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And the winner is andreigbs. You nailed it my friend. Without squeezing the hose you can't even see the tear at all. I managed to get about 10 good layers of gorilla duct tape on it temporarily. My question now is will it make until next weekend? She drives about 20 miles per day and another 100 to get here next Friday. Should I wait or do a parking lot repair? What are the potential consequences of waiting. Of course I now have to find the part on short notice. Any advice appreciated!
I know this thread is old, but I wanted to confirm what everyone has said--it was the driver's side intercooler hose. My wife has a 2014 GLK 250 (50,000 miles). On a road trip we got a P0101 code (mass air flow sensor). When we got home, the codes were P0101, P0171, P0113, and P0299. There was no noticeable performance issue--just the engine codes. I replaced the air filter and cleaned the mass air flow sensor, but the codes returned within an hour of driving. I then found this thread noting the problem with the intercooler hose splitting. Sure enough, the driver's side hose had two small slits (less than an inch each). I could not find the part at the major auto parts stores, so I have ordered a replacement (I just googled the part number suggested above: 204-528-25-82).
As a temporary fix, I cleaned the exterior of the hose with denatured alcohol to remove dirt and grease. Then I glued the tear shut with CA glue (superglue). Finally I wrapped the hose with heavy duty duct tape. The fix has held for two days with no return of the engine code. I'll replace with the new hose as soon as it arrives.
A few notes for anyone who is attempting the repair:
--There seems to be a bunch of alternate names for this part (intercooler hose, outlet pipe, charge hose, etc.). Just search for the part numbers above: Driver Side (204-528-25-82), Passenger's Side (212-528-08-8)
--The only way to access the hose is underneath the car. You must remove the splash shield in order to see it.
--There are two hoses that could be split, one on the passenger's and one on the driver's side. The driver's side is black and I think is more prone to splitting. The passengers side is red and made of a heavier duty material (thus the higher cost for a replacement).
--The hose is connected with a "Henn-type" connector. I had never seen one before and had no idea how to remove it. I could find nothing online explaining how to remove. If you search "Henn-type" you'll see that there is a special tool available. I just used a flathead screw driver. There are basically two metal wire clips that you pull out slightly, releasing the hose. Luckily I didn't break anything.
--Finally, I had a weird transmission issue that coincided with this. There would be a rough downshift from 3 to 2 to 1 whenever I stopped. I think it was probably unrelated, but I guess maybe the TCU could have adjusted itself due to a change in the way the car was handling without the turbo??? In any event, I reset the TCU and it appears to have fixed the problem.
Thanks for such an informative post. I have the very same issue with a hose on my daughter's car. I have it taped for now but am searching for the part. I'm nervous about the henn connector. I saw the bottom of the connector and assume prying out on the wire releases it however upon reassembly does it just snap back in? Any thoughts appreciated.
Thanks!
Just wanted to bring closure to my addition to this thread. I located a new hose today. Installation was a breeze. No more than 30 minutes. Probably the easiest major repair I've ever made. Thanks to all.
Just wanted to bring closure to my addition to this thread. I located a new hose today. Installation was a breeze. No more than 30 minutes. Probably the easiest major repair I've ever made. Thanks to all.
What came of the henn connector? Did it just clip back on? I think I'm having this issue as well... If so I've been driving around for a WHILE with it
Yes, the hen connector was not an issue for me at all. Some suggest penetrating oil beforehand but I wasn't able to do that. Release the clips to remove and then they effortlessly reconnected. One of the easiest and most beneficial repairs I've made. I'll change the other side before 100K.
Well, finally got under there and checked (after driving around for months with a "whooshing" sound) and found a huge crack in the hose. I gorilla taped the ever loving out of it and it sounds 100x better. Am now commencing the search for a replacement and can't seem to find it on any sites. Where have yall found them at? Preferably in the states...
Well, finally got under there and checked (after driving around for months with a "whooshing" sound) and found a huge crack in the hose. I gorilla taped the ever loving out of it and it sounds 100x better. Am now commencing the search for a replacement and can't seem to find it on any sites. Where have yall found them at? Preferably in the states...
I bought mine at the dealership. They’re obtainable over the internet as well. Good luck.
Just realized that this hose is the one going from 'charge cooler' to the 'charge manifold'. So i guess the
was correct, the crack would cause leak and create all error codes i have been seeing.
Thanks for very detailed and clear information. My GLK250-2014 got the same problem 15 months ago. I was lucky that my dealer found the cracked hose and replaced it. It costed $220 in total including part and labor cost. I am living in Calgary.
So i went and showed it to a second guy and he said the problem is a tear in the hose. So when turbo tries to pressurize, all the air just escapes and leaks.
He showed me the tear (i will post a picture later), i cannot figure how the hose could crack (neither could the mechanic) and I could not figure how the previous mechanic could not catch it (its pretty visible).
