Drive belt and tensioner
Took it to the dealer and he has recommended B service initially.
Then he added the following:
- Tag bulbs $70.00
- Main battery $480.00
- Engine air filter $170.00
- Spark plugs $ 675.
- Drive belt and tensioner $ 999
Ad how often do we change the spark plugs??
I can’t understand why people pay those rip off prices !




An auto parts store can check your battery and replace it right there if needed for ½ that price.
Some GLK model manuals were weirdly recommending spark plugs at 47,500 miles. Even the dealer said 60,000. My indie mechanic said 100,000. They’ll go 150,000 but 100,000 would be common for platinum or iridium plugs.
If the belt isn’t slipping, there’s no need for replacing the tensioner. The bearings can go bad, but the noise will let you know.
Assuming you don't to do any of the work, just find a good German car mechanic and they will be half of those prices.
The battery takes 15 mins and lots of the Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, etc will change them for free and about half that cost.
Air filters take about 15 mins, and even your oil change place will be cheaper than $170. They would also do the bulb for less.
I'd ask why a tensioner is needed and the belt should last 100k miles easy. I just did mine at 110k and it looked just fine.
Took it to the dealer and he has recommended B service initially.
Then he added the following:
- Tag bulbs $70.00
- Main battery $480.00
- Engine air filter $170.00
- Spark plugs $ 675.
- Drive belt and tensioner $ 999
Ad how often do we change the spark plugs??
I assume this is 2010-2012 year. Air filter (30bucks) together with plugs (50 bucks) is 2 hour job and easy DIY but any car mechanic can do this. If it's 2013+ then plugs are more involved job.
Belt, tensioner and idle pulleys are under 200 bucks for OEM in parts and 1-2 hours in labor tops.
You local autozone can replace your battery for free if you buy from them (150-200 bucks)
No comment on bubs..that's just silly.
Plugs are 60k mile item on 2010-2012 GLK.
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I own a 2014 GLK 250 Diesel 165K on it, having a issue with the belt tensioner bouncing a lot. Replaced 3 idler pulleys, water pump , A/c clutch, new belt and belt tensioner ( all parts bought from MB dealer). But still having the same issue of belt tensioner bouncing and noisy. I need help to find the real culprit.
Thanx.
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I own a 2014 GLK 250 Diesel 165K on it, having a issue with the belt tensioner bouncing a lot. Replaced 3 idler pulleys, water pump , A/c clutch, new belt and belt tensioner ( all parts bought from MB dealer). But still having the same issue of belt tensioner bouncing and noisy. I need help to find the real culprit.
Thanx.
1) "Bouncing a lot" could be a relative term. I've never seen a serpentine belt that was absolutely still when the engine is idling, and that can be interpreted as "too much" bounce by some. Not saying that's the case here, but it would be very helpful to get a video or better description of just how much that belt is moving.
2) If everything that's been replaced is fine (and it sure sound like it is) I'd be very concerned that there's a component that the belt turns that's got a serious issue (no doubt, leading to a "bigger failure" in the near future). I'd suggest using a mechanic's stethoscope (~$5 from Harbor Freight, for example) to probe anything the belt is turning for "interesting noises". If there's a bearing / bushing that's getting ready to check out, chances are it'll be complaining loud enough to easily hear.
3) And just to be thorough, double (triple...) check that your belt routing is correct. I've put belts on wrong before (or at least tried to). It always seems SO easy when you are taking them off - "it's so OBVIOUS how this belt goes back on":... Then a couple hours later after the repair is complete, I end up trying 2-3 times to get it all right. I ended up just drawing a simple diagram on a piece of wide blue masking tape, and stuck it on my radiator cover so I don't have to go online to save myself from my "time saving effort". ;-)





