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Almost all accessory power leads run through the computer. Relays are a thing of the past. So the sunroof motor is powered through a SCR or triac in the control computer system.
No need to go to this trouble. The power cord that comes with a dash cam is long enough to easily route behind trim panels and connect under the dash.
How did you glue it on? Will the adhesive hold up the weight long term?
The camera comes with two adhesive pads. I ended up buying some trim tape from an auto parts store because it felt stronger. So far so good. The more it gets touched, the weaker the bond will get, but you don't really ever have to touch it once it is installed. It barely fits in there without bumping into the rear view mirror. If you are under 6'2" you won't have a problem.
I installed an 0801 just to the right of the mirror next to the plastic housing. I tucked the wire under the headliner and then in the A column cover. Didn't remove anything, just nudged it in. When I got to the glovebox I just spliced into the wire going to the cigarette plug. Had to remove the side cover to get to it but that wasn't a big deal. Seems to work fine. Newegg had a sale on the Ojocam version for $80. That was a deal.
I installed an 0801 just to the right of the mirror next to the plastic housing. I tucked the wire under the headliner and then in the A column cover. Didn't remove anything, just nudged it in. When I got to the glovebox I just spliced into the wire going to the cigarette plug. Had to remove the side cover to get to it but that wasn't a big deal. Seems to work fine. Newegg had a sale on the Ojocam version for $80. That was a deal.
I'm curious to know how long it holds up mounted directly to the glass, which makes it impossible to cover with a sun shade while parked in the hot sun. This was the main reason I mounted the camera to the black plastic. I can cover the camera with a sun shade, and while the interior of the car still gets hot if it sits more than 10 minutes, at least it has some protection.
I installed an 0801 just to the right of the mirror next to the plastic housing. I tucked the wire under the headliner and then in the A column cover. Didn't remove anything, just nudged it in. When I got to the glovebox I just spliced into the wire going to the cigarette plug. Had to remove the side cover to get to it but that wasn't a big deal. Seems to work fine. Newegg had a sale on the Ojocam version for $80. That was a deal.
I just plugged into the socket in the trunk and ran the long wire across the headliner to the front of the car. The supplied cord is 'just barely' long enough. Its almost entirely invisible except where it plugs into the camera
I'm curious to know how long it holds up mounted directly to the glass, which makes it impossible to cover with a sun shade while parked in the hot sun. This was the main reason I mounted the camera to the black plastic. I can cover the camera with a sun shade, and while the interior of the car still gets hot if it sits more than 10 minutes, at least it has some protection.
Good point. I wasn't satisfied with the way it sat after looking at that option. The windshield seemed sturdier too. I was thinking of cutting a little piece of mylar coated bubble wrap into a small credit card sized square to use between the camera and the windshield on an extra hot day. It should slide and stay in place. I'm thinking of this for the radar detector too.
I just tucked the wire under the headliner and then in the A column trim piece. It tucked in easily and well without showing or falling out. It was routed down to behind the glove box. Fairly easy install. My job looks remarkably similar to icool007's but no wiring falling out at all. Maybe tuck a little deeper? Perhaps using a plastic autobody "spatula"?
I had my first "film at 11:00" event last month. Someone bumped my GLK and then wouldn't pull over. I dialed 911 while tailing them. I had to since they had paper plates and wouldn't be able to identify them later. The police took over my tail and pulled them over. They protested they hadn't done anything. I pulled the micro-SD card out of the 0801 and handed it to the cops who slipped it into their laptop and took a look. I guess they hadn't seen many because they were beyond excited. They took their laptop with the card and video to the other car and showed her the clip. She was still balky so I sent a YouTube of the video to her insurance company that promptly paid the claim. That paid for itself several times over. I still tell friends the story and the reaction of the cops. Priceless.
After reading through this thread, I realized that maybe I should have posted this here before starting a new thread. I'm curious if anyone has looked into recording the feed from the surround view system instead of installing more cameras. The surround view already gives me a bunch of very clear cameras with pretty decent angles, it would be much easier just to record those instead of installing additional cameras and running more wires.