He is asking for $430 (parts + labor). He said the turbo is fine, no issue with it.
I didnt get it fixed because I wanted to understand the vastly different diagnosis.
How could the previous mechanic figure out that there is a play in the shaft without opening up the whole engine compartment? Does Mercedes have some kind of diagnostic tool that can measure shaft play?
Appreciate your inputs!
Hi, I have a 2014 glk250 that had the same trouble TWICE. The intercooler hose drivers side kept RUBBING a hole into it's self. The mechanic explained to me there is a sharp edge on the unibody frame the hose rubs against,
so his fix was to file away the rough edges. This happened at 60K miles and I now have 120K+ and all is well now. The repair cost each time was about $400 labor and parts.
The $42 question ... since it seems obvious this hose is prone to failure ... and on most other turbo cars on the planet people replace this kind of rubber stuff with upgraded hoses ... but I guess this is Mercedes land where maybe people don't think this way ... anyway ... anyone figured out a suitable upgrade hose? Thanks!
The $42 question ... since it seems obvious this hose is prone to failure ... and on most other turbo cars on the planet people replace this kind of rubber stuff with upgraded hoses ... but I guess this is Mercedes land where maybe people don't think this way ... anyway ... anyone figured out a suitable upgrade hose? Thanks!
Filippo
Did you ever find one? I put a tune on my GLK... MOAR BOOST, MOAR POWER, and tore the boost tube. Now it is old and will likely hold fine if replaced with a new one, but if there's an upgraded alternative, that would be my preference!
Did you ever find one? I put a tune on my GLK... MOAR BOOST, MOAR POWER, and tore the boost tube. Now it is old and will likely hold fine if replaced with a new one, but if there's an upgraded alternative, that would be my preference!
No one makes a specialty pipe. There is no market, for a car where people post that they don't have the "right tools" to jack up a car. Like who calls a jack "a tool"?
The 2.1L diesel Benz is a solid motor with, more importantly, sold peripherals. Easy to work on as well. But the knowledge of the average Benz owner is pretty low, and certainly low in the modding world. No market for the product.
I'll also add, once you pull the pipe you'll quickly surmise that it is a specialty piece that would take some effort to replicate in the aftermarket. I suspect, once you put in a new one, it will last you for 60k miles or so.
A new charge pipe will last you quite well, just make sure it's not rubbing or touching anything it's not supposed to. That's what seems to be causing premature failures more than anything else; I'm on the original pipe at 121k miles...
Thank you very much for this. As stated in other threads this is common. It can cause many different faults/codes. I was concerned when my transmission was shifting poorly 1-2-3 and rarely get 6 and 7 with the split in the hose. It’s all making sense now. I am not sure why this is such a big problem but I may suspect the oil on it making the rubber soft. It’s right under the oil filter so when it’s change it leaks down onto the hose? Just a thought.
As it turns out, I had the same issue. I've ordered a new boost pipe and taped up my current one and until the replacement arrives.
Mine had two tears, parallel to each other and about an inch apart, 1 to 1.5 inches long. I was previously tuned and I think this contributed to the hose failure.
I have a GLK 220 CDI 4MATIC BlueEFFICIENCY, in Brazil, and I noticed the same problem in the intercooler hose with a tear, causing lose of power. By the way, thanks all for the very well explanation here.
I did a small research, then I found that GLK 220 and GLK 250 have the same engine OM651. I would like to confirm if I can buy the part Inter-Cooler Hose Product ID: 204-528-00-00, located in USA for GLK250.
I have a GLK 220 CDI 4MATIC BlueEFFICIENCY, in Brazil, and I noticed the same problem in the intercooler hose with a tear, causing lose of power. By the way, thanks all for the very well explanation here.
I did a small research, then I found that GLK 220 and GLK 250 have the same engine OM651. I would like to confirm if I can buy the part Inter-Cooler Hose Product ID: 204-528-00-00, located in USA for GLK250.
Does it fit into my CLK220?
Best way to check is to pull the old boost hose out and get the part number. Even though engine codes match, sometimes the peripherals aren’t quite laid out in the same exact locations and sizes.
My turn now. 97000km(60000miles). Had a P0171 code for a week with rough idle and poor shifting so i suspected the intercooler hose as it is a common problem for this car. There no way i can visually see the crack as it was near the intercooler but i was able to feel it with my fingers. With the new part number 204-528-00-00 there's no need to cut the metal rubbing the hose. 130$cad at the dealer, easy job.
Edit: For an easy removal/installation of the hose, pull the center of the locking clips all the way out. When the new hose is in place, simply push the center pin back in place and everything will be lock. Also a photo of the metal slowly digging is way through the hose.
Good job, as I'm sure a dealership would've not bothered even checking the hose when they can replace a $2k turbo (!!!) or a $500 wastegate actuator, or other things their computer tells them to.
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