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E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Actually, wear rates tend to decrease as the lube is in service. Obviously, you get to a certain point and wear will trend higher....but don't change early because of potential engine wear.
I said before 3000 years ago, Plato knew how often to change oil when he said "the highest good lies in the mean". That is, someplace in the middle work best for many different scenarios. Don't be so generous to give ALL of you money away, but not so cheap that you never give anything away. It works with cars, wives, homes...whatever, someplace in the middle, not the extremes. (same for visc!)
Another risk factor with extended oil changes, is the possibility of contamination by coolant or intake dirt ingestion or failed PCV valve operation. Many times, a "sludged" engine isn't caused by the oil service per se, rather an outside issue. So if you go forever and a day on your oil change, not only are the contaminates staying in longer, it's less likely the source of the contamination will be discovered and repaired in a timely manner.
Just another factor to consider in a scenario where owners need to be self-aware, and not rely on external guidance. I just snagged a C207 and at 77k, with one owner, it's had 7500 miles it's whole life, which is awesome. M276 should run on any oil in the store, even more so with the M272. I usually go with high miles oils, like the thicker range Mobil 1 5w-30 HM or Maxlife. 1000 miles per quart oil capacity is a good rule of thumb for ocis
Everyone please be aware when they read that this person enjoys using high mileage oils (no offense and do as you wish, haha), it is 100 percent recommended against using and very dangerous to use in engines that are not high mileage or engines that have good sealing surfaces. After approximately 2 oil change intervals in a row of high mileage oil, your vehicle can never reliably use another type of non HM oil. For all the people who disagree, notice that I say reliably. The additives in those oils will swell seals and must be continued to be used or those seals will then leak, even if not previously leaking. This is a fact and not to be debated. Tons of info out there and even on the manufacturers websites and on the containers sometimes too. There are additives that do not damage seals and are meant for sporadic use but high mileage oil effectively ruins the vehicle for other oils. While there will be a person who does not read this in full and says their vehicle never had a problem, that is the anomaly and not the standard. Never ever use high mileage oil on any vehicle that does not already have engine leaks or you will be forced to use oil that swells seals for your life of the car and if you sell it and anyone puts regular oil in it, they will be in for a world of hurt with a fully **** engine. I learned not to use these types of oils a very long time ago on parts that cost a few hundred dollars, not worth it on engines and cars worth tens of thousands.
Sorry for this rant but if anyone learns anything in this thread, its that High mileage oils are dangerous MOST of the time and you never use them unless all other options have failed, you can't afford to fix the actual issues or just don't care for your cars properly. (again, I could not care less what others do or prefer but I will educate those that will take the info and research it fully)
Yes, I admit that 3k is not the norm for my e63, but the oil is black, gassy and noticeably thicker after that time, which is also about 5-6 months.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 06-21-2022 at 07:14 PM.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Yawn. Another post based exclusively on theory, not practice. It also goes against the suggestions of every oil company, as well as established ATSM norms. When this theory gets further documented, maybe revisit it then. Easier for someone to say they don't like HiMiles oils, then fine..."don't use them", as they say. imo, it's hard to knock the quality of Valvoline, with Maxlife being one of the biggest selling products on the market. It's also unreasonable to assert unseen and unprovable ~aftereffects~ of a product engineered to do the exact opposite.
Funniest part, it has nothing to do with the original post. To give this mess context again, if you drive an old GLK, you might regret NOT using high miles oils, but hey...I'm not pressuring anyone.
Interesting data point, for me, is how well Maxlife did in PQIA's rando lab tests on off-the-shelf oils. A sparkling result, with volatility nice and low, like a current Euro spec oil. So really, who is to say....I think I know who because facts don't lie.... http://www.pqiamerica.com/June%20201...leage2014.html
Mobil 1™ High Mileage motor oils are made with a proprietary blend of high performance synthetic base stocks fortified with a precisely balanced component additive system designed especially for higher mileage vehicles. Mobil 1 High Mileage motor oils are recommended by ExxonMobil for high mileage vehicles even those that have used lower quality conventional oils.
If your engine has excessive sludge deposits due to less-than-adequate maintenance practices, Mobil 1 High Mileage can help by reducing the sludge left behind in your engine. For severe cases of sludge, short oil change intervals (3000 - 5000 miles) are recommended by ExxonMobil for the first 2-3 oil changes as reduction of the sludge takes place. In cases of engine damage that may have resulted from poor maintenance, even Mobil 1™, synthetic engine oil technology, cannot remedy years of neglect.
