what to look for when looking at a GLK
01-22-2019, 05:05 PM
#1
Member
Thread Starter
what to look for when looking at a GLK
hey guys...I am usually over in W204 forum with our C250 coupe....
but now looking for a second MB
I love the GLK. They are still new, but coming down in price (remember second car)
What do I look for maintenance wise.
What should be done and at what miles?
and at what miles should I steer away? is 150k too high for a 2010?
any help / advice would be appreciated
sample of high miles GLK
just FYI I NEED the pano roof.
but now looking for a second MB
I love the GLK. They are still new, but coming down in price (remember second car)
What do I look for maintenance wise.
What should be done and at what miles?
and at what miles should I steer away? is 150k too high for a 2010?
any help / advice would be appreciated
sample of high miles GLK
just FYI I NEED the pano roof.
01-23-2019, 01:04 AM
#2
Super Member
Get a 2013-2015. If you have a smaller budget 2013 is the way to go. The older cars aren't terrible per say, but they are a little more economical on the inside versus the newer cars. If you are looking at such high mileage, you will need to do tons of maintenance. Personally, I would take a high mileage 2013 versus a lesser mileage 2010.
And since you live nearby me, you won't need 4matic at all. typically the service on 4matic all wheel drive is way more expensive.
And since you live nearby me, you won't need 4matic at all. typically the service on 4matic all wheel drive is way more expensive.
01-23-2019, 10:55 AM
#4
Senior Member
Agree with MMR
There are a handful of things to check.
I have to disagree with JohnnyC here, I would buy pre-2013. getting you the M272 vs the M276 engine. The 272 is a proven engine that is relatively trouble free and reliable. It is easy to service. The M276 has added complexities of direct injection, and seem to be a little more time intensive for regular service such as spark plugs. This should also get you into a truck that does not have auto stop start and will only have one main battery, keeping things simple.
check the pano roof and shade operation thoroughly, they frequently fail. Check to make sure the tailgate doesn't make any clicking noises. The transmission and transfer cases on these trucks are one unit, its a dumb design. They are prone to leaking and are expensive to repair, failure is not uncommon. Transmission service is important to have been completed / recorded. Check electric steering wheel adjust operation, these frequently break / jam. Make sure there is no vibration in the drivers seat or gas pedal as that typically indicates failed motor mounts which are expensive in labor to replace, they also seem to fail every 60,000 miles or so. Make sure the navigation screen looks like its working normally. Check for pending OBD codes if you have the tools (such has icarsoft i980). Command screen is known to fail. "Mbtex" fake leather is common to see cracked on seat.
do a thorough test drive and inspection as you would any used car for the rest of the normal stuff. They are simple cars, ours has been dependable and mostly trouble free for the last two years. Having said that, I do not plan to own mine beyond 85,000-100,000 miles. I would not want to take on the risk of owning any Mercedes with 150k+ miles personally.
There are a handful of things to check.
I have to disagree with JohnnyC here, I would buy pre-2013. getting you the M272 vs the M276 engine. The 272 is a proven engine that is relatively trouble free and reliable. It is easy to service. The M276 has added complexities of direct injection, and seem to be a little more time intensive for regular service such as spark plugs. This should also get you into a truck that does not have auto stop start and will only have one main battery, keeping things simple.
check the pano roof and shade operation thoroughly, they frequently fail. Check to make sure the tailgate doesn't make any clicking noises. The transmission and transfer cases on these trucks are one unit, its a dumb design. They are prone to leaking and are expensive to repair, failure is not uncommon. Transmission service is important to have been completed / recorded. Check electric steering wheel adjust operation, these frequently break / jam. Make sure there is no vibration in the drivers seat or gas pedal as that typically indicates failed motor mounts which are expensive in labor to replace, they also seem to fail every 60,000 miles or so. Make sure the navigation screen looks like its working normally. Check for pending OBD codes if you have the tools (such has icarsoft i980). Command screen is known to fail. "Mbtex" fake leather is common to see cracked on seat.
do a thorough test drive and inspection as you would any used car for the rest of the normal stuff. They are simple cars, ours has been dependable and mostly trouble free for the last two years. Having said that, I do not plan to own mine beyond 85,000-100,000 miles. I would not want to take on the risk of owning any Mercedes with 150k+ miles personally.
Last edited by B737; 02-23-2019 at 08:31 AM.
01-23-2019, 12:21 PM
#5
Junior Member
Mine is a 2010 4matic, almost 150k miles.
I would definitely buy a 2010 at this mileage, but try to make sure all recommended maintenance and service has been done and on time, and get a good mechanic familiar with these vehicles to do an inspection. So just to add to what was already said.
At 150 they also recommend new coolant and fuel filter. Also would be great if the front and rear differential fluid was already replaced.
Tires are expensive, so if it comes with new ones, that's good
The ESL just failed on mine recently, so I would ask if they had any issues, with my car I had no warning signs, it just failed.
Ask about the age of battery.
All the issues I've had are pretty much electrical and cooling system related, failed esl, failed power lift gate, failed parktronic sensors, stuck open thermostat, failed water pump pulley , upper and lower radiator hose leaks, plus usual wear, nothing that's uncommon.
I would definitely buy a 2010 at this mileage, but try to make sure all recommended maintenance and service has been done and on time, and get a good mechanic familiar with these vehicles to do an inspection. So just to add to what was already said.
At 150 they also recommend new coolant and fuel filter. Also would be great if the front and rear differential fluid was already replaced.
Tires are expensive, so if it comes with new ones, that's good
The ESL just failed on mine recently, so I would ask if they had any issues, with my car I had no warning signs, it just failed.
Ask about the age of battery.
All the issues I've had are pretty much electrical and cooling system related, failed esl, failed power lift gate, failed parktronic sensors, stuck open thermostat, failed water pump pulley , upper and lower radiator hose leaks, plus usual wear, nothing that's uncommon.
01-30-2019, 12:31 AM
#6
Super Member
Reliability is very individual of the car's history and maintenance. I would still take the more horsepower, better fuel efficiency, creature comforts, slightly better torque, column gear selector, & looks of the M276 equipped GLKs. The direct injection is NOT even a consideration or car purchase criteria for most people. Go on any of the used car websites like autotrader and the majority of people narrow their search down to drivetrain, engine cylinders, paint color, mileage, etc.
10 year old cars will need maintenance sooner than 7 year old cars; just look at the forum. You can see owners of the earlier generation will be posting more frequently about maintenance inquiries. Not to say the older GLKs are bad, there are so many where I live it is nice to see them still on the road.
10 year old cars will need maintenance sooner than 7 year old cars; just look at the forum. You can see owners of the earlier generation will be posting more frequently about maintenance inquiries. Not to say the older GLKs are bad, there are so many where I live it is nice to see them still on the road.
