GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

GLK Front Pads and Rotors Replacement

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Old 07-11-2011, 10:36 AM
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Nissan GT-R BE / '12 Ducati-1199 Panigale S / '12 C300-4M Loaded/GLK350-4M Loaded
Originally Posted by GLKMM
Oh wow you top me off again...!!! Now we are talking about racing the poor GLK...
Maaaa man... STOP. Put a hold on yourself, we are talking about a GLK not a top end F1 car. Cross drilled or slotted or both, It will not lower stopping quality it is simply for show. By the way are you a chemical or structural compound engineer? Have you dissected, took structural and chemical samples and compared in a lab to a data sheet or put these so called cheap after markets through vigorous tests?!?
I would not recomend any of this **** to these cars but I do not understand where you get-off with telling people what to do and what not to. If a guy wants cool brakes on his car what is your problem. Again it started with changing brakes to fluid to I don't know what else you will come up with. No one got killed by using them plus any rotor if ridden hard could go KAPUT in several stops around town. Tell me since you are an F1 guy. WHAT KIND OF HIGH QUALITY ROTORS ARE THE ORIGINAL ON A GLK. I guess its time to take a picture and show you the horror of the original MB brakes. THERE WERE CHUNCKS OF METAL MISSING. And it still stopped on the dime. According to you the NOT ORIGINAL EQUIPMENT ROTORS will disintegrate in a flash ?!? I have driven with ZIMMERMANN's crossdrilled for 35000 miles before changed the pads ONLY, and the discs were lightly scored never warped or hot-spotted soooooo RELAX... I have changed thousands of brakes on MBs. Many times we have changed discs to sport package on Cs and SLKs or CLKs on preferred customers, under warranty. So try to relax a little. Guys are having creative mind, not everything was created in a lab... Don't be the opposite to everyone... I've seen your posts...NEGATIVE
Originally Posted by GLKMM
Lord OH Lord... I am sooo apologetic, you must be a race driver who drives an F1 around town. Spoken again of this. I bet if GLK comes with an AMG tuned package and a cross-drilled and slotted you will change the tune... Oh I am sorry they are HIGH END slotted and cross-drilled, not like the aftermarket, which will fail in the first couple of brake applications... Benz uses ATE and/or Febi and still uses them... Did you know that they come in cross-drilled and/or slotted versions and also are cheaper than zimmermann-s. We are not talking about made in the east somewhere, they are still made in Germany or USA and undergo tough evaluation standards it is the very same with brembo or zimmermann... By the way the original GLK or MB in general rotors are designed to absorb a lot of the impact on them thus creating a more smooth and luxurious stop and scoring and warping way too much... The AMG are harder steel rotors but still they are not any superior to the aftermarkets so stop with the spitfire towards the after market sector... Driving an F1 car or a fighter jet, still, has nothing to do with a GLK, so please I am begging you with all my heart STOP.
Stop what? Responding to your posts? That's what this place is for, isn't it? I simply don't understand your obvious animosity, unless you dislike being challenged. I wish you no ill will... Many here know my credentials. I own and operate a Nismo shop and have been part of the racing community since 1977. No one here is or should be telling anyone what to do, just give advice and let the reader decide for themselves. Of course no one here is talking about racing a GLK either, (I can just imagine my wife driving her souped-up GLK) but it was you, not I who first recommended that DIY rotor drilling was an option. That's not wise and you know it to be as you well stated, but only after I commented. I also never mentioned brand names, you did. Most here will buy online or at their local parts or speed shop at the best price possible, not realizing that they will sacrifice performance for "looks". Yes, cheap nice looking drilled rotors could be worse performing than OEM... you should know that as a "MB Tech". (Without Googling, as a tech you should know what *cementite* is then... do you, be honest?) Cheap rotors are dangerous no matter how you cut them or not. Carbon content of iron is very difficult to measure after it has been cast. Therefore it's wiser and safer to buy from a reputable make than with your eyes or wallet alone... that's all I'm saying. But if your intention is to pick a fight with me, sorry I'm not playing.


PS: To digress for a moment "steel discs" are a common misnomer frequently used by those who should know better. Except for some motorcycles and karts, all ferrous discs are made from cast iron - an excellent material for the job. While steel has a higher tensile strength, cast iron is many times stronger than disc brake requirements. Its thermal transfer characteristics are significantly better than those of steel so that the heat generated at the interface between pad and disc is efficiently carried through the friction faces to the interior surface of the disc and into the vanes from where the heat is dissipated into the air stream. Cast iron is more dimensionally stable at elevated temperature than steel and is a better heat sink - so let us hear no more talk of "steel" brake discs, thank you.

