Buying GLK at the end of the month
07-18-2017, 12:11 PM
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Buying GLK at the end of the month
Been Searching Cargurus and im trying my best to by a glk by the end of the month. looking at prices and im trying to stay between 300-350 a month. is it possible to find a great quality low mile GLK for that price and what do you guys suggest i look for when im looking and meeting with dealers! thanks
07-18-2017, 01:32 PM
#2
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350 a month? For how long, 60 months? That's $21k including tax, tag, title and all other fees.
Wouldn't it be better to find the best-equipped, lowest mileage and best-priced GLK online once you know what you'd qualify for in terms of credit? Don't just show up to the dealer and let them play their Four Square paper games.
Know what you can afford, find what you want within what you can afford, pull the trigger.
Wouldn't it be better to find the best-equipped, lowest mileage and best-priced GLK online once you know what you'd qualify for in terms of credit? Don't just show up to the dealer and let them play their Four Square paper games.
Know what you can afford, find what you want within what you can afford, pull the trigger.
07-18-2017, 02:12 PM
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350 a month? For how long, 60 months? That's $21k including tax, tag, title and all other fees.
Wouldn't it be better to find the best-equipped, lowest mileage and best-priced GLK online once you know what you'd qualify for in terms of credit? Don't just show up to the dealer and let them play their Four Square paper games.
Know what you can afford, find what you want within what you can afford, pull the trigger.
Wouldn't it be better to find the best-equipped, lowest mileage and best-priced GLK online once you know what you'd qualify for in terms of credit? Don't just show up to the dealer and let them play their Four Square paper games.
Know what you can afford, find what you want within what you can afford, pull the trigger.
07-18-2017, 03:53 PM
#4
Member
Yes, you can.
It's better do some web research on your local banks or credit unions to find the best interest rate at your desired term length. Then go get a pre-qualification from them. Then you can go to whatever dealership and have your financing sorted out. That way you'll just negotiate the sale price without them hammering with, "What do you want your payment to be?". If yu come prepared, they may even offer to meet/beat your bank's terms and you can then save money that way.
The last thing you want to do is spend 4 hours with a used car salesman haggling over interest rates, loan lengths, down payments, etc... In the end that always works in the dealer's favor unless you're prepared to hold your ground.
It's better do some web research on your local banks or credit unions to find the best interest rate at your desired term length. Then go get a pre-qualification from them. Then you can go to whatever dealership and have your financing sorted out. That way you'll just negotiate the sale price without them hammering with, "What do you want your payment to be?". If yu come prepared, they may even offer to meet/beat your bank's terms and you can then save money that way.
The last thing you want to do is spend 4 hours with a used car salesman haggling over interest rates, loan lengths, down payments, etc... In the end that always works in the dealer's favor unless you're prepared to hold your ground.
07-18-2017, 05:17 PM
#5
Senior Member
One easy thing to cross off your list would be to compare the 2010 -2012 models with the updated 2013 - 2015 models. They have different interiors and updated engines in the newer models. Then when you know which design you prefer, you can "rule out" the ones you know you don't want.
07-18-2017, 07:23 PM
#6
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20k is more than enough. should get you into a low mileage 2012 + -
that was my budget for her and easily got into highly optioned one with 28,000 miles on it. In 2013 they switched to DI, if that's your thing go for it. but if your not a fan of DI, then stick to 2012 and prior. drive the truck hard and thoroughly pay particular attention to any weird noises from drive train and transmission. due diligence is key here, its not a honda. and when it breaks you're not repairing a $20,000 truck, you are repairing a $50,000 truck (or however much they were back then).
that was my budget for her and easily got into highly optioned one with 28,000 miles on it. In 2013 they switched to DI, if that's your thing go for it. but if your not a fan of DI, then stick to 2012 and prior. drive the truck hard and thoroughly pay particular attention to any weird noises from drive train and transmission. due diligence is key here, its not a honda. and when it breaks you're not repairing a $20,000 truck, you are repairing a $50,000 truck (or however much they were back then).
Last edited by B737; 07-18-2017 at 07:28 PM.
07-30-2017, 05:22 AM
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BofA has a rewards program where you can get half point off of the best rate. You can always ask the dealer to beat what the bank is offering. there are good financial calculators on bank rate and other sites.
Last edited by dcbill58; 07-30-2017 at 06:00 AM.