Wolfbox G900 Pro Front and Rear Dashcam Install in 2012 GLK350
Sharing my in-progress Wolfbox G900 Pro front and rear dashcam in the 2012 GLK350. Went this route because my 2012 does NOT have backup camera (was spoiled with it in my 2018 SQ5) and the factory MB software the GLK350 came with does not have an option for me to just add a generic one and plug in on the backside of the interior dash.
Surprisingly difficult wiring installation steps encountered for both front hardwiring as well as for the rear dashcam wire routing to the rear trunk/boot. Will address challenges encountered on the 2012 GLK350 for front and rear separately:
REAR DASHCAM WIRING:
1st challenge: Getting the rear trim off the rear trunk/boot was NOT easy. Broke at least 2 trim removal tools trying to remove the black plastic at the bottom of the rear trunk, the rear trunk big plastic section, and the passenger side of the plastic trim cover right by the rear glass. You need to have a metal trim removal tool in addition to knowing you're probably going to break a few of the plastic trim tools because the leverage needed to get the trim panels loose from the fasteners was quite high.
2nd challenge: Trying to run the cable through the protective rubber boot located at the top of the rear trunk. The rubber boot has a very thick pre-existing wiring loom in it and it was challenging to run the dashcam cable through the tight boot without it getting snagged on any of the current wires. Initially tried using a toilet snake but the snake tool was too big and kept catching on existing wires. Ended up using a long flexible grab tool and taped over the grab hooks and then used liquid wrench / WD40 to lubricate it before sending it through.
3rd challenge: After I finally got everything through the rubber boot I then encountered difficulty trying to reinstall the rubber boot back into its grommets. You CANNOT just shove it back on because one has to remove the plastic cup in the 2 grommet holes first (and there is a special technique for that because they're are 4 retention tabs on each of the cup grommets that was not initially apparent).
4th challenge: After I thought I was done with that, I realized that the rear dash cam also has a red wire used to connect to the wire that goes to the reverse lights. When connected correctly to a reverse light wire, this red wire sends the signal to the Wolfbox mirror display to activate reverse lines in its rear view display. The mirror display works as a regular rear dashcam if you don't connect this, but one of the key reasons I got it was specifically to assist with backup parking. This red wire must also be extended and routed back through the same rubber boot, between the rear headliner, and then channeled down to where the wires go to the rear taillight in order to take advantage of this function.
5th challenge: Mounting the rear dashcam, I had to take out the rear popout cover beside the license plate area and drill as passthrough hole for the rear dashcam wiring. Not particularly difficult if you have a drill and bit that can cut through hard plastic, but it was messy - plastic shavings everywhere. Strongly recommend you do this over a trash can and not over your kitchen sink where it might cause a clog.
FRONT DASHCAM WIRING:
Challenge 1: The Wolfbox G900 Pro front dashcam mirror install fits "ok". I'll explain why I say that.
Now I knew beforehand that the mirror itself would have to be offset some to the left of the existing mirror for the front facing dashcam to be unobstructed.
What I didn't expect was that the existing 2 large bumps on top of the mirror would also force an offset of the mounting. The existing straps longer provided IMHO feel beyond a normal stretch limit for rubber and I believe that they are a little too short to fit directly over the 2 top bumps ot the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. The Wolfbox G900 Pro mirror dashcam offends my personal aesthetics somewhat because it looks super bulky mounted on top of the chunky stock 2012 GLK350 mirror, but because I didn't want to lose my Homelink garage button capabilities in the bottom of my existing mirror and replace the stock mirror in its entirety with a replacement mounting kit that came with my Wolfbox Pro, I had to accept it.
