Would you buy another one? 2013 GLK 250 BT
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2014 glk 250BT (RIP, 3/1/17}, 2010 C300
I bought a 13 and five months later MB bought the car back for what I paid due to them being unable to clear the recurring engine light.
Having had the car for a while I decided to buy a 14 and I am mostly satisified with over 11K miles in 7 months. I've had a couple of O2 sensors replaced, after engine lights along with the AdBlue software fix.
Am I satisfied with the car, yes I am.
Comfortable drive, great fuel economy, and it meets my needs.
Having had the car for a while I decided to buy a 14 and I am mostly satisified with over 11K miles in 7 months. I've had a couple of O2 sensors replaced, after engine lights along with the AdBlue software fix.
Am I satisfied with the car, yes I am.
Comfortable drive, great fuel economy, and it meets my needs.
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2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe; 2011 GLK 350 w/ Premium 1, Multimedia & Sport Appearance; I LOVE IT!
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
Indeed!
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
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Indeed!
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
FWIW, many reports of disk warping are not accurate. But easiest solution is to change them anyway.
The rotors can have uneven build up of pad material. Or "imprinting" - a change in composition of disks when pads are hot and in close proximity to disks. Like having foot on brake after coming to a stop. Sometime, the disks have run-out due to improper mounting such as dirt on hub face. The dial indicator runout is blamed on "warping"
This is a good article on the phenomenon:
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-su...nd-other-myths
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
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I read this thread from end to end and did not see OP mention warping. I even tried the "find" function and it only found your posts. That prompted my post. Maybe I missed something.
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
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From: Los Angeles
2013 Infiniti G37 Coupe; 2011 GLK 350 w/ Premium 1, Multimedia & Sport Appearance; I LOVE IT!
Indeed!
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
To give the benefit of the doubt to that other poster, the two wheel drive models might require a different rotor, but the pads are the same as are the rotors for the 4matics in both gas and diesel. I think that was a presumption without foundation to enforce a point, erroneous as it might be.
The common denominator with the brake rotor "problem", is different drivers and different driving styles. I'm still strongly on the side of 'operator error' for that whole discussion. Heat transfer from the rotors is basically the same for most formulations of castings for the rotors. Heat is what can warp them and that comes mostly from driving style and a heavy vehicle with high performance. Even a soccer mom can ride the brakes and overheat them taking the kids to school.
I recently re-did my brakes and at no time when I was shopping for pads and rotors did I see any distinction about 2WD vs. 4WD or gas vs. diesel, so I have to think they are all the same..
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
You've forced me to check! Take it to the bank! They ARE all the same. Rotor for the base GLK350 is part #204 421 2912. Same as for the 4matics.
Edit: Pads for the 2WD are the same also, part #0064 202 420.
Last edited by Bob338; Dec 22, 2014 at 02:42 PM.
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14 GLK 250 BT
Not much has changed eh, other than someone trying to inject doubt that has no nexus on the op's topic?
Right now, i am driving the 12 VW T TDI, which in terms of the thread topic has nothing much to do with the OP's original issue/s 5 sets of brake pads, etc. . Brake pads and rotors ( on 4 diesels) have not been, are not, and not foreseen to be an issue. The 12 VW T TDI is app 700+ #'s heavier, which in theory should wear far faster than on the MB GLK 250 BT; boringly NOT ! They all are pretty low wearing. On a 2003 VW Jetta TDI @ 187,000 miles, the oem brake pads and rotors are original.
Right now, i am driving the 12 VW T TDI, which in terms of the thread topic has nothing much to do with the OP's original issue/s 5 sets of brake pads, etc. . Brake pads and rotors ( on 4 diesels) have not been, are not, and not foreseen to be an issue. The 12 VW T TDI is app 700+ #'s heavier, which in theory should wear far faster than on the MB GLK 250 BT; boringly NOT ! They all are pretty low wearing. On a 2003 VW Jetta TDI @ 187,000 miles, the oem brake pads and rotors are original.
Last edited by Rdub; Dec 23, 2014 at 03:23 PM.
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From: Boston, MA
25 GLE53, 24 Macan, 15 GLK350
We have a '10 GLK 350 4matic with 125,000 miles on it (incredibly, 90% of the mileage is from shorter trips, say under 10 miles). Its been rock solid, aside from some initial trouble with the power tailgate. We just did our front brakes for the third time, so I can't complain about brake issues. I'd buy another in a minute; we plan on doing just that when the updated GLC model is introduced. Only question is whether to consider the diesel (shorter trips have me leaning against that).
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2014 glk 250BT (RIP, 3/1/17}, 2010 C300
Why wouldn't you consider the diesel for shorter trips? It still gets better fuel mileage than the gas version. Yeah diesel is more expensive but you know that low gas prices won't last, and diesel ets you more energy for your money.
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14 GLK 250 BT
We have a '10 GLK 350 4matic with 125,000 miles on it (incredibly, 90% of the mileage is from shorter trips, say under 10 miles). Its been rock solid, aside from some initial trouble with the power tailgate. We just did our front brakes for the third time, so I can't complain about brake issues. I'd buy another in a minute; we plan on doing just that when the updated GLC model is introduced. Only question is whether to consider the diesel (shorter trips have me leaning against that).
Fully.com shows 14 GLK 250 BT @ 30.7 mpg /GLK 350 @ 23.5 mpg. Diesel gets 30.6% better mpg, not to mention much greater torque, etc. . So over 125,000 miles, one uses 4,072 gals vs 5,319 gals = 1,247 gals MORE ??? Diesels resale value also tends to be higher than the GLK 350 and the acquisition cost for the 14 GLK 250 BT is minus - $500 MSRP cheaper.
Last edited by Rdub; Dec 31, 2014 at 06:16 PM.
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From: Boston, MA
25 GLE53, 24 Macan, 15 GLK350
The reason I was thinking it didnt make sense for shorter trips was related to the blue fluid; someone told me it was used on every start and the expense could be significant enough to offset savings. Not true?
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From: Redding, CA
'85 190D , '12 E350 BlueTec, '13 GLK 250 BlueTec
It's used all the time, for starts and while engine is running. DEF is cheap and it's universally available. There are even pumps at some truck stops that dispense it. A two and half quart bottle runs under $15 at NAPA. Hardly worth figuring in the cost of operation. For less than $35 that runs me 19K miles. It's more than offset by cost of ignition systems and wear in the gassers. Except for having 'one more thing' to consider, it's hardly worth talking about.
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From: NYC
glk
would a GLK350 yield only 18MPG under the same scenario?
DEF fluid is dirt cheap "if you fill it up yourself"
