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to me the GLK is a very capable offroader, i think its very underestimated! The 4matic works like a dream and until yet i havent had lots of struggles while overlanding…
First time poster, long time follower here...
Build looks great!
Just picked up a 2015 GLK250, looking to do pretty much exactly what you've built here... What's the spec on the lift (or is it a level?) and tires/wheels? Those fender flares look good too...
Would also like to know what the spec on that 2" lift is, I'm looking to make the same mods as zrschmd above.
My 2015 GLK250 was spec'd with the amg sport package, so it's got 10mm lower factory ground clearance than the base model, and 20mm lower than the Off-road variant (European only). It's hard to tell where MB found that extra 20mm ground clearance, as the OEM parts look to be nearly identical across the different variants - Im guessing they just used longer springs and dampers but if anyone knows any different I'd love to hear thoughts on that. If that's all MB did to get the higher ground clearance then in theory I should just be able to replace the OEM springs and dampers on my GLK with longer ones to achieve ~20mm more ground clearance. Add in a 1.5" leveling kit (cant seem to find any taller ones than that) and it's looking like a full 2" of additional ground clearance before moving to bigger tires (245/65/r17 all terrains maybe?).
Anyone else know if I'm completely off base with my thinking here?
Sorry for resurecting such an old thread, but has someone thought about retrofiting/coding the "Off-road engineering package"/"On/offroad package" ? I am referring to the actual off road mode, activated though a button on the central console. Since it is software based, I believe it is doable, but never seen one retrofitted.
Also, the 30mm (or 20) lift from the package most likely comes from different springs and maybe shocks, but I have not found the part numbers.
Sorry for resurecting such an old thread, but has someone thought about retrofiting/coding the "Off-road engineering package"/"On/offroad package" ? I am referring to the actual off road mode, activated though a button on the central console. Since it is software based, I believe it is doable, but never seen one retrofitted.
Also, the 30mm (or 20) lift from the package most likely comes from different springs and maybe shocks, but I have not found the part numbers.
No idea what the off road mode does on the GLK. Perhaps it modifies the throttle response or power output. There are no fancy differentials so mechanically I doubt it would change.
The lift kit I have seen comes from larger spacers on the spring mounts. I went aftermarket that put spacers on the shocks, struts and spring perches.
Of course no locking diffs (but I did read on an article about different gearing), but it seems to do quite a few things:
"For keen off-road enthusiasts, an Offroad Engineering package is additionally available to further broaden the scope for off-road adventures. At the touch of a button a special drive programme is started which varies the shift points of the 7G-TRONIC, "softens" the accelerator characteristics and activates the ESP®off-road functions with off-road ABS and a special off-road 4ETS system. An additional switch activates Downhill Speed Regulation (DSR), which automatically maintains a preset speed between 4 and 18 km/h on steep downhill stretches. The driver is able to vary the speed at any time by means of the cruise control lever."
"Another new development is the Offroad Engineering package in combination with the Intelligent Light System. Offroad Light is available here for trips in difficult terrain. Specific headlamp settings provide for better off-road orientation by more widespread illumination of the field of vision."
"To keep you informed about your geographic data at all times, the off-road engineering package expands on the functionalities of the optional COMAND APS multimedia system: it tells you your bearing, altitude and GPS coordinates."
Also, some more info from the first page of this thread:
Originally Posted by MBKLUE
"The Offroad Engineering package continues to be offered, guaranteeing that the vehicle is well able to assert itself far from paved roads with Downhill Speed Regulation (DSR), cross-country driving programme (adaptation of transmission shift points and accelerator characteristic), powerful underguard and a raised suspension.
