For those with the GLK250, can a small donut fit in the tire well?

Feeling so paranoid about not having a spare...

 

I am not ( yet ) with GLK250, just did a test drive last week. There is no "tire well" in the trunk. The trunk area is not big and under the trunk floor cover there is small space with a collapsible shopping crate. Under the second floor cover just a fuse box and a AdBlue tank lid. This AdBlue tank takes place of the spare tire.

Read tread https://mbworld.org/forums/glk-class...n-flats-2.html

 

Sigh.. with the added cost of run-flats and possible flush/refills of the adblue solution.. I'm wondering if it really offsets the fuel costs against the V6.

In some places, the diesel costs more than gas which eats into the savings too.

the only reason to buy the 250 is fuel savings right?

 

I use my 2010 RAV4 Sport with RFT for almost 3 years - all is good. OK, maybe they are a bit heavier with little more noise, but so far so good. The Mercedes soundproofing is MUCH better than Toyota.

The AdBlue tank in GLK250 is ~7gal. The 2.5gal canister in the local Walmart is ~$11 and you can add it yourself.

It's a big discussion gasoline vs. diesel. I like the 369 lb-ft of torque. On the long run diesel beats gasoline.

How about this link http://news.wyotech.edu/post/2012/03...diesel-engines ?

 

My sister had runflats on her bmw 3-series. She got a flat and took it to a local tire shop and they just patched it. She drove it patched for over a year with no problems.

 

This is what the area under the rear floor looks like.

 

Thanks so much!
Now, I'm wondering what the cost analysis is when taking into account the added price of run-flats. This article implies they wear out much much faster

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2...-buy-them.html

 

Diesel engines have many advantages.
Fuel savings should be lower on the list.
Maintenance will not be much more than other vehicles.
Run-flats are actually a +.
BUT, you need to love diesels to own one. If you haven't had one, make this a first one. You will not regret.

 

Just to be clear ... are you feeling paranoid because you don't trust the runflats, or because you intend to replace them with conventional tires?

 

Let's clear up some of this stuff...

Tires: I have not been a fan of run flats in larger/heavier SUV's - like ML and GL - to me they have a noticeably harsher ride - even when fresh - on the lighter/shorter wheel base dirivng a new/new I don't get that same type of harsh feeling.
Under a "nrmal" leak - thru the tread portion - run flats are designed with very stiff sidewalls to allow you to move off-traffic even if the leak is dramatic under low/no pressure - with "standard" tires if you have a dramatic leak/blowout you will trash the tire easily as the wheel cuts the sidewall when low/no pressure - "more" runflats can be reapired and "less" "standard" tires can be repaired.
Under "slow" leak thru the tread - Road Side Service at least in my area can reapir either on site... under dramatic blow out then Road Side "should" cover a Run Flat tow to the nearest MB dealer...
On tire life - my personal estimate is Run Flats will have longer life than Run Flats on heavier ML/GL - but yes, Run Flats will not - my opinion - run 30K+ like some "2nd set" tire replacements can.
I say 2nd set replacement - since my personal suspicion based on my experience is that tire manufacturers supply OE tires for manuf with softer compound - because frankly ALL 1st manuf tire sets last like 25% less than 2nd set tire replacements same tire - go figure that !

Maintenance - Maintenance for the 250BT is the same with two exceptions - AdBlue/DEF at 10K miles - as prior noted generic/Peak-recommended is easy DIY - get one MB bottle to cut/use as a funnel - and will save you over $150. 2nd additional cost is the diesel fuel filter which for ML350BT is every 20K miles - I have not drilled down into the online Owner's Manual to check on mbusa.com owner support section to see if 250BT is the same interval yet.

Fuel Economy Savings: Are in direct realtion to fuel cost - my area disel is the same as premium for the 350 gasser - and how many miles you plan to drive. Frankly, the "guesstimate" on increased fuel economy real dollars with equal fuel cost is about 30%

Driveability: The GLK350 can do amazing things in S mode - especially when using paddle shifting correctly - that 300hp can really kick. That said, the 250BT can be amazing too, especially around town, with that torque with no paddles.

My opinion right now the 2013 GLK is severely under rated and severey under reviewed - the GLK350 well driven will kick butt - BMW "sport" X3 guys, paying more - get a 4-banger and the GLK has 300hp 350 engine. The GLK250BT kicks butt - this isn't a wanna-be VW truck engine..

