P008A
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Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2018
Posts: 16
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GLK350
P008A
Does anyone have any experience with the P008A (low fuel pressure) code? I have been getting a check engine light on and off for over 6 months. I bought a dongle for the OBDII port and an app for my android phone and that is the code it gets. I've taken it to the dealer twice for it and both times the light went off while enroute. He never mentioned the P008A code.
I haven't noticed a drop in performance. The light will remain on for a few days, then goes out. I've scanned it after the light went out and the code was still there so I'm confused as to why the dealership couldn't find it or didn't mention.
I called my semi-local dealership yesterday hoping to get an appointment for next Wednesday to get it looked at while I stayed there. I was told I would have to leave it with them for 2 or 3 days as they have 100+ vehicles waiting to be serviced. It sounds like they need more dealerships.
Thanks.
I haven't noticed a drop in performance. The light will remain on for a few days, then goes out. I've scanned it after the light went out and the code was still there so I'm confused as to why the dealership couldn't find it or didn't mention.
I called my semi-local dealership yesterday hoping to get an appointment for next Wednesday to get it looked at while I stayed there. I was told I would have to leave it with them for 2 or 3 days as they have 100+ vehicles waiting to be serviced. It sounds like they need more dealerships.
Thanks.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Sep 2015
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2013 glk 350
I’m just guessing at what I would do first. I would replace my gas cap with a non Chinese unit, and check for leaks . A filter is a next option , but by looking at one on FCP Euro , it looks gas tank mounted . Don’t go to a dealer for this . You will be reamed 1-2000 . A good mechanic should fix you fairly . ( what’s fair when you own. MB ? ) I have a friend who is cheap so I’m lucky. It sucks that because you own a MB you have to pay because they were not designed for longevity. I know some earlier models were . But repair costs are basically insane .
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2018
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GLK350
I took it to the dealership in November of 2022. They said ti was the fuel pump and replaced it for the second time in 11 months. In March I got the codes again. I to it back to the dealership and this time they replaced the fuel filter/fuel regulator assembly. The CEL is no longer lit. I'll believe it is fixed if it lasts a year without coming back.
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W204 2013 C250 Coupe
I took it to the dealership in November of 2022. They said ti was the fuel pump and replaced it for the second time in 11 months. In March I got the codes again. I to it back to the dealership and this time they replaced the fuel filter/fuel regulator assembly. The CEL is no longer lit. I'll believe it is fixed if it lasts a year without coming back.
MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
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From: WI
GLK 250
Sounds like replacing the fuel filter on a schedule (like maybe 80-100k miles) might have prevented some of your troubles. A clogged filter will force the pump to work harder to circulate liquids, in turn making it run hotter and shortening its lifespan. A completely clogged filter will soon ruin a brand new pump as well.
One of the benefits of running mostly diesels all my life is that fuel filters are typically easily accessible and changed regularly.
One of the benefits of running mostly diesels all my life is that fuel filters are typically easily accessible and changed regularly.
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GLK350
The first fuel pump was replaced on 01/25/2022 when the vehicle had 48,168 miles on it. The next one was replaced on 11/28/2022 when it had 55,973 miles on it. The fuel regulator/fuel filter assembly was just done on 05/05/2023 and the vehicle had 58,625 miles on it.
I also have a 2013 VW Tiguan with 80k miles and have not had any fueling issues with it.
My a/c is not working well now. The passenger side was blowing much warner than the driver's side yesterday. I'm hoping this vehicle doesn't turn into a money pit. We do like it.
I also have a 2013 VW Tiguan with 80k miles and have not had any fueling issues with it.
My a/c is not working well now. The passenger side was blowing much warner than the driver's side yesterday. I'm hoping this vehicle doesn't turn into a money pit. We do like it.
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MBWorld Fanatic!
Joined: Jul 2012
Posts: 1,369
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From: WI
GLK 250
With a VW, you're likely to be chasing some coil pack(s) and/or misfire issues down the road, or an HPFP that has been revised several times due to previous poor design. Been there, done that...
On the A/C, I would have it checked for proper refrigerant pressures. If it was working OK last warm season and you're not in the habit of using the A/C periodically even during the winter months (great for defogging interior) then it may have developed a slight leak around one of the many O-rings that might've gotten dried out. After all, it is 10 years old. It might not be a bad idea to have it checked by a good A/C shop.
I'd caution you to resist the temptation to simply add more refrigerant from a can to the system. VW (and other German makes) use variable displacement A/C compressors which are sensitive to over/under pressurization. The best way to get it checked is to have a shop evacuate the system, pull vacuum for a few hours to ensure there aren't any leaks, then refill it with the exact correct amount of refrigerant.
Good luck with both cars. German makes can be finicky to properly diagnose, but that's usually the only real hard part. Most repairs are easy enough and there are plenty of tutorials on YT to help.
