GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

Power liftgate not closing

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Old Dec 14, 2018 | 02:00 PM
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Power liftgate not closing

Hi fellow forum folks,
I have a big problem now. The liftgate (or rear hatch) on my 2010 GLK350 was working quite slow for a long time. I've always thought about checking the hydraulic and filling if necessary. This is the same case with my 2010 GL as well, so I was stalling this for nicer weather.
But yesterday the GLK's liftgate refused to close.
It works as it should (slower than it should actually) but at the last inch, it stops and opens fully again, just as if something's obstructing it OR it doesn't have the power to go the last inch and lock properly.

Any suggestions are more than welcome. My to check list:
1) struts
2) hydraulic status
3) motor
4) sensors that stop hatching

Thanks a million for your neverending support
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Old Dec 15, 2018 | 12:34 PM
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I’m fairly sure it’s not hydraulic. The motor might just be worn, is your battery fairly new? You could put a charger on it and try the door when it’s charged with charger still connected, it could just be low voltage
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Old Dec 16, 2018 | 12:01 AM
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2010 GL 550 + 2010 GLK 350
Originally Posted by Mmr1
I’m fairly sure it’s not hydraulic. The motor might just be worn, is your battery fairly new? You could put a charger on it and try the door when it’s charged with charger still connected, it could just be low voltage
Forgive my ignorance, hence the nickname
I had no idea about it being electric and all that.
I don't have a charger but can buy one for sure. In another topic, someone has suggested that it might be the struts. What do you think?
Is there a guide for diy replacement for the struts or motor? Struts should be fairly easy but I'm not sure about the motor...
Battery part is easy, I'll just get myself a battery charger and try when its attached just as you've written. Is a jump starter what I should be looking for or a battery charger is something different?
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Old Dec 16, 2018 | 06:42 AM
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The reason I say battery is my 13 battery is weak and sometimes my rear windows go down real real slowly. How old is your battery? Any auto store will load test your battery for free in the car. You need a charger that has an AGM cycle, maybe the best is CTEK, they make MB, BMW, Rolls Royce, etc factory chargers. Buying CTEK is like 1/3 the price and they make regenerative repairing chargers. I use the CTEK Polar and was told to charge on the cold setting which is higher voltage. Check out their website. My CTEK In recondition more gets me .20 more voltage every time I use the recondition feature which is twice a year. AGM Battery’s are finicky on charger algorithms. A cheap volt meter can help a lot and tell you most everything. If your sitting voltage is 12-12.1 your battery is very weak . Sorry for the confusion, but AGMs are not simple. I’d say start with a free battery test at an auto parts store if your battery is like 4 years old, pick up a volt meter and check voltage in the morning. For a charger check out CTEK site and call them for the right model, a CTEK charger is 40-80$ with the repair feature. Jay Leno did a video of the repair recondition function of CTEK.
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Old Dec 16, 2018 | 06:49 AM
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Does it close better with the motor running ? That’s when you would have more voltage . And check voltage with a meter when running
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Old Dec 16, 2018 | 08:07 AM
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Try lubricaring door weather stripping, hinges, lock and the struts shaft , I had my hood struts grab until I lubricated them, I’ve seen them go bad and loose, I don’t know if they can slow and close down going bad but its possible, lubricating helped my front hood awhile. MB did it for me. Maybe something needs adjusting , my rear door was clunking until mb adjusted it. It could be many things, and a weak door motor.
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