Disclaimer
I'm not a professional mechanic. I perform all the maintenances on my own vehicles. Anything outside of my scope of knowledge / support I leave to the professionals, although that has yet to happen. Proceed at your own risk.

Most oil changes are simple and straight-forward. Below I've listed the tools required and a step-by-step guide on how to complete this project.

Tools Required
3/8" Ratchet Drive
3/8" Drive Extension
1/2" Socket
1/4" Ratchet Drive
5/16" Socket
Filter "B" cap Wrench 76mm 14 flutes ($5.99 available at local autozone)
Oil filter (MB part # 276 180 00 09)
6.9 Quarts of 0w-40 oil (European Formula)
Oil catch-pan (Not pictured)
See picture below



It's always best to work on a flat and level surface. The GLK 350 sits high enough off the ground where performing this task shouldn't require a jack/lift. Begin working when the engine is warm to the touch or simply cold.

Remove Engine Cover
'Pop' the hood of the car.The engine cover is held down by pressure clips, just pull the cover up gently. This exposes the location of the oil filter.


Loosen Oil Filter
The oil filter is conveniently located on the top, drivers side area of the engine. It's a tight area though so I highly recommend using a cap-wrench* to remove it. I purchased a generic one from autozone for $5.99. Loosen the oil filter housing but don't entirely remove it. This is just to make sure that before you drain the oil you are actually able to replace the oil filter as well.



*I found that the cap-wrench is shallow therefore not allowing the entire 3/8" extension to be inserted while still engaging the oil filter housing. I recommend placing the cap over the oil filter housing then slightly lifting the cap off and partially inserting the 3/8" extension and then loosen the oil filter housing. It was the only way I found it to work.

Undercarriage Engine Cover
Now we will need to remove the undercarriage engine cover (if any) in order to access the oil drain plug. Using a 1/4" ratchet drive with a 5/16" socket, remove the 8 screws holding it in place.



Oil Drain Plug
Using a 3/8" ratchet drive with a 1/2" socket, loosen the drain plug. Now place the catch-pan underneath and manually remove the drain plug. Allow the oil to drain until it tapers off to a few drops.


Replacing Oil Filter and Seal
As the oil is draining, lets turn our attention back to the oil filter. Manually remove the oil filter housing. Discard the old oil filter and the old large rubber seal. After cleaning up the oil filter housing, install the new rubber seal and the new oil filter.



Complete the Task
Now it's time to put everything back together. I recommend going in the following order:

1. Install oil filter housing
2. Install oil drain plug with crush washer.
3. Fill engine with 6.9 quarts (6.5 Liters) of oil.
4. Install the oil filler cap.
5. Start the engine and check for leaks.
6. If everything looks good then install the undercarriage engine cover and the engine cover.
7. Recycle used oil at local autozone / advanced auto parts / etc.

Congratulations, you have successfully completed the oil change! Don't forget to reset the maintenance interval!


Hope you have found this helpful.


Regards,


- CA

 

Does that oil meet the MB 229.5 specs for gasoline engines? (diesel is 229.52)

https://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevolisten/229.5_en.html

 

Yes, The seal of approval can be found on the rear label of the container as 'MB-Approval 229.5'

 

Yes, the Mobil 1 0W-40 is.

OP,
With the top-mounted oil filter, I highly recommend buying a Mityvac. You can change the oil and filter without ever getting under the car.

See this DIY from the C63 section: https://mbworld.org/forums/c63-amg-w...up-photos.html

 

Thanks for the recommendation! I'll have to check out that extractor.