On the A/C, I would have it checked for proper refrigerant pressures. If it was working OK last warm season and you're not in the habit of using the A/C periodically even during the winter months (great for defogging interior) then it may have developed a slight leak around one of the many O-rings that might've gotten dried out. After all, it is 10 years old. It might not be a bad idea to have it checked by a good A/C shop.
I'd caution you to resist the temptation to simply add more refrigerant from a can to the system. VW (and other German makes) use variable displacement A/C compressors which are sensitive to over/under pressurization. The best way to get it checked is to have a shop evacuate the system, pull vacuum for a few hours to ensure there aren't any leaks, then refill it with the exact correct amount of refrigerant.
Good luck with both cars. German makes can be finicky to properly diagnose, but that's usually the only real hard part. Most repairs are easy enough and there are plenty of tutorials on YT to help.
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Joined: Apr 2023
Posts: 166
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Rental
The first fuel pump was replaced on 01/25/2022 when the vehicle had 48,168 miles on it. The next one was replaced on 11/28/2022 when it had 55,973 miles on it. The fuel regulator/fuel filter assembly was just done on 05/05/2023 and the vehicle had 58,625 miles on it.
I also have a 2013 VW Tiguan with 80k miles and have not had any fueling issues with it.
My a/c is not working well now. The passenger side was blowing much warner than the driver's side yesterday. I'm hoping this vehicle doesn't turn into a money pit. We do like it.
I also have a 2013 VW Tiguan with 80k miles and have not had any fueling issues with it.
My a/c is not working well now. The passenger side was blowing much warner than the driver's side yesterday. I'm hoping this vehicle doesn't turn into a money pit. We do like it.
Super Member
Joined: Feb 2023
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
You shouldn't be getting fuel smells when refueling. Are you topping off the tank when filling up? If so, it's likely you've saturated the charcoal filter cannister that's used to capture "just vapor" which can cause evap system errors (not sure if it could affect fuel pressure, but the evap systems are so (annoyingly, unnecessarily) complex that it wouldn't surprise me much.
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Rental
You shouldn't be getting fuel smells when refueling. Are you topping off the tank when filling up? If so, it's likely you've saturated the charcoal filter cannister that's used to capture "just vapor" which can cause evap system errors (not sure if it could affect fuel pressure, but the evap systems are so (annoyingly, unnecessarily) complex that it wouldn't surprise me much.
As for the smell and topping off the tank, it's filled up till it clicks no more. Again ,95% of the smell was eliminated because of a cracked plastic cover under the back seat, passenger side. Other side might give a very little oder just after filling.
Since curing the ever common m276 startup rattle 3k miles ago I've kept it in Eco mode.. I read some keep it in S mode to curb this issue, but that might be relevant to a high side not low side pump code. I've also read fuel additives to boost octane. I can only get 91 here.
Last edited by GLKwanter; Dec 23, 2023 at 11:08 AM.
Super Member
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I'm not sure what the accidental downshift did. Can't imagine that doing anything that would affect fuel pressure. Nor can I see how changing modes from E to S (or back) would, either. Or using premium or regular, for that matter (it's not like the fuel pump cares either way). Maybe I'm missing something?
FWIW, I run pretty much only regular and have for years in three "premium only cars" (a 2004 Acura MDX, 2006 BMW 530xi Touring, and my 2011 GLK 350). No issues with a combined 160-170,000 miles (other than losing a few horsepower at wide open throttle). Like all modern vehicles, the engine management computers are fully able to adjust for octane (or lack thereof) and will prevent any ill effects. That wan't the case in the bad old days, where the huge V8 in your 60-70's muscle car could melt down because of preignition (pinging / knocking).
FWIW, I run pretty much only regular and have for years in three "premium only cars" (a 2004 Acura MDX, 2006 BMW 530xi Touring, and my 2011 GLK 350). No issues with a combined 160-170,000 miles (other than losing a few horsepower at wide open throttle). Like all modern vehicles, the engine management computers are fully able to adjust for octane (or lack thereof) and will prevent any ill effects. That wan't the case in the bad old days, where the huge V8 in your 60-70's muscle car could melt down because of preignition (pinging / knocking).
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2013 glk 350
You said you fill up “until it clicks no more” does that mean you keep filling even when after the first click - stop? You can’t keep filling after the first stop or it’s overfilled and will smell and probably damage something. I also use regular often , the computer compensates correctly so there is no pre - ignition.
Member
Joined: Apr 2023
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Rental
Light just came back on. This time in the garage after sitting 2 days. Right off after turnoff/restart. I'm thinking 221470189028, 2114710179, and 2114710110 are in order. $163. Hoping this saves a lp fuel pump. Any input appreciated.
Last edited by GLKwanter; Jan 1, 2024 at 08:06 PM.