Last edited by MBRedux; 07-11-2011 at 11:12 AM. Reason: Clarification
Old 07-11-2011, 12:41 PM
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Obviously you are illiterate as well... I am so sorry to say but I never recommended drilling the rotors, I simply suggested slotting them.
And believe me just because I said "steel" in a hurry does not mean I do not know that regular mass production automobile brake rotors are cast. made of two halves fused together, and "cheap" unreputable rotors have the tendency to crack at the fusion points and separate, and usualy are made in USA, South America or China by an USA subcontractors . And you are the one who puts good brands in the garbage, brands with international racing teams and sponsorships to various different racing events internationally including Formula-1, Le Mans, Paris-Dakar, now only Dakar, and even as old as Mille Miglia.
What did I say; whats going to be next on your smart remarks list; Cementite---OOOOHHH I knew you were a chemist, or maybe a "miner".
Yours is not a challenge, yours is a confrontational "I know better and more than you, and whatever you say I'll have the last word."
Tell me scientist where do we buy the best brake rotors for the GLK, since the once I am talking about are "Cheap" and will not perform up to factory specs.?????
With these posts you make the brands I talk about sound like garbage to everyone who is new to this and literally would love to save a buck. The same exact brands used by the dealer for you the customer...
Should we go to the dealer next time and pay $200 a pop in comparison to an online vendor of the same exact rotor shipped from germany at a price of $100. Even with my employee discount the dealer still stiffs me, every one who works at the dealer knows better and buys from vendors. The dealer is made for a customer who does not have the time or the nerve or the knowledge to shop around...
Did you say Nismo shop as in Nissan... If so, isn't "BREMBO CROSS DRILLED" considered performance for Nissan ????????
Old 07-11-2011, 12:49 PM
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Originally Posted by GLKMM
Most definitely, plus it will give some good appearance...
I would have loved to put cross drilled rotors but did not find any. Plus the sites who list them are extremely expensive... There is a simple procedures for fabricating slotted rotors your self. It was listed by www.Lindseyracing.com .
Correction: There are cross drilled slotted rotors for the GLK, but unfortunately are made by Brembo, which a Nismo guy crapped on and threw in the garbage, so consider reading his posts before buying.
Old 07-11-2011, 12:52 PM
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Originally Posted by GLKMM
Correction: There are cross drilled slotted rotors for the GLK, but unfortunately are made by Brembo, which a Nismo guy crapped on and threw in the garbage, so consider reading his posts before buying.
Never said Brembo rotors were crap. As a matter of fact, I never mentioned brands at all.
Old 07-11-2011, 12:57 PM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
And even more so on cheap aftermarket rotors. Although they may be performance labeled, these cheap rotors have a low carbon steel compound which will eventually crack and fail. Expect to pay top dollar. When racing, we use carbon rotors that can cost up to $1k each depending on the application.


Really
Old 07-11-2011, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
Never said Brembo rotors were crap. As a matter of fact, I never mentioned brands at all.

Oh my deepest apologies again!!! So to answer people requests about the topics of argue, GO TO www.brembo.com IF ANYONE WOULD LIKE TO REPLACE THE FACTORY ROTORS WITH BREMBO CROSS DRILLED AND/OR SLOTTED.
"P.S: By the way they will end up "Cheaper" than the dealer price on the factory rotors!!!"
Old 07-11-2011, 01:13 PM
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You need to chill out a bit or you'll not last here very long...

I fail to see the name "Brembo" anywhere in any of my posts. I do say to try and buy from "reputable brands" and Brembo does fall into that category... so I'm agreeing with you! In fact I just installed a set of these on my pals GT-R.



Where's all this "anger" coming from?
Old 07-11-2011, 01:23 PM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
You need to chill out a bit or you'll not last here very long...

I fail to see the name "Brembo" anywhere in any of my posts. I do say to try and buy from "reputable brands" and Brembo does fall into that category... so I'm agreeing with you! In fact I just installed a set of these on my pals GT-R.