When the \”Offroad Engineering package\” is on board, the questionable \”off-road switch\” within the centre console enhances the Marcedes Benz GLK Class (2013)\’s capabilities in troublesome parcel. At the bit of a button a special drive programme is started that varies the shift points of the 7G-TRONIC, \”softens\” the accelerator characteristics and activates the ESP® cross-country functions with cross-country ABS and a special cross-country 4ETS system. Engine management intervention is later reduced and therefore the system in addition permits higher wheel slip values. This management strategy improves cross-country traction particularly on surfaces giving low friction levels, like sand, gravel or trash. The GLK\’s cross-country ABS was premiered within the current M-Class. It identifies the foremost various ground conditions via the continual comparison of wheel slip models. This leads to the most effective doable speed methods for cross-country visits on rock, sand, rubble, gravel or slush.
In this instrumentality variant with Offroad Engineering package, is supplied with a manual drive programme (M) within which the individual gears are often chosen via paddles on the multifunction handwheel. This in operation mode guarantees most cross-country driving enjoyment. an extra switch activates Downhill Speed Regulation (DSR), that mechanically maintains a predetermined speed between four and eighteen km/h on steep downhill stretches. the driving force is in a position to vary the speed at any time by means that of the control lever."
Setting up the GLK with 17" wheels is a sensible move even if a GLK never leaves pavement. There's plenty of room provided you pick the proper wheel width/offset and choose a tire with roughly the same rolling diameter as the OEM tires.
The GLK will never have the off-road capabilities of a G-wagen and setting up a GLK with a lift kit, beefed-up control arms, skidplates, rock rails and real recovery points seems to be an unrealistic proposition. However, improving the GLK's "off-pavement" capabilities is more realistic and by that I mean bashing down gravel roads and dirt tracks (wet, dry or snow-covered).
Here's my 2015 GLK350 with M-B 5-Spoke 17x7.5 ET 47.5wheels and 235/65R17 Nokian WRG3 SUV tires. The RhinoRack roof tray on my GLK holds my full-size spare tire, jerry can and a pair of TRED 1100 traction aids. This set-up is working well for me for some year 'round backroad exploring here in Western Canada.
Hello!
I saw your pics of GLK350 with Rhino Rack basket. Love it! I have a 2103 Glk250, (same colour as you), that I bought new and after all these years still love. I can’t find the model of basket that you have..do you know if it’s still available? Do you possibly have a link? Also, did you lift your truck at all, I’m interested in a small lift but am struggling to find sources as my truck is now nearly 10 years old.
any help greatly appreciated!
thx
Gary
Old thread resurrection is a good thing at times, especially on a rarely found subject.
My GLK is on jackstands. Front spacers done, rear shock extenders installed, rear coil spring spacers getting installed this weekend. Tried without a compressor....basically impossible.
I have 235/65/18s on Neuspeed wheels. Did a test fit at stock height and they run well...tiny rub at full lock. The little lift should be perfect. Will update with pics.
Quick and painless.....unfortunately zero write ups for the Tema4x4 or Rising spacer lift. I did NOT take before and after measurements...my bad. I'd guess an easy extra 1.5" to ride height. Aside from the regular tools (sockets, impact, torque wrench, jack and jack stands) you'll need an internal spring compressor (pic below...$60 on Amazon), a set of triple square bits and short e-torx bits. Not a complete write up...just some pointers.
Video link for the front won't load properly. On Youtube, search "KYB MERCEDES GLK FRONT". Simple as removing the front struts, adding the spacer, then re-installing. Few things I learned.
- Check the replacement bolt length from the kit. Mine were too long and the outboard bolt bottomed out on the top hat. Ace Hardware has a bunch of replacements available. I grabbed some slight shorter ones. I believe they were M8 with the 1.25 thread.
- The 3 top hat bolt holes are not symmetrical. Make sure the spacer is in the proper orientation.....you'll see when you're messing with it.
- Stick punches through the spacers into the top hat to use as guides as you lift the strut back up into place.
- Take pics of how the brake lines are oriented around the strut so you get them back the way they were.
- The two bolts holding the caliper on are ridiculously tight.
