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I used pullers and picks to get the outter race out, esp on the tranny side. I used the bearing separator that you have to pull the inner races off. There are pics above of that process. I also used some "cups" from bearing pulling toolset. See pics above.
Ok. I have checked under the car for W212 I have to take off both driver and passenger middle part of exhaust. This is will be time consuming task before I get to transfer case because many shield at least one or three I have to remove. So just to open transfer case it could take up 4-5 hours for W212 because it cramped there. SUV better because higher so the part is not compacted.
It so difficult to remove heated oxygen sensor on connector side because it hard to reach. I will take off oxygen sensor instead so I have to buy special socket to remove oxygen sensor.
I did try to open Oxygen sensor and failed. Not easy laying down doing that and exhaust lòose. Si change plan instead i just hang it on the back using bolt rear cross member. Attached my safety jack stand plus wheel stand in case one fail the other will act as backup.
Jack and wheel stand combo. Jack stand had base so it not extend too long.
I have unbolt flex disk to transfer case but it hard to release propeller from transfer case. Did you have to center mount of propeller? Did that did you remove rear exhaust?.
I am able to remove front propeller part of rear drive shaft from transfer case flange. I did watch D cardiologist but he only describe as using pry bar and I watch another youtube show exactly how he release propeller from transfer case using pry bar. Soi after that in 15 minutes I am able to do it. So next jack transmission and release rear cross member.
I read again WIS and it require to remove front propeller shaft (the one go to front diff) and ISM. Did you do it when you fix your transfer case?
What kind of socket I need to open Transfer case flange nut in attached picture?
I found on Autozone 30 mm 12 point axel nut socket for around $20 it fit but not very tight. I didn't want to round the nut. Please let me know what socket you use to open that nut? The torque is 200nm did you use air impact gun?
I am kind of stuck should I buy that $160 MB socket or just use the one from Autozone.
I have checked with Garry Ferraro youtuber transmission specialist and he confirmed he just use Snap On 30mm 12 point. That mean the nut used is regular 12 point 30mm. So I just need to find the one fit tight. The one from Autozone OEMTOOL didn't fit to much play. I will check socket wrench from NAPA maybe try 29mm or 32mm. There is one in Amazon came with chisel to unlock the nut but shipping takes more than 5 days. The tool used for Toyota and Lexus axel nut but same size as used in MB flange nut. I did get another 30mm 12 point from NAPA and it not fit properly I can wiggle left to right around 4mm. I think I don't want to round the bolt which need 150 FT/LB. I would need to buy Mercedes tool cost online around $160.
Finally I got Hazet 900TZ-30 and it fit better than the one from Autozone and NAPA. But still there is play around 2 mm and I think that by design so impact had leverage to bust the nut. I used impact tool
and at lowest setting it open the nut in 2 minutes. I also think should I unbend the nut before opened it and after research it only add 20 ft/lb from 200 nm to open that nut and it not critical because the bend not in threads. So no need MB tool that cost $260 from dealer.
Finally I got the new part after wasting around one month waiting package from dhl express. I ordered the used front gear in transfer case from denmark and suppose to arrive on 5/28. But never arrived and according to dhl stuck in custom in cincinati ohio. One month after that around 6/28 dhl confirmed package lost. So finally i got replacement and arrived few days ago. I did install new bearing on that gear. I also replaced the bearing for gear that drive rear drive shaft. Then I realize that there is another bearing that i didn't have new part. Did you replace the bearing in the next picture? The one inside the gear.
Finally I got the new part after wasting around one month waiting package from dhl express. I ordered the used front gear in transfer case from denmark and suppose to arrive on 5/28. But never arrived and according to dhl stuck in custom in cincinati ohio. One month after that around 6/28 dhl confirmed package lost. So finally i got replacement and arrived few days ago. I did install new bearing on that gear. I also replaced the bearing for gear that drive rear drive shaft. Then I realize that there is another bearing that i didn't have new part. Did you replace the bearing in the next picture? The one inside the gear.
