Curt Hitch DIY on MY2011
11-04-2012, 09:28 AM
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2011 GLK350
Curt Hitch DIY on MY2011
slk55er has a great post about his DIY install and I'd like to post some of my tips that may help others with their install.
I went with the the Curt hitch as it has a much cleaner appearance than the Hidden Hitch model. The latter unit exposes the support mounts that hang down from the truck's frame. The Curt hitch's support tube just seems to go up into the bumper and disappear, so the mount to the frame is not even visible. It's quite amazing how perfectly it fits. Before purchasing it, I looked under my bumper and didn't believe there was enough room to install it there!
Got mine for $199 shipped from AutoAnything (tip: check retailmenot.com for current coupons)
Installation tips:
- use Rhino ramps to have the rear of truck lifted
- to facilitate removal of rubber exhaust hangers, mix 1 part dishwashing detergent with 4 parts water. I put about a 2oz mix into a spray bottle
- use a hydraulic car jack to help lift exhaust pipes about an inch, this will take weight off the rubber exhaust hangers and allow them to come off really easy
- spray soapy solution on lower hole of hanger mount, specifically the knobbed part of the metal hanger hook from the exhaust pipes (think of the barbed side of a fish hook).
- you should be able to easily, by hand, or use a 1.5" wide flat pry bar to push out the lower part of the rubber hanger ($1.99 from Harbor Freight)
-when all mounts are removed (a total of 6), lower the jack and put it aside
- remove the chrome exhaust tips. Each one is held by a single hex screw. This will not only prevent them from being scratched, but also allow you more clearance for your tools.
- use a conical "steel step" drill bit to widen hole in frame to allow the use of 7/16" bolts ($5.99 at Harbor Freight). (these are the bolts that need to be fished into place). Be sure to use eye protection *and* gloves. The fresh metal shavings that come off are super hot!
- before using mounting plates, hand thread the bolts into each and every nut on each plate. Some of the nuts have excess paint surrounding it. This will make it easier to bolt everything together when the parts are in place, and prevent cross threading.
- once you have fished the mounting bolts into the frame, leave the fish wire attached (you don't want to remove them until all the other bolts have been finger tightened). You'll also need to pull it through the appropriate holes in the hitch mount.
- use the jack to lift the tow hitch into place, you may need a phone book to place onto the car jack to get a little more height. This will make the job so much easier, given the really tight tolerance of the fit. It would be way too clumsy and tiring to have two other helpers hold the hitch in place while you are trying to screw in the mounting bolts
- after you have finished tightening everything, lower the jack, then use it to lift the exhaust pipes again
- using soapy solution, spray the lower hole in the rubber exhaust hangers that face the hanging hooks. You may need to get both of your hands on them to get the leverage to pop them back on.
This took about 4 hours for me to do, I'm an average home handyman. I am meticulous about my work, so this took me longer than the estimated time. It took me about an hour before figuring out how to pop off the rubber hangers. Having the hydraulic car jack is a must. Once you have that figured out, it takes about 5-10 min to pop off all the hangers!
I'll have a few pictures to post shortly!
I went with the the Curt hitch as it has a much cleaner appearance than the Hidden Hitch model. The latter unit exposes the support mounts that hang down from the truck's frame. The Curt hitch's support tube just seems to go up into the bumper and disappear, so the mount to the frame is not even visible. It's quite amazing how perfectly it fits. Before purchasing it, I looked under my bumper and didn't believe there was enough room to install it there!
Got mine for $199 shipped from AutoAnything (tip: check retailmenot.com for current coupons)
Installation tips:
- use Rhino ramps to have the rear of truck lifted
- to facilitate removal of rubber exhaust hangers, mix 1 part dishwashing detergent with 4 parts water. I put about a 2oz mix into a spray bottle
- use a hydraulic car jack to help lift exhaust pipes about an inch, this will take weight off the rubber exhaust hangers and allow them to come off really easy
- spray soapy solution on lower hole of hanger mount, specifically the knobbed part of the metal hanger hook from the exhaust pipes (think of the barbed side of a fish hook).
- you should be able to easily, by hand, or use a 1.5" wide flat pry bar to push out the lower part of the rubber hanger ($1.99 from Harbor Freight)
-when all mounts are removed (a total of 6), lower the jack and put it aside
- remove the chrome exhaust tips. Each one is held by a single hex screw. This will not only prevent them from being scratched, but also allow you more clearance for your tools.
- use a conical "steel step" drill bit to widen hole in frame to allow the use of 7/16" bolts ($5.99 at Harbor Freight). (these are the bolts that need to be fished into place). Be sure to use eye protection *and* gloves. The fresh metal shavings that come off are super hot!
- before using mounting plates, hand thread the bolts into each and every nut on each plate. Some of the nuts have excess paint surrounding it. This will make it easier to bolt everything together when the parts are in place, and prevent cross threading.
- once you have fished the mounting bolts into the frame, leave the fish wire attached (you don't want to remove them until all the other bolts have been finger tightened). You'll also need to pull it through the appropriate holes in the hitch mount.
- use the jack to lift the tow hitch into place, you may need a phone book to place onto the car jack to get a little more height. This will make the job so much easier, given the really tight tolerance of the fit. It would be way too clumsy and tiring to have two other helpers hold the hitch in place while you are trying to screw in the mounting bolts
- after you have finished tightening everything, lower the jack, then use it to lift the exhaust pipes again
- using soapy solution, spray the lower hole in the rubber exhaust hangers that face the hanging hooks. You may need to get both of your hands on them to get the leverage to pop them back on.
This took about 4 hours for me to do, I'm an average home handyman. I am meticulous about my work, so this took me longer than the estimated time. It took me about an hour before figuring out how to pop off the rubber hangers. Having the hydraulic car jack is a must. Once you have that figured out, it takes about 5-10 min to pop off all the hangers!
I'll have a few pictures to post shortly!
Last edited by khom; 11-05-2012 at 11:04 AM.
11-04-2012, 05:19 PM
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2010 GLK 220CDI 4M BlueEFFICIENCY
NOTE for potential MY 2013 Curt hitch "DIYers"
Nice supplement to the DYI!
From "the other GLK forum" is there two consistent reports that the Curt 13059 Rear Trailer Hitch Receiver is not fit for the facelifted GLK. Problem is "bumper cover and chrome trim". In courtesy of Trasher.
From "the other GLK forum" is there two consistent reports that the Curt 13059 Rear Trailer Hitch Receiver is not fit for the facelifted GLK. Problem is "bumper cover and chrome trim". In courtesy of Trasher.
