Tail light problems
#1
Tail light problems
I got a message on the dash of my 2010 GLK 350 with 64,000 miles on it that a tail light was out. I looked and the lower tail light as well as the side marker light on the driver (left) side were both out. I pulled the bulb carrier, and the bulbs looked fine but I changed them anyway. The new bulbs didn't work, either. So, I figure it has to be either the gray bulb carrier or the wiring. I swapped the bulb carrier from the right side (they are plug-compatible) and all the lights worked. So it must be the Carrier. So I ordered a new carrier, installed new bulbs, and the same two lights are out! What gives??
#3
I got a message on the dash of my 2010 GLK 350 with 64,000 miles on it that a tail light was out. I looked and the lower tail light as well as the side marker light on the driver (left) side were both out. I pulled the bulb carrier, and the bulbs looked fine but I changed them anyway. The new bulbs didn't work, either. So, I figure it has to be either the gray bulb carrier or the wiring. I swapped the bulb carrier from the right side (they are plug-compatible) and all the lights worked. So it must be the Carrier. So I ordered a new carrier, installed new bulbs, and the same two lights are out! What gives??
I have had my rear sidemarker go out many times... Mercedes says it is cheap aftermarket bulbs.
I have had the left side marker (2 bulbs) go out 3 times now, the right has gone out 1 or 2 times, the front passenger headlamp has gone out. All within a year. None of mine were a false warning, they were all bad bulbs
The good news is that they are a 5 minute replacement. But I am worried of a bigger electrical problem.
At Mercedes request I am taking it in for them to change the bulbs under warranty so that the problem is documented. They claim to have tested the electrical system and see no problems. But I have replaced literally 10 plus bulbs... the left pair 3 times. There must be an issue.
#5
"At Mercedes request I am taking it in for them to change the bulbs under warranty so that the problem is documented. They claim to have tested the electrical system and see no problems. But I have replaced literally 10 plus bulbs... the left pair 3 times. There must be an issue."
I would think it was obvious I was getting it checked out.
#6
Super Member
Ummm, yeah... from my message...
"At Mercedes request I am taking it in for them to change the bulbs under warranty so that the problem is documented. They claim to have tested the electrical system and see no problems. But I have replaced literally 10 plus bulbs... the left pair 3 times. There must be an issue."
I would think it was obvious I was getting it checked out.
"At Mercedes request I am taking it in for them to change the bulbs under warranty so that the problem is documented. They claim to have tested the electrical system and see no problems. But I have replaced literally 10 plus bulbs... the left pair 3 times. There must be an issue."
I would think it was obvious I was getting it checked out.
my bad.
didn't read it careful enough.
update the result whenever you can.
#7
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Join Date: Apr 2010
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
Of course are "cheap aftermarket bulbs" out there, however some times "cheap arguments" as well. Let MB install their own OEM bulbs if so exists, and note any difference.
Let them tell you what the (average) on-board voltage is - not above 14,5VDC, and make them confirm that spikes higher than that never occurs.
Spikes can arise when heavy loads kicks in and/or voltage regulation is weak or malfunctioning.
Let them tell you what the (average) on-board voltage is - not above 14,5VDC, and make them confirm that spikes higher than that never occurs.
Spikes can arise when heavy loads kicks in and/or voltage regulation is weak or malfunctioning.
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#8
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2004 Volvo XC70; 2012 GLK 350 4matic
I don't think that I have replaced that many bulbs in 2 Volvos (1999 & 2003) running all of the lights full time and a total mileage in excess of 275,000 miles.
Wayne
Wayne
#9
Of course are "cheap aftermarket bulbs" out there, however some times "cheap arguments" as well. Let MB install their own OEM bulbs if so exists, and note any difference.
Let them tell you what the (average) on-board voltage is - not above 14,5VDC, and make them confirm that spikes higher than that never occurs.
Spikes can arise when heavy loads kicks in and/or voltage regulation is weak or malfunctioning.
Let them tell you what the (average) on-board voltage is - not above 14,5VDC, and make them confirm that spikes higher than that never occurs.
Spikes can arise when heavy loads kicks in and/or voltage regulation is weak or malfunctioning.
So we will see. Not that big of a deal... I typically keep my vehicles until the warranty or extended warranty run out. I dont intend to own this one out of warranty.
I will say this vehicle is hands down the easiest vehicle I have ever owned to replace a bulb on. Very impressed, not sure if other things on it are that easy to work on.
#10
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350 GLK, C280
Have the dealer check the alternator for a lose connection and the battery and alternator wiring. Voltage spikes can take out the bulbs but because the important electronics have there own built in regulation, they will be somewhat immune to spikes. These spikes may be hard to see with out a scope. A bad diode connection inside the alternator can cause spikes. And don't forget the ground connection on the alternator and battery at the block. I had an XKE V12 with an aluminum alternator that corroded its ground connection in the alternator. It burned out all sorts of stuff. This amount of bulb failure is not common and can indicate other stuff may be about to fail due to repeated spikes. Get it fixed.
#12
I got a message on the dash of my 2010 GLK 350 with 64,000 miles on it that a tail light was out. I looked and the lower tail light as well as the side marker light on the driver (left) side were both out. I pulled the bulb carrier, and the bulbs looked fine but I changed them anyway. The new bulbs didn't work, either. So, I figure it has to be either the gray bulb carrier or the wiring. I swapped the bulb carrier from the right side (they are plug-compatible) and all the lights worked. So it must be the Carrier. So I ordered a new carrier, installed new bulbs, and the same two lights are out! What gives??
#13
I have the same problem - Passenger/left rear "side marker" light inop - first noticed via the dashboard alert. Confirmed bulb as being good - confirmed bulb socket as having voltage, but voltage appears low at 10.6 VDC (engine not running). All other bulbs are working at this same voltage, except this lower "side marker" bulb. In reading other accounts of this same issue, I see that this may be a known issue. By best guess is that the ground wire is not properly grounded, running to the gray molding assembly. It's a mystery though as to why all the other bulbs work and only one does not work.
#14
I have the same problem - Passenger/left rear "side marker" light inop - first noticed via the dashboard alert. Confirmed bulb as being good - confirmed bulb socket as having voltage, but voltage appears low at 10.6 VDC (engine not running). All other bulbs are working at this same voltage, except this lower "side marker" bulb. In reading other accounts of this same issue, I see that this may be a known issue. By best guess is that the ground wire is not properly grounded, running to the gray molding assembly. It's a mystery though as to why all the other bulbs work and only one does not work.
#16
Thanks.
EDIT: Would this be covered by the extended warranty if it is indeed the carrier?
Last edited by iewoals; 03-10-2015 at 02:59 PM.
#17
Part number are 2048201377 for left side and 2048201477 for the right side. These will work for year 2009-2012.
#19
Rear right side light assembly
my suv has just done the same thing, after reading this form I ordered the part ( assembly) for the bulbs. But, mines is a different part number via my vin number. Part came two days ago and it doesn't work either. Any suggestions out there? Thanks
#20
Try switching the bulb holder from the opposite side (the connector is the same) and check if all the lights work. If they are then it will confirm that your wiring is good and that there is something wrong with the bulb holder/lights.