I didn't replace inside bearing. Only the 4 roller bearing and outside flgane ball bearing that wis tells you to replace. Sorry missed other notifications. I used whatever 12pt socket i had handy and a big impact gun to get the flange nut off.
Thanks for responding. I did put two new bearing on front gear and replace one bear bearing on rear gear and will replace the last bearing in rear gear the one in picture. I did installed 4 outer race two in trans case and another two in middle case of transfer case. I will replace two oil seal one for rear and another one for front gear. The one scare me little bit is to apply gasket seal between trans case and middle case of trans case. Also between middle and end of transfer case. This will be my first application. Should I spread it with finger or let it spread naturally when it pressed?
Thanks for responding. I did put two new bearing on front gear and replace one bear bearing on rear gear and will replace the last bearing in rear gear the one in picture. I did installed 4 outer race two in trans case and another two in middle case of transfer case. I will replace two oil seal one for rear and another one for front gear. The one scare me little bit is to apply gasket seal between trans case and middle case of trans case. Also between middle and end of transfer case. This will be my first application. Should I spread it with finger or let it spread naturally when it pressed?
You want thin continuous bead of RTV. Read my thread and see what I did. I had to do it twice because I had a leak after first time. I have seen ppl spreading it but it's not the correct way. Also the bead needs to be very thin. Less is better.
Also see my comments on the install of the front shaft seal. I messed that up. Put the seal on the gear part and use it to press the seal into the transmission housing. You can tap very lightly with a hammer. If you put seal into housing first you will mess it up when installing gears.
Your posting really help me to fix my transfer case problem and I also knew now how to put the seal for front from your problem. Next time if you ever need to do it or you may need to do preventive work to avoid problem I had then you should consider remove corrosion using naval jelly corrosion dissolver and inject with east wood high temp coating paint (withstand 1000F) in inner part of front gear that drive front drive shaft. Also put high temp long life grease enclosed with boot in front drive shaft. It may not impacted 4matic suv but it did do damager to 4mastic sedan. I have seen few youtube that show that front gear had u joint broke and it corroded so bad so a lot of corrosion brown dust came out. It happened in sedan because the space is so tight so it suffered high temperature or maybe water get inside that gear where the u-joint located. GLK 350 and E350 using same component in transfer case. ML or GLE had no impact because it designed with separate transfer case and bigger and strong parts for driving front drive shaft.
NYCGLK did you remember position of shim and pilot bushing of output shaft of transmission. For my car shim is on transmission side instead of pilot bushing, unless I swap it which I didn't remember doing that.
Bust based on WIS the pilot bushing should be close to transmission as show below:
NYCGLK did you remember position of shim and pilot bushing of output shaft of transmission. For my car shim is on transmission side instead of pilot bushing, unless I swap it which I didn't remember doing that.
Bust based on WIS the pilot bushing should be close to transmission as show below:
That mean WIS is wrong. Now I confuse which way should I follow.
To insert the gear for front drive is tough. I did put oil seal in the gear and trying to put in place it stuck. I am afraid to damage so after pull out the front gear the oil seal still good in the gear.
Did you remove the other need of drive shaft connecting to front diff?. If I do that maybe easy to put front gear but it will be tough to push front propeller to that gear in transfer case side.
Did you put pinion first then the side (front) gear?
That mean WIS is wrong. Now I confuse which way should I follow.
To insert the gear for front drive is tough. I did put oil seal in the gear and trying to put in place it stuck. I am afraid to damage so after pull out the front gear the oil seal still good in the gear.
Did you remove the other need of drive shaft connecting to front diff?. If I do that maybe easy to put front gear but it will be tough to push front propeller to that gear in transfer case side.
Did you put pinion first then the side (front) gear?
make sure you align the splines that go into front drive shaft properly.There is one thicker spline. Once the spines were properly aligned I used a big hammer and lighly tapped the center part of the gear. The seal is what prents it from sliding easily in. No need to disconnect the shaft from front diff, that doesn't help.
And yes the front drive gear went in last.
As far as bushing and shim order Im a bit confused too from my pics. I would check some youtube videos. There are a ton on this now.
05-05-2021, 03:12 PM