Where's all this "anger" coming from?
Oh no anger at all, just simply trying to understand why Zimmermann rotors purchased from www.importec.com are not good. And similar but cheaper substitutions from brembo, ate(OEM), or febi(OEM) and I mention the names in comparison because this is what I've done prior to the purchase, are better ?!? Where is your point please explain so I can learn once and for all and shut my big mouth forever!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

"P.S: I am the one who mentioned BREMBO since I also compared to them as well! And they were cheaper than the Zimmermanns, except for the "performance" ones!"

Last edited by GLKMM; 07-11-2011 at 01:25 PM.
Old 07-11-2011, 01:28 PM
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Oh by the way one more thing; Which are the unreputable vendors to absolutely avoid at any cost ?!?
Old 07-11-2011, 05:35 PM
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Cheap doesn't always mean low retail price. Even though some vendors can demand a higher price for their products, it doesn't always translate into superior products. Here's an example of a high priced Zimmermann rotor. Real junk if you were to ask me!

Old 07-11-2011, 08:54 PM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
Cheap doesn't always mean low retail price. Even though some vendors can demand a higher price for their products, it doesn't always translate into superior products. Here's an example of a high priced Zimmermann rotor. Real junk if you were to ask me!

By the way thanks for the photo, it is from a porsche forum www.pelicanparts.com , in which they were talking about track racing with these brakes, so I thought that we were talking about not racing the GLK, but you are going back to the same point?!? Wouldn't you agree that virtualy all brake rotors out there will crack under severe conditions. I specified that my stock rotors were missing chuncks of metal, so will you suggest that GLK owners are ill advised to have their brake rotors replaced by the dealer with a stock replacement. I dont mean to be mean about it but it sounds like you disagree with all I have said.
Old 07-11-2011, 09:02 PM
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By the way, I believe the very same forum was talking about top of the line Porsche RS brembo brakes that ended in the same conditions after several laps.
Old 07-12-2011, 02:13 AM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
Cheap doesn't always mean low retail price. Even though some vendors can demand a higher price for their products, it doesn't always translate into superior products. Here's an example of a high priced Zimmermann rotor. Real junk if you were to ask me!
By the way they are not high priced...
But I am pretty sure there are no cross drilled Zimmermans for the GLK. And so far its Brembo who sells them...
And again the picture you posted is for brake rotors used in a racing competition at a track... The picture is of a rotor not intended for the purpose of racing but intended as an everyday street driver.
Didn't you say yourself that no one is going to be racing the GLK...
I still don't understand how do you compare racing brakes with everyday driven ones...

I am really sorry for my stupidity but I do not get your point !?!
Am I missing something, it seems that not I am the angry one but you..., in hating Zimmerman brake rotors as a replacement alternative to the stock MB rotors, on a GLK suv crossover which is going to be driven around town and on a highway from time to time. NOT THE RACE TRACK !!!

"P.S: WHEN I COMPARED THE PRICE OF A BASIC BREMBO ROTOR TO THE ONE OF A BASIC ZIMMERMAN..., BREMBO WAS CHEAPER. AND SINCE LAST TIME I USED BREMBO THEY WERE DONE IN VERY SHORT TIME, I DECIDED TO GO WITH THE ZIMMERMANS BECAUSE I HAD VERY GOOD EXPERIENCE IN THE PAST WITH THE LONGEVITY OF THE CROSS DRILLED ONES AND THOUGHT THAT THE BASIC ONES ARE JUST AS GOOD!!!"

Last edited by GLKMM; 07-12-2011 at 02:24 AM.
Old 07-13-2011, 01:25 AM
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Originally Posted by MBRedux
Never said Brembo rotors were crap. As a matter of fact, I never mentioned brands at all.

You are correct, you never said brembo or any brands to begin with, you just used the word "Cheap", in which case basic brembos fell in, while I was shoping for rotors. As a matter of fact I never said zimmerman "Cross Drilled" when you said "Cheap Rotors" the first time. So your commentaries are based on assumptions !
But whatever.., different strokes for different people...
So enjoy yours, 'cause I sure am very happy with mine, so long...
Old 01-31-2014, 11:12 AM
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2010 GLK350 4matic, 2014 Mazda 6, 1983 Porsche 944,
And the most Important-1 would be the Sears/GreatNeck universal 1/4in drive "Spline Toothed" Socket (about $14.99set)which will loose and tighten the Hex Headed Caliper Bracket Bolts!!! Metric or Standard it don't matter...
Can you give me some more info on this? The splined bolts are the correct bolts to remove to remove the caliper carrier? I've seen conflicting info on this.

Also, is it spline, or hex head? They are two different things.

Did you get a spline set or Etorx?

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