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Hello and welcome to another story of my never ending troublesome 2013 GLK 250.
I was driving my 2013 GLK 250 when it started shifting rough, turbo wasn't boosting, and check engine light came on. Finally got home and checked the codes and got:
P0299 - turbo underboost
P25B3 - Generic error Message.
I googled all over and couldn't find what P25B3 was. I'm using a Generic code reader, not mercedes specific. At the moment the car drives and shifts really rough...
If anyone could tell me what this error code means, that'll be great! Thank you!
Hello and welcome to another story of my never ending troublesome 2013 GLK 250.
I was driving my 2013 GLK 250 when it started shifting rough, turbo wasn't boosting, and check engine light came on. Finally got home and checked the codes and got:
P0299 - turbo underboost
P25B3 - Generic error Message.
I googled all over and couldn't find what P25B3 was. I'm using a Generic code reader, not mercedes specific. At the moment the car drives and shifts really rough...
If anyone could tell me what this error code means, that'll be great! Thank you!
You need to get a better scanner tool to find out the exact code. If i could guess, ur intake manifold swirl flap are now at close position which cause the engine lack of air. It feels very similar to like a transmission problem. In terms of your turbo not getting enough boost, i will check for the condition of the intercooler pipe. It is a very common issue that the intake pipe has a crack and cause the air leak. Again, we won't know until a proper scanner to read your codes. Parts and labour are way too expansive. Getting a proper diagnosis is the way to start.
I've read that lots of people with error code "P0299" had a crack hose on their intercooler pipes so i checked yesterday and both inlet and outlet pipe looks good. I think P25B3 is the main issue that is also triggering P0299. I just wanted to know if error code P25B3 was something someone had issues with in the past and how they fixed it so i can check on it myself or if it's too difficult and needed to be brought in to a shop. Looks like i'll be bringing it in to the dealer since i don't have enough time to play with this issue myself. Thanks everyone for your input, I appreciate it. I'll be back to post what the error code means to anyone who's interested.
I've read that lots of people with error code "P0299" had a crack hose on their intercooler pipes so i checked yesterday and both inlet and outlet pipe looks good. I think P25B3 is the main issue that is also triggering P0299. I just wanted to know if error code P25B3 was something someone had issues with in the past and how they fixed it so i can check on it myself or if it's too difficult and needed to be brought in to a shop. Looks like i'll be bringing it in to the dealer since i don't have enough time to play with this issue myself. Thanks everyone for your input, I appreciate it. I'll be back to post what the error code means to anyone who's interested.
P25B3 - Turbocharger Wastegate 'A' Stuck Open. Only know this because i have the same codes as you! Car is currently in limp mode or actually does have boost leak. I have manually verified that both vastegates are working properly by using vacuum pump on actuators. I replaced the I/C hose before so that's not it. Going to a shop to see if their scanner is any better. I just hope it's not a turbo failure since this was a sudden loss of power.
There are 2 intercooler hoses; have both been checked/replaced?
A sudden loss of boost will result in sudden loss of power. If it was mechanical-related, you'd hear new noises with the engine running. In the case of a blown turbo, there would likely be black smoke from the exhaust too, as oil would be getting past the seal and ingested into the intake.
If both i/c hoses check out, continue around the intake path for loose couplings, evidence of oil, exhaust smell and the like.
There are 2 intercooler hoses; have both been checked/replaced?
A sudden loss of boost will result in sudden loss of power. If it was mechanical-related, you'd hear new noises with the engine running. In the case of a blown turbo, there would likely be black smoke from the exhaust too, as oil would be getting past the seal and ingested into the intake.
If both i/c hoses check out, continue around the intake path for loose couplings, evidence of oil, exhaust smell and the like.
Yes hoses are good on mine. I found this thread: https://sprinter-source.com/forum/sh...d.php?p=731490 - where the guy talks about the way water pump is on the vacuum circuit as well and if it fails you lose the wastegate actuators as well. I just checked mine and it won't hold ANY vacuum. It also leaks a lot so that makes sense. Ordering updated aluminum version (why plastic why oem?). The coolant has made it's way into the actuators and solenoids so I am wondering if the solenoids are now shot and need replacement. Further testing to come later but pump is getting put on regardless...
As you can see from the pictures above my car has the all plastic version of the pump and it basically seeps everywhere at this point. I have in the meantime disconnected the vacuum hose and plugged it so I don't lose any vacuum AND don't introduce any more coolant into the vacuum system. The new all aluminum pump should be here today so I can follow up once installed.
Now back to the issue with underboost - luckily for me, I also own GLK250 which has the same engine as my E250 so I would change a component one at a time (vacuum splitter first, then N75 valve) but there was no change. I only went to these lengths because the wastegate actuator for the small turbo tested good at first. Upon retesting it I noticed that it was leaking vacuum. Once i swapped the one from GLK all is well. Now I am on mission on sourcing a replacement that is not $350! I am in contact with Borg Warner directly and hoping they will answer my request for part number (the one on the car only has their logo not part number). These units are normally $60 but they are all different (spring rates) so it is important to get the right one so I don't overboost. Here are pictures of the faulty unit. As you can see it has baked oil on the rod. The unit itself was oily when removed so I am not sure if this was in the unit from factory or I am possibly dealing with oil leak into the vacuum system elsewhere. The GLK unit was dry and clean.
Searching everywhere - best sites are in Europe...so far this listing has the best price and more importantly lists all relevant part numbers...1 Zloty (Polish currency) = 0.26 USD https://boxmoto.pl/?1054,pl_http-sho...org-warner-kkk
The Issue with my car according to the dealer:
"Perform guided test found no vacuum at turbo. Tested transducers found one leaking and one has stiff movements. Remove and replaced two transducers with vacuum reservoir."
Parts replaced:
651-070-05-68 A Vacuum Container
009-153-31-28 A Pressure Transducer
651-078-07-81 A Molded Hose
601-078-02-45 A Hose, Vacuum Control, VLRUB
000-158-14-35 A Pipe Line
Glad you got it fixed. The vacuum container, which is the black rectangular shaped box on driver's side top of engine was mentioned as prone to failures in the thread i mentioned few posts ago. I was going to test it if all else failed.
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