- If the axle shaft pops out of the front differential...just wiggle with some light inward pressure. The splines will pop back in.
There's no video for the GLK rears. Browse some other model MB rear videos and you get the point.
I pulled the rear shocks first and, as with the front, had some new OEM shocks for install. You need to replace the 2 studs in the shock mount and replace them with the longer studs included in the kit. ! nice wack with a hammer and the old ones pop out. Tap the new ones in a bit until the splies catch...then run a nut down the threads to seat it in the mount....like replacing a lug bolt on most cars. Remove some of the interior panels to access the shock top nuts. Not too bad. Remove the tie downs and bag hanger hooks. There are a few torx bolts remove and the main plastic trim pieces are attached by standard clips. I only pulled enough away until I was able to get my hands behind the plastic...I didn't remove everything. Pic beloe is lifted off another thread. I did NOT pull that much plastic off. The bottom shock bolt on the control arm is a pain like every other shock. Muscle the shock up and jamb the bolt through. You do NOT have to remove the sway bar end link from the control arm...leave that alone.
The rears can be tricky...take your time. MB says to use the compressor to remove the OEM spring...I did not...it's not under that much tension....do so at your own risk. Put your floor jack under the control arm right where the inner bolt is...that connects the control arm to the body. Remove the nut and zip the bolt out from the back. Slowly lower the floor jack. Pull the spring out and remove the spring shim thats wedged up into the body where the top spring coil sits. It's not glued...just press fit. Each side took me about 5 minutes of prying them out with a screwdriver. Once out, slide the spring back in, lining the spring end up to the spring stop ledge on the lower bucket of the control arm...slide the spacer into the void where you removed the shim and turn it until the spring end is in the pocket in the spacer. Raise the end of the control arm a few cranks to get some pressure on the spring...not a ton...just enough to keep everything sitting correctly. Inert the top and bottom compresssor plates into the spring. Insert the compressor shaft through the hole in the control arm. Make sure it's connected properly. I had a buddy helping. I compressed a few turns, he jacked up a bit...and repeat. Once everything is lined up, insert the bolts, tighten nut and done.
- Yes the old shims have to be removed. They can be stubborn....just keep prying and they'll come out.
- Don't put the bottom compressor plate too low or the top plate too high....they WILL bind if you do.
- You don't need to go crazy on compressing the spring....so no need for the coils to touch.
- Lining the control arm up to re-install the bolt can be tricky. Experiment with simply moving the jack left and right....the arm moves back and forth easily a good deal to help with alignment.
- Once you get the holes in the control arm lined up with the bushing...chase that damn bolt through with the impact...don't beat it. Those threads are extremely durable...let them do their job and run the bolt through.
- If the bolt goes halfway in and stops...peek at it from the other side...you may need to increase or decrease pressure on the jack to get the exit hole lined up. As long as the tip of the bolt peeks through....run it.
- When snugging the compressor up initially, double check to make sure the top of the shaft is properly seated. There are 3 nubs that fit into 3 cavities on the top plate. As you're first snugging it up, make sure the nubs didnt vibrate or bounce out of the cavities.
This video will show you some of what I'm talking about....although I compressed and un-compressed the springs on the truck...no need to remove them compressed.
Hope this basic info helps someone messing with this the first time. As always....do this at your own risk. I had the entire vehicle on stands when I did this. Be careful you don't lift the thing off the jackstands if you're feeling too hulkish.
Awesome, thanks for the detailed info. The setup looks great.
There is some angle trickery going on with the body lines, causing you to think the front end is lower, but (at least from this pic) you can see a bit more gap between rear wheel and fender compared to front.
If all of the suspension components are new, they should "settle" within a few thousand miles.
I'm actually going to do a tad more comprehensive write up. I didn't take too many pics along the way though. Figure a thread with info I would have like to have had may help someone down the road....
How did the 30mm lift kit work out - any issues ? I see you have a 350 but I have a 250, would assume it’s the same kit ? Tema4x4 is the one you purchased I’m guessing ?
thanks !
As lift kits become from rare to nonexistent now, I hope this will be of help to someone that is in my situation. I have a 2013 GLK 220CDI with AMG Sports Package + B00 and the suspension is shot. I want to change the suspension to have as much lift as possible. So my car will go from the lowest suspension to (hopefully) the highest suspension.
In order to find the part numbers for OE lifted suspension, I have used the VIN's from three cars, all have the 430 - Off Road Package code, but as you will see, they differ a lot: one is a prefacelift 2008 GLK 320CDI, with the Off Road Package Pro, one is a prefacelift 2011 GLK 220CDI with Off Road Package and a facelift 2015 GLK 220CDI, with the Off Road Package + B00 code. This is an important note, as there are differences even on identical specificiations based on NFL or FL. On other makes, suspension components (springs mostly) can differ even based on engines. There is a lot of confusion between the full offroad package with the highest lift (sometimes called Off Road Package Pro) and the Off Road Package (which also featured a mild lift for some model years). To add to the confusion, there was also available an Optical Offroad Package. The Offroad Package Pro is really rare to find and it seems that is was only available on the V6 CDI (or this is how it was mostly configured). Even Mercedes own documentation brings confusion, as some model years had both packages available. Also, it is unclear when the off road package went from a mild lift to no lift. To add on top of all of this, there was the possibility of adding the B00 - SUSPENSION MEASURES FOR ROUGH ROAD TERRAIN option on top of ANY GLK configuration, which will change the springs and dampers. For example, my AMG Sports Suspension GLK haves the B00 code, as well the 2015 Off Road Package from above.
Anyways, here are the part numbers for the 2008 Off Road Package Pro (highest lift):
Rear suspension
17 mm SHIM - A 210 325 04 84
REAR SPRING COLOR CODE: 1 X VIOLET/1 X WHITE/1 X BLUE - A 204 324 62 04 SHOCK ABSORBER - A 204 320 01 31
On the 2011 Off Road Package the only difference is that the Shim is a 9mm one (A 210 325 02 84). So the lift comes only from the rubber shim, as springs and shocks are the same.
In the 2015 Off Road Package + B00 the Shim is a 5mm one (the same as in all "normal" GLK's, my AMG sports suspension included), but the springs and dampers are different (I would assume there is no lift, but I do not know for sure).
Front suspension:
SHOCK-ABSORBER - A 204 323 05 00 / A 204 323 17 00
COIL SPRING COLOR MARKING: 4 X GRAY - A 204 321 18 04
STOP BUFFER (bump stop) - A 204 321 12 06
COIL SPRING SHIM - A 212 322 01 84
On the 2011 Off Road Package the only difference is the spring (COLOR MARKING: 3 X GRAY - A 204 321 17 04). So on the front, all the lift comes from the spring.
The 2015 Off Road Package + B00 is very interesting. It haves the same spring as the Off Road Package Pro (4x gray), but the shim is different (A 218 322 00 84). I cannot find any measurements on the shim, but I am assuming that it is not important, as my AMG suspension haves the same shim. The bump stop is different (A 204 321 15 06) as is the bearing and the shock absorber (A 204 323 42 00). The top mounts and the lower shims are the same on all of them.
In conclusion, if the highest lift is desired, I would go with the above parts from the 2008 GLK 320CDI Off Road Package Pro. I am assuming that the parts should fit any GLK and maybe even some mismatching could be ok. It is possible that there might be better OE parts for lifting the car, but it is very hard to find any info. This is the best I could do and I hope it will helpfull to someone in the future.
I will go with equivalent aftermarket parts, as the OE one are either unavailable (most likely out of production) or very expensive. I will let you know what I will go with.
here are the part numbers for the 2008 Off Road Package Pro (highest lift):
Rear suspension
17 mm SHIM - A 210 325 04 84
REAR SPRING COLOR CODE: 1 X VIOLET/1 X WHITE/1 X BLUE - A 204 324 62 04 SHOCK ABSORBER - A 204 320 01 31
I just finished replacing the broken rear springs in my base 2014. The springs and shims were exactly what's listed above. Can't say about the shocks, but they wouldn't provide any lift, unless they are part of an active suspension. (Just checked, EPC comes up with the same pn as above.)
My build sheet confirms the spring and shim part numbers but makes no mention of any special suspension options, as far as I can tell.
Went for an alignment today. The tech said the rear height is off the scale and the rear springs must be wrong. I bought them from Sachs, not MB, so they don't have color codes on them, however, as best as I can tell, they are the same wire diameter (15mm) same number of coils, about 9.5, and same free length. I took out 4 nub (17mm) spacers and reinstalled the same. The free length is the same, 380mm or 15". It does look a little tall in the back. Can anyone give me a measurement from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender cutout?
Do you think they will "settle in"? It's been driven about 30 miles since they were installed. (Anyone remember the British sit-com, "Are you being served?"? Maybe the springs will ride up with wear...)
I have found the difference between 4 X GRAY - A 204 321 18 04 and 3 X GRAY - A 204 321 17 04. Both are very similar in lenght, but 3X Gray haves a thinner coil, making it softer. My car spends 90%+ of the time on road, so I will go with 3X Gray.
After quite a bit of digging, I most likely will go with these:
Rear shocks: KYB 553386
Rear springs: SACHS 994 224
Rear shim: FEBI BILSTEIN 17090
Front shocks: KYB 335842
Front springs: SACHS 998 881
Front and rear top mounts, bearings, dust protectors and bump stops: FEBI BILSTEIN
I chose the KYB shocks because of good experience with them in the past (on other cars) and because they are one of the few aftermarket manufacturers that actually offer different options, the one that I choose is equivalent to the off road package, while they also have another shock for "sports suspension". Sachs for example (and the entire ZF Group) only have one option for shocks. Which is weird, because they actually have the a lot of options when it comes to springs. I went with them for springs because they have a 5mm advantage in lenght for the fronts, over the equivalent KYB. For the other parts, I chose Febi Bilstein because I had in the past a lot of parts from them that actually were OE Mercedes. For a fraction of the cost...
Originally Posted by John CC
And the beat goes on...
Went for an alignment today. The tech said the rear height is off the scale and the rear springs must be wrong. I bought them from Sachs, not MB, so they don't have color codes on them, however, as best as I can tell, they are the same wire diameter (15mm) same number of coils, about 9.5, and same free length. I took out 4 nub (17mm) spacers and reinstalled the same. The free length is the same, 380mm or 15". It does look a little tall in the back. Can anyone give me a measurement from the center of the wheel to the bottom of the fender cutout?
Do you think they will "settle in"? It's been driven about 30 miles since they were installed. (Anyone remember the British sit-com, "Are you being served?"? Maybe the springs will ride up with wear...)
I would measure for you, but my car is way lower than yours (for the moment). I don't see why you are having problems. Maybe try the 9 or 5 mm spacer.
From past experiences, new springs will settle down by about 5mm, but it will take a bit longer than 30 miles.
I don't think I am. I've verified I have the correct springs. Same wire diameter, same number of coils and same free length. Same spacer.
I found a spec that says the axle half shafts should be at 3.96 degrees from horizontal, +/- 1.0 degrees. Crawled under the car with a mechanical angle finder and took some measurements. Crude, but I came up with somewhere between 4 and 5 degrees. 4.96 would be within the spec, so I'm calling it good. My tires are almost worn out, so I can risk them. If they wear evenly I'll be done with it.
I think the problem is the shop. It's under new ownership. Time to move on, I think. Too bad, 'cuz they're within walking distance...
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