How could Mercedes approve such a terrible product?!?!
and yet another answer not addressing the concerns of the post they feel they are commenting on, because yawn, while able to research, unable to research the argument presented. Can you please point in your post to the deleterious effects of the products that the oil companies are responsible for selling that causes the seals to swell? Im sure the manufacturers pull their pants down...for you but its not in the dataset presented. Can you please also make sure to post the recommendations from those manufacturers that once you switch to the high mileage seal swelling products that you must stay with those lines of oils? Oh, you did, and it say that ONLY use in high mileage engines. Perhaps they understood when writing that, that the HM oil is NOT and replacement for regular oil. Can you point to consumers, the majority that don't even know what oil does in a vehicle that get stuck in marketing scams from oil companies and manufacturers that can take your recommendation and argue with a dealer when they void their warranty because they think HM oil is a replacement for a newer car or their old 20k mile GLK? Those consumers will be screwed thinking they followed good advice. Are you telling us that once a manufacturer that gets seals addicted to a product because most consumers are stupid, they sell more of it? Sounds like brilliant marketing for those that have no clue. So, before we say, boy those oil companies are popular, something never addressed or of any concern, lets address oci's and the proper spec of oil. A long OCI is worse in every way than a short OCI other than cost. Every Blackstone analysis is an analysis of threshold of a owner determined economic value. You may appreciate more metals in your oil, more gas, more water, more carbon, but I absolutely do not and most consumers if they can afford it would not either but then again I also don't have any trash in my cars, they are always washed and clean and I replace items before they break and not after. Preventive maintenance is always less expensive than repair.
Please EVERYONE, read the application of the oil in the very last line of the post above. APPLICATION "For engines with higher mileage. Extends the life of the engine". Fancy speak for those unable interpret marketing "only use in high mileage engines of which need their life extended due to seals leaking which were not replaced by owners that cared" the unprovable aftereffects are within that marketing APPLICATION statement. " To use it in a low mileage engine or an engine that does not need it, IS NOT A RECOMMENDED APLLICATION". Mercedes approving a mobil one oil is about a marketing relationship and over time oil recommendations sometimes change for older engines. Do you think Mercedes recommends this for a brand new car? Mobil one is the absolute worst oil of the high end oils. And yeah im sure ill hear blah blah blah but just like all of the oil nerds here, I've tried many and mobil one is thin, burns off in the turbos and had higher consumption that other approved oils. I lastly need to state that Ive used lots of unapproved oils but only after intense research and never in the wrong application and absolutely never if it has an additive that creates a change that is permanent.
Thank you for proving the point, HM oils are dangerous and only for certain applications. People looking to extend engine life do not start with increased OCI's and seal swelllers LMFAO. They start with preventive maintenance, and real data based on their environment and driving style.
Last edited by Baltistyle; 06-21-2022 at 10:01 PM.
Thanks doctor. No pills for me. . That may be how you like to party and perhaps why youre so forgetful (I mean you literally forgot to put valid info to debate) but I just try to operate in reality. Just experience with oils. Ive owned inline four cylinder, inline turbo four cylinder, inline six, v6, bi turbo v6, v6, v8, v8, v8 supercharged, v8 twin turbo, which is a pretty wide breadth of performance across Japanese, American and German, mostly German. I could be a like you and throw out a derogatory personal statement instead of saying how stupid the HM oil recommendation is. Perhaps you actually provide data for the argument instead of name calling. I don't even have a comeback since its been a long time since I was a 12 year old brat.
I imagine you in the Chris Rock Tussin skit. Got a little leak throw some HM oil on it, crank seal leak, throw a little hm on it. Too lazy to do a repair, put a little HM on it. Oh look we ran out of HM oil, lets add some water to it, More HMO. Blinker doesn't work? Did you try the HM?
Hopefully youre not too cold and stiff to appreciate the joke. Throw some HM on it.
And hopefully your last statement is you bowing out and admitting to not having a valid response to seal swellers or recommending HM oil as a blanket for laziness. Because with name calling, good luck.
Fellow members, if you'd like to keep your car as long as possible, use the correct oil. No manufacturer recommends an HM oil in a non HM car and it advisable to not use it unless there is an issue and you are not willing to fix the actual issue. As an example, leaky valve stem seals, sure try the oil and it may work but that does not negate the need for repair and drags it down the road so the repair will oftnn get larger and the persons not able to afford the first repair, never fix the second. Coming from someone that has had ZERO engine issues ever, in any vehicle and currently drives a daily with 250k and does not have any leaks or use HM oil, ever.
and ever so appropriately, YMMV
Standard Test Method for Determining Automotive Engine Oil Compatibility with Typical Seal Elastomers
1. Scope
1.1 This test method covers quantitative procedures for the evaluation of the compatibility of automotive engine oils with several reference elastomers typical of those used in the sealing materials in contact with these oils. Compatibility is evaluated by determining the changes in volume, Durometer A hardness, and tensile properties when the elastomer specimens are immersed in the oil for a specified time and temperature.
1.2 Effective sealing action requires that the physical properties of elastomers used for any seal have a high level of resistance to the liquid or oil in which they are immersed. When such a high level of resistance exists, the elastomer is said to be compatible with the liquid or oil.
NOTE 1: The user of this test method should be proficient in the use of Test Methods D412 (tensile properties), D471 (effect of rubber immersion in liquids), D2240 (Durometer hardness), and D5662 (gear oil compatibility with typical oil seal elastomers), all of which are involved in the execution of the operations of this test method.
1.3 This test method provides a preliminary or first order evaluation of oil/elastomer compatibility only. Because seals might be subjected to static or dynamic loads, or both, and they can operate over a range of conditions, a complete evaluation of the potential sealing performance of any elastomer-oil combination in any service condition usually requires tests additional to those described in this test method.
