Originally Posted by navreet

Originally Posted by paulglk

Ok.. i'm super frustrated with the whole lowbeam headlight issue with the GLK. I did do my passengers side replacement in April this year. Sure to heck, the drivers side is now out. My vehicle has 31,000 kms and this sucks.

Anyway, i figured that since i did the passengers side myself (used the telescopic mirror trick) and was able to work the spring properly, i figure i'm smart enough to replace the bulb in the drivers side now. Well, no luck, the spot is just too cramped and i got as far as getting the bulb out (by feel), but the spring came off. Thank the Lord the spring didnt fall into the headlight assembly.

Now i have to try and put the new bulb in and then the spring back into place. I think i may have to tie some fishing line to the spring, just incase i drop it into the headlight assembly. Is it true you cant buy the spring by it self ?

Any tips from someone who's done the drivers side recently on putting the spring back into place?

I'm so tempted to just take the whole front drivers side wheel liner out.

Originally Posted by CPEE

I gave up on trying to get the new bulb installed on our 2010 GLK. Too cold outside and better things to do. Took it to the dealer yesterday and they were good enough to do it at no charge. Because the clip was in my hand rather than attached to the car they said it was quicker and easier to remove the wheel and inner fender liner which didn't seem to take them very long at all and may be an alternative to doing it by feel.

Originally Posted by tbu1n

The GLK user manual tells you that the low beam headlight bulb is replaceable by the owner and yet many people on this forum say its a job for the dealer. Changing the driver side (USA) bulb is said to be the most difficult.

Having spent 2 hours on this 'simple' task, my wife told me to share with the world just how the darn springh/clip goes on. So here I am.
Getting to the bulb is easy. Follow the manual for this. From this point on you are working blind - assuming your hands are not too big to even make a start.

When I got the part where the wires are to be removed I could easily get hold of the clip but my first thought was, do I pull really hard or is there a retainer that needs to be manipulated. The answer is - pull hard.

I am not really sure what sequence got the spring off the bulb. I think I pushed down and it released. I can tell you that down or up, it won't take long to get the desired result - clip/spring off, old bulb out - now the fun starts.

The manual's picture of the bulb and clip/spring assembly is about as much use as a chocolate teapot. Trying to see into the headlight assembly's hole is all but impossible. So with no idea about what you need to do you will spend hours trying to feel your way. I did.

Eventually I found a picture on this forum that showed (upside down) the back of the bulb with the spring/clip hanging in the wrong place. I have used this to illustrate the correct arrangement. See attached photo.

A-B shows a slot that each open end of the spring/clip (1) should be inserted into. C shows the guide and slot that the spring/clip goes into.

The sequence that worked for me was...
1. Put bulb in place and make sure it is seated correctly. The tab goes down. (If I had been able to find some superglue I would have put a tiny, tiny dot on the bulb case because it does not want to stay seated when you take your hand of it. Maybe a tiny piece of double sided tape would be safer!). The point is; be aware that bulb may come unseated.

2. Working blind (you have no choice) insert clip/spring ends (1) into A-B slots on each side on the bulb holder. You should be able to get the spring to stay in place perpedicular to its final position. In other words, sticking out at you.

3. Remove your hand from the hole carefully and then use a mirror of manipulate your head to look and make sure the clip/spring is in the A-B slot. I was initally trying to make the clip/spring was closer to B. I think this was a mistake. I found that squashing the ends (1) towards each other made the clip/spring seat at A better.

4. If the clip spring is seated as described, carefully use your hand to lift and rotate the spring/clip (keeping some upward force) until the clip/spring hits the retaining notches (C) at about position 2.

5. Push the clip home. You may find that you will need to push the clip/spring down so the ends (1) are as-shown in my illustration. I think this ensures that the spring is doing its job. If the ends (1) are closer to B the bulb may fall out.

6. Reassembly after this is very easy.

Finally realizing what needed to be done was a big help to me. I'd say it took 3 or 4 attempts to make it the clip/spring and bulb seat properly. One of the biggest problems is keeping the bulb seated as you manipulate the clip.

A favor. Please don't lambast me about super glue. There is no need to debate it. I was so frustrated I would have done it had it beed to-hand. A clever way of keeping the bulb seated can be your own problem to solve.

Good luck. I hope you can accomplish this 'simple task' without scratched and swollen hands.

Originally Posted by NCBob

I had fun this weekend, too. Replaced the halogens with HIDs purchased from Philips. Also bought the additional harness with relays and resistors that hook up to the battery. Wiring that was the easy part. The bit*h was placing the bulb correctly, holding it in place while pushing down on the spring tab, and then stuffing the additional wiring into the light compartment and trying to close it up with the end-cap. Gaining access was no picnic either. Scarred up hands prove that. The GLK is done. Now comes the wife's C300. Hopefully it will be easier this time. Oh yeah, do not drop a screw or piece from the lights. They go into a black hole in the engine compartment never to be found again.

Originally Posted by Rascally Wabbit

I am doing ours today, upgrading to the Osram rally bulb, 65 watt. Should not cause any issues with the wiring.

Originally Posted by pnoyworx

Easy way is to just do it through the fender, no fuss. You don't even have to remove the wheel.

Originally Posted by nathankershaw

How do you mean "through the fender"?
From the top?