On the 2012 GLK350 the 2 large humps on top of the stock rear view mirror are considerable and I had to use the larger rubber retainers for the Wolfbox mirror to even have a chance at being secured. I felt as though the stretch of the 2 longer rubber retainers exceeded my comfort level when trying to fit the Wolfbox mirror directly over the 2 top bumps. The stretch seemed more acceptable and not quite past the point of too much if it was offset slightly towards the driver without the rubber directly over the bumps. I know other owners that have managed to mount directly over the stock bumps - will depend on whether you're comfortable with that.
Easiest part was hiding the cable along the upper passenger trim from the front mirror to the rear. This part took relatively little time and was easy compared to what it took to get to this point.
There are 3 sets of cables coming out of the Wolfbox G900 Pro to be routed during install:
1) G900 Pro mirror power cable
2) GPS sensor which i believe also functions as a movement / shock sensor
3) Rear dashcam cable connection.
Challenge 2: trying to hardwire the Front mirror to an existing fuse is hampered by both the bottom driver's side footwell cover as well as by the inability to route a cable easily from the cabin to the moisture protected section of the engine fusebox located near the top of the drivers' side windshield. When I attempted to poke the foam that's there between the engine bay and the drivers' side footwell it gave some but was clearly not going to be easy to fish a cable through the foam down to where the driver's footwell was. I attempted to fish a flexible snake camera to see if it was even possible to route a cable through the firewall but got nowhere after almost 90 minutes of attempting. Tried it from both the engine side to the footwell side, as well as reverse to no success. For now, I'm going to run a hardwire from the G900 Pro mirror down to an open port on my cigarette lighter adapter port until I can see if I've got options to a fusebox located in the passenger side behind the footwell. Preliminary checks of 2012 GLK350 fusebox schematics for the passenger footwell location do NOT look promising...
Plan on finally getting the extension wire connected to the rear dashcam red wire long enough to reach the passenger side reverse lights. Once I get to that point will post more updates. Unboxing Woilfbox G900 Pro Wolfbox G900 Pro with optional mounting accessories including license plate frame camera mount. Trunk handles have to be pried off with flathead screwdriver first to access the 2 screws to be removed. 2 screws to be removed once handle covers are pried off. Trunk/boot light wiring to be disconnected. Trunk/boot power switch wiring must also be disconnected to remove rear trim. 15 interior fasteners (orange) that have to be loosened in order to view the rear trunk lid/boot interior. After the rear panel's 15 orange fasteners have been pried off this is what you see for the rear trunk interior. Passenger side rear glass frame plastic that has to be removed in order to run the rear dashcam wiring to the rear. The rubber boot that the electrical wiring loom has to be routed through. Passenger side rubber boot detail for wiring loom routing. Rear dashcam red wire that has to connect to the reverse light wire so that the Wolfbox G900 Pro mirror knows to trigger reverse parking lines in its display. The Wolfbox rear dashcam can be disconnected so that you don’t have to try and route a dashcam through the rubber boots. Recommend using a permanent marker to illustrate where the cable lines up to prevent damage due to incorrect positioning of the very small guidance tab. 2 top bumps on top of the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. Not sure what they’re for. The offset of the Wolfbox G900 Pro if you don’t have the rubber directly over the two top bumps of the stock mirror. Side view of the chunkiness of the Wolfbox G900 and the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. Backside view of the stock mirror with Wolfbox G900 Pro mounted. Wires to be cleaned up after finalizing hardwire connections.
Drill bits used to create a hole in the rear dashcam popout plate to allow the rear dashcam cable to be connected. NOTE: will need to caulk/waterseal any gaps to prevent water from entering this hole after running the cable through. Drill bits used to drill the hole in the pop out rear cover large enough to allow the rear dashcam cable to go through.
Last edited by eg1HnS4AHskZ; Jan 30, 2026 at 12:15 AM.
Reason: added photos
Final step in the wiring is to connect the trigger wire for the rear camera to a wire that controls the reverse lights. Anyone have a wiring diagram or can confirm which wire in the picture below controls the reverse lights on a 2012 GLK350 please?
