Thanks chassis for the info and the video links are really helpful. I was wondering which lead removal tool to buy and couldn't decide whether to get the long or the short ones, now I know. I do have a torque wrench but it might be a bit to big so i'll get a smaller one.

 

Can anyone advise me on the best torque wrench range to buy for my vehicle as the one I have I don't think will go down low enough.
Thanks.

 

Buy all of the tools in Senior Leigh's video on YouTube. Either Tacklife or Tekton is the torque wrench with the range for the spark plugs. It's all outlined in Senior Leigh's video and his website leighsr.com

 

how to release that tie down clip (zip tie) from the bracket?

 

Just wiggle it outward. In a service environment, you would just cut the plastic clip and replace as needed.

 

Hello All,
It was HOT today in SoCal so I thought I'd do the Spark Plug change on my 2014 GLK 350, M276 engine. I had looked over this thread for reference as well as the Good write up by the Gent that did the M276 in an SLK 350. I decided to do the ECU removal version as opposed to the manifold open / plenum version. It seemed a better way to ME. It took about 4 hours all in, working carefully. I had hesitated doing the job, I bought the plugs(Bosch) a year ago, as the car ran great and was efficient. However I was growing concerned about the mileage and the seizing issue so I pulled the trigger. My car has 110,00 miles on it so I felt it was really time. The passenger side bank is conventional and goes easily, I had NO trouble with the coil leads / wires OR Plugs seizing on either side, I was fortunate in that regard. The Driver side bank is much more of a do. With the ECU and part of the ECU harness bracket removed and the various wiring "bundles" carefully moved aside there is adequate room to do # 4 and #5. It IS tight but working around the wiring and hoses / dipstick gently was not too hellish. #6 is more challenging but similar to #5. The Absolute key is the proper spark plug wrench / tool for the M276. I'm sure the MB part is good but I used one from Amazon with magnet and a spring pressure knuckle, indispensable. I reinstalled all the plugs and wires with anti seize and dielectric grease(Permatex) as recommended. The take out plugs were not pristine but the electrodes were fine and properly colored and virtually in spec, gap wise. I am a hobbyist mechanic with a pretty good tool kit and plenty of experience on my cars, motorcycles and boats. Also, I like a challenging project. I would say this was a medium degree of difficulty job, fiddley. If you are reasonably experienced and willing to take your time with the correct tools, I would recommend doing it at the proscribed interval.

 

What a great forum. Had a misfire on #6 so might as well replace all since car has 108k. Called dealer and to change all coils and plugs was $3k. Several Indys were $2.5k. Thanks for the PDF file, I did the job myself without removing IM. Total cost for parts for Delphi coils and Bosch plugs was $550 from FCP Euro. #6 was a challenge, you can't really see it so it was all feel. What helped a lot was a cordless ratchet that didnt require room like a manual socket wrench. I disconnected battery and removed the ECU. Once #6 was done, the rest was easy. I lost a torx bolt so just bought a regular one from Autozone, M6-27. this forum is great. Thanks all

 

Good for you! I am all for DIY!