 100 three times and did full ABS-engaged stops to a full stop in quick succession. Never heard a peep from them since.

koalatm

Nicely done. Also, it's kind of fun