Need this connected to trigger reverse lines on the Wolfbox G900 Pro reverse camera when I put the car in reverse.
Sharing my in-progress Wolfbox G900 Pro front and rear dashcam in the 2012 GLK350. Went this route because my 2012 does NOT have backup camera (was spoiled with it in my 2018 SQ5) and the factory MB software the GLK350 came with does not have an option for me to just add a generic one and plug in on the backside of the interior dash.
Surprisingly difficult wiring installation steps encountered for both front hardwiring as well as for the rear dashcam wire routing to the rear trunk/boot. Will address challenges encountered on the 2012 GLK350 for front and rear separately:
REAR DASHCAM WIRING:
1st challenge: Getting the rear trim off the rear trunk/boot was NOT easy. Broke at least 2 trim removal tools trying to remove the black plastic at the bottom of the rear trunk, the rear trunk big plastic section, and the passenger side of the plastic trim cover right by the rear glass. You need to have a metal trim removal tool in addition to knowing you're probably going to break a few of the plastic trim tools because the leverage needed to get the trim panels loose from the fasteners was quite high.
2nd challenge: Trying to run the cable through the protective rubber boot located at the top of the rear trunk. The rubber boot has a very thick pre-existing wiring loom in it and it was challenging to run the dashcam cable through the tight boot without it getting snagged on any of the current wires. Initially tried using a toilet snake but the snake tool was too big and kept catching on existing wires. Ended up using a long flexible grab tool and taped over the grab hooks and then used liquid wrench / WD40 to lubricate it before sending it through.
3rd challenge: After I finally got everything through the rubber boot I then encountered difficulty trying to reinstall the rubber boot back into its grommets. You CANNOT just shove it back on because one has to remove the plastic cup in the 2 grommet holes first (and there is a special technique for that because they're are 4 retention tabs on each of the cup grommets that was not initially apparent).
4th challenge: After I thought I was done with that, I realized that the rear dash cam also has a red wire used to connect to the wire that goes to the reverse lights. When connected correctly to a reverse light wire, this red wire sends the signal to the Wolfbox mirror display to activate reverse lines in its rear view display. The mirror display works as a regular rear dashcam if you don't connect this, but one of the key reasons I got it was specifically to assist with backup parking. This red wire must also be extended and routed back through the same rubber boot, between the rear headliner, and then channeled down to where the wires go to the rear taillight in order to take advantage of this function.
5th challenge: Mounting the rear dashcam, I had to take out the rear popout cover beside the license plate area and drill as passthrough hole for the rear dashcam wiring. Not particularly difficult if you have a drill and bit that can cut through hard plastic, but it was messy - plastic shavings everywhere. Strongly recommend you do this over a trash can and not over your kitchen sink where it might cause a clog.
FRONT DASHCAM WIRING:
Challenge 1: The Wolfbox G900 Pro front dashcam mirror install fits "ok". I'll explain why I say that.
Now I knew beforehand that the mirror itself would have to be offset some to the left of the existing mirror for the front facing dashcam to be unobstructed.
What I didn't expect was that the existing 2 large bumps on top of the mirror would also force an offset of the mounting. The existing straps longer provided IMHO feel beyond a normal stretch limit for rubber and I believe that they are a little too short to fit directly over the 2 top bumps ot the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. The Wolfbox G900 Pro mirror dashcam offends my personal aesthetics somewhat because it looks super bulky mounted on top of the chunky stock 2012 GLK350 mirror, but because I didn't want to lose my Homelink garage button capabilities in the bottom of my existing mirror and replace the stock mirror in its entirety with a replacement mounting kit that came with my Wolfbox Pro, I had to accept it.
On the 2012 GLK350 the 2 large humps on top of the stock rear view mirror are considerable and I had to use the larger rubber retainers for the Wolfbox mirror to even have a chance at being secured. I felt as though the stretch of the 2 longer rubber retainers exceeded my comfort level when trying to fit the Wolfbox mirror directly over the 2 top bumps. The stretch seemed more acceptable and not quite past the point of too much if it was offset slightly towards the driver without the rubber directly over the bumps. I know other owners that have managed to mount directly over the stock bumps - will depend on whether you're comfortable with that.