1.4 The several reference elastomer formulations specified in this test method were chosen to be representative of those used in both heavy-duty diesel engines (detailed in Annex A1) and passenger-car spark-ignition engines (the latter are covered in Annex A2). The procedures described in this test method can, however, also be used to evaluate the compatibility of automotive engine oils with different elastomer types/formulations or different test durations and temperatures to those employed in this test method.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by insame1
Children. This is starting to go no where. agree to disagree.
I suppose addressing a senior member as "children" is supposed to convey a sense of Stoic mindfulness..?
Exactly what this thread needs, more verbal diarrhea.
Maybe our highly skilled friend can get drunk and spew his baseless opinion again in a manner less inflammatory, and more on-topic. It is, afterall, not an opinion piece anyway....,it's a technical one. All of the technicals are laid out already, for those who are able to digest them more completely. I actually apologize on behalf of those members of MB World who struggle to be "relevant" by interjecting themselves on a thread that is otherwise over their heads.
I will say it for the very last time, M272 can run on ANY oil in the store.....given the proper climate and interval. 10k isn't advisable in every case, but the 1000mi /1 quart rule should serve us fine.
I suppose addressing a senior member as "children" is supposed to convey a sense of Stoic mindfulness..?
Exactly what this thread needs, more verbal diarrhea.
Maybe our highly skilled friend can get drunk and spew his baseless opinion again in a manner less inflammatory, and more on-topic. It is, afterall, not an opinion piece anyway....,it's a technical one. All of the technicals are laid out already, for those who are able to digest them more completely. I actually apologize on behalf of those members of MB World who struggle to be "relevant" by interjecting themselves on a thread that is otherwise over their heads.
I will say it for the very last time, M272 can run on ANY oil in the store.....given the proper climate and interval. 10k isn't advisable in every case, but the 1000mi /1 quart rule should serve us fine.
I don't care if you are a founding member or joined yesterday.
If you look at my post in this thread I agree with you but arguing with no chance of an understanding or positive outcome is childish
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
This entire thread should be deleted. It's of absolutely no use whatsoever.
This can be added to the endless list of oil threads which turn into a total waste of time and bandwidth. Nothing but opinions and mindless mudslinging.
IT'S PATHETIC!
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by Silver Shadow
This entire thread should be deleted. It's of absolutely no use whatsoever.
This can be added to the endless list of oil threads which turn into a total waste of time and bandwidth. Nothing but opinions and mindless mudslinging.
IT'S PATHETIC!
If you learned nothing from the material posted, it's 100% entirely on you.
E Coupe C207, ML W166, ML W164, Sprinter 1500/144, W111 SB220 Fintail(s), A5 chassis Beetle 5+5
Originally Posted by MBKLUE
It's no different than washing and waxing your car. Then you go for a spirited drive. The car is faster, handles better, brakes better, idles more smoothly, and has a better exhaust sound.
That's just the way it is and also applies to me.
Actually, no that's actually not "how it works".
Oil degrades over ime in service, that is the friction modifier additives become depleted. So yes, when the FM additive function is restored, it is perceivable.
Actually, no that's actually not "how it works".
Oil degrades over ime in service, that is the friction modifier additives become depleted. So yes, when the FM additive function is restored, it is perceivable.
Slow week at the office?
I think we all know that oil degrades with time otherwise we would not be changing our oil. If you believe you can perceive a difference in engine performance between new engine oil and oil that has 3000, 5000 or 10,000 miles on it (individual reader inserts their choice of change interval that they "know" to be best) then your backside/seat-of-the-pants sensitivity needs to be studied in a laboratory for the benefit of future generations.
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
Originally Posted by MBKLUE
Slow week at the office?
I think we all know that oil degrades with time otherwise we would not be changing our oil. If you believe you can perceive a difference in engine performance between new engine oil and oil that has 3000, 5000 or 10,000 miles on it (individual reader inserts their choice of change interval that they "know" to be best) then your backside/seat-of-the-pants sensitivity needs to be studied in a laboratory for the benefit of future generations.
I was going to say, if you're that sensitive to subtle changes, you should be working as a test driver for an F1 team.
For at least my last 3 cars since 2000 I always notice more power after an oil change, changing it at even 4000 miles. City driving. The anti friction additive package wears out. If i notice it the motor most definitely benefits from less wear. 9-10000 miles is stated not for severe driving . And that’s what the city is ! But 9000 being ok I say is BS even just highway
2023 EQE 500 SUV electric and 2024 Jaguar F-PACE SVR 5.0L
10,000 only? Jaguar say 16,000 miles and that includes the break-in oil. They also say "or a year" regardless of miles. so apparently I can abuse my new motor doing red light drag races for 16.000 miles but if I park it in a garage for a year and only put 20 miles on it that terrible oil has to be changed out or they'll void my warranty. Yeah, right!
I changed my break-in oil at 1200 miles. Guess I'm going to have to let the three stooges gouge up my oil filter housing with a screwdriver once a year to maintian the warranty though.