Keep the beat !

 

Just the user feedback from this link, in general people dont like them at all. Also choosing the bluetec because of lower gas costs, but are those savings going to be eaten up by faster wearing tire and more expensive replacements

http://www.autoguide.com/auto-news/2...-buy-them.html

 

You can count me among those that don't like them. In theory, they're a great idea, but they fall short in application. Runflats are heavy, ride harshly, and increase the risk of wheel damage. I took the runflats off my BMW and the difference is pretty amazing. I keep hearing they're getting better, but all that tells me is that the early versions must have been truly awful. I suspect airless tires currently under development will eventually solve the problems, but they offer some aesthetic challenges ...




Although it's too early to say for sure, diesels do tend to hold their value better than their gasoline counterparts. If that holds true for the GLK250, you'll save money on fuel and depreciation, which should offset the additional maintenance costs and then some.

 

Canadian GLK250 has standard tires with a fill kit. When the runflats wear out and you replace them you have that option.

 

Doesn't it depend on the kind of runflats? Some runflats, have a plastic core inside. The rest of the tire is the same. The only difference in those tires is the added weight of the plastic core, but otherwise the ride should be the same. The side wall reinforced runflats would have an effect on the ride.





Just looked it up. Mercedes uses reinforced sidewall protection.

 

If I'm not mistaken, that's Michelin's PAX system, which requires special wheels and special tires. Michelin stopped development on the PAX system several years ago.

 

Good eye, the tire shop has to be certified to do any tire changes and requires specialized equipment. The PAX tires were unique sizes IIRC, and they made some run-flat tires look cheap.

 

This is a very timely discussion for me as I need to get 2 new tires in the next couple of weeks in order to pass inspection. Not only am I having trouble finding them in stock near me, I'd really rather just go to a regular tire. Pricing is relatively equal at the moment, but seems like it would be easier to just go with what's most common.

So... I'd REALLY like to get a spare "donut," but from what I'm hearing there are none that fit underneath the cargo area. Is anyone doing anything like this in a creative way? One idea is just to carry one in the baggage area in a box or something, but that seems lame. Looking for some options. Thanks!

 

I ditched the OE run-flats more than 4 years ago, have never had a tire issue before or since. The ride is also much better than on run-flats.

I advise carrying a small tire patch/plug repair kit and a small air compressor just for emergencies. You can get both for under $20 these days.

Between that and AAA which costs maybe $50 a year, you shouldn't need anything else.

 

Thanks for the input. I ordered 2 "normal" tires from Amazon. After calling around the local shops, it seems that run flat tires are actually hard to come by--they said they'd need to be special ordered. I too have been carrying a plug kit, an electric pump, and a can of fix-a-flat ever since I bought the car.

 

When was the last time you had a flat? Most flats are from slow leaks. With a tire monitor system, you can detect them before any real tire damage occurs. (Most tire failures are from running for long periods of time underinflated.)

I am running 4 regular tires and carry this and a AAA card.
https://slime.com/collections/all-in...ire-repair-kit

Even the spare in the GLK350 has to be inflated before you use it.

 

It's been a while for sure, but it's not never. My work often involves driving around construction sites, so I think my risk versus others', is probably a bit higher.

 

Same here. The last tire problem I had, was on the way to grocery store, 2-3 miles from home, the TPMS warning went off - I checked TPMS, left rear losing air pretty quick ... I pulled over, repaired it using the plug kit (and portable electric air pump) in about 10 minutes - effortless and no dirty hands after

 

What is that thing you pulled out of it?

 

To this day, I haven't the slightest idea what that is. I was shocked when I pulled it out.
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The best I can describe... a thin piece of aluminum, which is shiny on one side and has that "cross-hatch" pattern on the other side, with a shape like a knife blade.

We live in a semi-rural area, where the "main" road to civilization is a two lane blacktop with not much traffic ... I'm completely perplexed where the tire (left rear) picked that up. That piece should have been laying flat on the road ... how it jammed itself into the tire will be a mystery

 

I think the cross-hatching is just from being scraped up on the road, but could be wrong.

They key to how it got into your tire is that it's in the rear tire. Your front tire hit it, and kicked it up into a position where it contacted the rear tire with the point toward the tire and the "base" on the road, allowing the tire's forward momentum and rotation to do the stabbing.