knhellesky

WOW !

I just took a quick look on mine...so you had to take off that plastic shield just to take pictures...

nickEl

Those pictures were from the first oil change I did on the car at 1000 miles.

If you're going to use the "old school drain the oil out the plug" method, then yes, you must first remove the engine compartment paneling (8 screws) which is not difficult. In fact, if you have long arms you won't even need the car off the ground.

Nick

knhellesky

Thanks!

Just curious...why change oil at 1000 miles?

nickEl

There's plenty of controversy on the myth vs reality of a break in oil change, but that is why I changed the oil at 1000 mi. It works for me and my situation, might not be worth it for others.

Nick

budzy

Can somebody tell me where the oil drain plugs are located and what size. Can we buy Oil Filter in MB dealer's, and where is it located in the engine. I'm a lawyer don't know anything about engine. thank you,

knhellesky

I hope you don't take offense when I say that you should just get this done by the folks who do it for a living.

Unless you got the GLK as your first hobby car...just my .02

MBRedux

Fully agree. I would not recommend that you try to do this rather simple service procedure if you're not even sure where the oil filter is located. Leave it to those that do, but be ready to be taken to the cleaners. If you wish to learn simple mechanics, there are summer classes held at the YMCA, Community Centers, etc. Then when you're confident, try doing it yourself otherwise you can ruin your car. I tried representing myself in court a few times. The first time I lost. The second time I won but only after I was coached by some fine attorneys I knew.

Richie999

My authorized MBZ dealer pumped the oil out and into my front seat!

They then took out the drain plug, threw it a passing car.

The passing car lost control and couldn't stop because the driver was texting Daimler.

Crashing into the front of the MBZ dealer, after losing control, the owner of the wrecked car argued with the service manager.

The owner felt that his male enhancement pump led to the the brake failure.

Service manager was offended and said we don't use those pumps and that they use gravity to drain fluids.

Daimler called the dealer and told the dealer that it was time to start using the pump - that Mercedes had actually purchased the patent for this so called gravity and sold it to the Albanians.

So....this oil in my front seat....do I use a pump or gravity?

knhellesky

Are you high?

Richie999

Nope. Splitting hairs over this issue is much more

All the who shot john over what the dealer should/does do is lame.

knhellesky

Well thanks for clearing that up!

We appreciate your incoherent rambling about the subject.

I'm pretty sure your expert contribution on this thread will help enormously for the folks in this forum.

Richie999

Well for many my rambling brought a smile to their face.

Lighten up there Knhellesky. It's just the internet.

knhellesky

I like it how you generalized your response to "It's just the internet".

Now I know what level you are coming from.

Thanks!

knhellesky

I finally got the GLK on the ramp and took a gander at the oil pan.

I have a few notes and questions...

1. That drain plug is a lot smaller compared to the Honda's that I'm used to (13mm vs 17 mm)

2. There is plenty of space for the Fumoto drain valve. I definitely will need an adapter due to the recessed part of the oil pan. Total length of the drain valve will be at 6.3 cm with the adapter.

3. I'm not quite familiar with the mechanics of the 4Matic, so the drive of front wheels are connected somehow to the engine block? or is separate but just part of the housing assembly.

I took some pictures, but I gotta get me some cloud space to store them on the net and link them here.

kyoshiro

engine -> transmission ->front drive and rear drive i believe

Oldengineer

From the pictures I've seen of the 4MATIC - the front differential sits next to the engine and one of the front driveshafts passes through a tunnel in the engine's oil pan.

Regards:
Oldengineer

allanX204

check out post #13 on this forum /
weblink:
http://www.benzworld.org/forums/x204...-change-2.html


.

knhellesky

Very nice! Exactly what I was looking for.

Thanks allanX204!

allanX204

You're welcome

MBRedux

Good illustration. I predict that the drivers side axle seal (where the shaft exits the oil pan) will be trouble one day. Otherwise, that thread is not exactly dead on.

knhellesky

From the first look I did after putting it up on a ramp, looks like I'll be changing the oil "old school" as well.

It's not as bad as I thought; with plenty of room to work.

What size washers do you use? is that a 12 or 14 mm?

MBRedux

I believe the inner diameter is 14mm. Since it's soft copper, I reuse the washer.

knhellesky

Thanks! I still got a bunch of 14mm crush washers that I can use.

CJBROWN

Did mine at 5K for the first one, easy to do on the GLK. IMHO 6-7K OIC is sufficient unless you are using analysis. 10-12K can cause sludge build up. I will probably use a 6500 OCI. But I probly won't keep the car either so it's kind of a moot point. Wifey wants a new 'vertible.

Wasn't there a class action suit some years ago for OIC's being too long on MBZ and BMW motors causing premature failures?

Normally I would get a filter from autohausaz or something, but put it off and ended up paying an extra $5 from the dealer. New copper washer included. Mobil1 from wallyfart, normally would get amsoil eurospec. The bimmer has lived on the latter and has 100K now, still zero oil consumption.

Going to the dealer for an oil change is just a hassle for me, and an added expense that is just unnecessary.

You do need a filter wrench, I had one from my last benzo. And you should be familiar with wrenching on cars. An oil change on one of these isn't any different than any other car I've owned.

If I had a pump I would probably use it. But I don't, I just drive it up on my homemade wooden block ramps and change the oil. Took less than 10 minutes.

mjhawkins2346

Well, I'm on my 9th Benz, this one a GLK and I never knew it was such a hot topic to polarize posters on whether to use a pump or pull a drain plug.
I'm spaz enough that I've ruined a few drain plugs in my crazy youth - and had to use one of those thread cutting replacement plugs which I figured was a much bigger hassle than worrying about metal shavings I've never found.
I like that I can change the oil in a Benz entirely from the top. Suck it out with a pump while unscrewing the filter. Never have to set down my beer. Talk about a benefit.
I have used a pump for many years in boats because the drain plug is inaccessable and if someone didn't put a valve and hose on it you'll never get it out and if you did you would just foul your bilge.
I have the same worry about missed particles but since the early 90's I've never seen a pan pulled that had much of anything in it if the oil changes were done regularly.
Those that are concerned, nevertheless, should do what they feel is best and validates their extra effort and pull the drain plug. FWIW, I find the exact and correct amount of oil gets sucked out to the teaspoon so I don't think any old oil gets left behind. My Benz's have lasted for an awful lot of miles and I don't put off oil changes since they're so easy.
Again do what you like. I'm comfortable with the pump.