Easiest part was hiding the cable along the upper passenger trim from the front mirror to the rear. This part took relatively little time and was easy compared to what it took to get to this point.
There are 3 sets of cables coming out of the Wolfbox G900 Pro to be routed during install:
1) G900 Pro mirror power cable
2) GPS sensor which i believe also functions as a movement / shock sensor
3) Rear dashcam cable connection.
Challenge 2: trying to hardwire the Front mirror to an existing fuse is hampered by both the bottom driver's side footwell cover as well as by the inability to route a cable easily from the cabin to the moisture protected section of the engine fusebox located near the top of the drivers' side windshield. When I attempted to poke the foam that's there between the engine bay and the drivers' side footwell it gave some but was clearly not going to be easy to fish a cable through the foam down to where the driver's footwell was. I attempted to fish a flexible snake camera to see if it was even possible to route a cable through the firewall but got nowhere after almost 90 minutes of attempting. Tried it from both the engine side to the footwell side, as well as reverse to no success. For now, I'm going to run a hardwire from the G900 Pro mirror down to an open port on my cigarette lighter adapter port until I can see if I've got options to a fusebox located in the passenger side behind the footwell. Preliminary checks of 2012 GLK350 fusebox schematics for the passenger footwell location do NOT look promising...
Plan on finally getting the extension wire connected to the rear dashcam red wire long enough to reach the passenger side reverse lights. Once I get to that point will post more updates. Unboxing Woilfbox G900 Pro Wolfbox G900 Pro with optional mounting accessories including license plate frame camera mount. Trunk handles have to be pried off with flathead screwdriver first to access the 2 screws to be removed. 2 screws to be removed once handle covers are pried off. Trunk/boot light wiring to be disconnected. Trunk/boot power switch wiring must also be disconnected to remove rear trim. 15 interior fasteners (orange) that have to be loosened in order to view the rear trunk lid/boot interior. After the rear panel's 15 orange fasteners have been pried off this is what you see for the rear trunk interior. Passenger side rear glass frame plastic that has to be removed in order to run the rear dashcam wiring to the rear. The rubber boot that the electrical wiring loom has to be routed through. Passenger side rubber boot detail for wiring loom routing. Rear dashcam red wire that has to connect to the reverse light wire so that the Wolfbox G900 Pro mirror knows to trigger reverse parking lines in its display. The Wolfbox rear dashcam can be disconnected so that you don’t have to try and route a dashcam through the rubber boots. Recommend using a permanent marker to illustrate where the cable lines up to prevent damage due to incorrect positioning of the very small guidance tab. 2 top bumps on top of the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. Not sure what they’re for. The offset of the Wolfbox G900 Pro if you don’t have the rubber directly over the two top bumps of the stock mirror. Side view of the chunkiness of the Wolfbox G900 and the stock 2012 GLK350 mirror. Backside view of the stock mirror with Wolfbox G900 Pro mounted. Wires to be cleaned up after finalizing hardwire connections.
Drill bits used to create a hole in the rear dashcam popout plate to allow the rear dashcam cable to be connected. NOTE: will need to caulk/waterseal any gaps to prevent water from entering this hole after running the cable through. Drill bits used to drill the hole in the pop out rear cover large enough to allow the rear dashcam cable to go through.
Thanks for choosing Wolfbox G900 Pro and sharing your install experience. We have bracket for you so you don't have to hang it over the factory mirror. Link here: https://wolfbox.com/products/wolfbox...50-g840s-g840h
Mercedes SLR McLaren 722 S Is Extremely Rare Example Modified by McLaren
Slideshow: A one-of-one U.S.-spec Mercedes-Benz SLR McLaren Roadster became even rarer after a factory-backed transformation at McLaren's headquarters.
