GLK-Class (X204) Produced 2008-2014

Drive belt and tensioner

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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 12:26 PM
  #1  
Kjg19720's Avatar
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GLK350
Angry Drive belt and tensioner

I had a A1 service light pop up on my vehicle that has 140K+ miles now.
Took it to the dealer and he has recommended B service initially.
Then he added the following:
  1. Tag bulbs $70.00
  2. Main battery $480.00
  3. Engine air filter $170.00
  4. Spark plugs $ 675.
  5. Drive belt and tensioner $ 999
Now the question is what's wrong with the tensioner belt??
Ad how often do we change the spark plugs??
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 05:05 PM
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2013 glk 350
You should be asking what’s wrong with all the prices , they are 3x higher than you can get done anywhere from any qualified mechanic.

I can’t understand why people pay those rip off prices !
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Old Jun 15, 2022 | 09:48 PM
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2021 GLB250 FWD, 2023 GLA250 FWD, 2013 C250, 2015 GLK350, 2005 ML350SE, 2003 E320
If you have been maintaining it and A1 service is what is shown, that’s what is needed. That’s about $250 for oil, filter, air filter & wiper blades with a “check” of about 35 other things. Some dealers present a laundry list of services just to see if you’ll say okay.
An auto parts store can check your battery and replace it right there if needed for ½ that price.
Some GLK model manuals were weirdly recommending spark plugs at 47,500 miles. Even the dealer said 60,000. My indie mechanic said 100,000. They’ll go 150,000 but 100,000 would be common for platinum or iridium plugs.
If the belt isn’t slipping, there’s no need for replacing the tensioner. The bearings can go bad, but the noise will let you know.
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Old Jun 16, 2022 | 03:40 AM
  #4  
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Regarding the plugs. I'm told and it makes sense that the plug change is timed to avoid potential seizing. