i bought one from him, its just a welded piece on a socket. i didnt own a MiG welder at the time. I havent used it yet.

 

Would like to see a DIY on a 4matic GLK. - NP

 

 

Following up on this as promised. We just completed installing new mounts on 2010 GLK350. The truck had about 85,000 miles on it, was exhibiting vibrations in brake pedal, head rests, and steering wheel mainly while stopped at traffic lights. New mounts totally solved the problem, the truck is back to being buttery smooth again. The dealer quoted us 9 hours of labor and $2000 for this job. So we bought the mounts from FCP Euro and got to it. It took us 10 hours. If we had to do it again we could probably shave off 2 hours. This job is not particularly difficult or complex, but the time needed simply comes down to lack of space and lack of access. Creativity will be needed for extensions, universals and using 1/4" tools in tight spots. The youtube tool thing was pretty handy but it's small in the overall scope of the job.

Removing the axles is straight forward, I was anticipating this to be worse than it actually was, it's very easy. We had no luck using a pry bar to disconnect the axles, wasnt much to pry on. We used a 5 pound slide hammer and a chain wrapped behind the inside 'can' of the axle. If the chain is too thick it wont fit through the frame. We used a #2/0 sized chain, I wouldn't use anything larger than that. Unbolt the axle bolt (one time use) at the hub and remove the axle from the hub. To give you room to maneuver the axle out, the hub should be disconnected off the shock mount, and lowered down out of the way, it's helpful to have extra set of hands. The slide hammer and chain should be as horizontal as possible, it will only take one tug to pop the axle right out. Re-Installing the axle is easy, it will pop in with a resounding snap when the circlip catches. The circlips should also be replaced (we did not).

I don't think the passenger side axle needs to be removed, although we removed it. With the alternator unbolted from the engine (4 bolts pointing towards the passenger fender), there is plenty of room to maneuver the passenger side mount out of the vehicle. In order to get the drivers side mount out, after its free, the passenger side needs to be out first to allow the engine more freedom to be moved around. We removed the axle on the drivers side, then disconnected the steering shaft near the axle. Steering disconnect is pretty straight forward. Just a bolt and sliding the sleeve out of the way. The steering shaft is keyed. This, in combination with moving the motor up/down allowed the drivers mount to be removed from the vehicle (after it was unbolted). It's not hard to unbolt them, just tricky to get them out. Unbolting them first is pretty quick affair. The balance of the time will be spent maneuvering the free mount out of the compartment, fidgeting with the two heat shields.

Collapsed mount on right.


the tool used for the center mount bolt.

 

Which brand did you use? lemfoerder or corteco.... I'm sourcing parts now to do my 2010 and cant decide which brand to order.

 

Lemforder for engine mounts.
Corteco for tanny mount.
For no particular reason, just what was available on FCP.

 

Is this issue common in GLK350 only or should i anticipate this repair on my GLK250 BT. My car has 150,000 KM and i haven't noticed anything yet.

 

same crappy mounts, just much easier to get to

 

Can you please give more details why 250 is alot easier to get to compare to 350?

 

it does not have front axles in the way

 

250 is diesel can still have 4matic, no? I think what B737 means is that it's much easing on non-AWD cars.

 

The reason i asked if it affects the 250 is that the engine is significantly smaller than the one on the 350. So i was guessing its not compressing the mounts as much. Anyone out there with a GLK250 that had to replace their mounts.

 

That's an interesting point. I think the weight is difference is not the biggest factor with the transmission attached, but the problem on 350 is that the exhaust manifolds run right next to the mounts. I think the heat is what kills them so quickly. On the diesel, it might be a different arrangement. And yes fair point that on 250 there are probably a lot more space to work with.

 

I didnt know 250 came in AWD. yes that was what i was referring to. AWD will be a pain. 2wd will be pretty straight forward with the tool

 

Did you get the Lemforder motor mount from FCP Euro? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...unt-2042402017
or the Genuine MB motor mount? https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/mer...mer-2042402017

Also, how many miles since replaced?

 

Go for the LEMFÖRDER, save cash. That's what I did.

 

Thanks for the reply, I was planning to use Lemforder.

 

Lemforder...1 year and 15k miles... so far so good

 

was yours a 4matic model? Did the AWD front differential give you trouble?

 

Yes it was AWD, what do you meant by front diff giving trouble? It was a PITA overall.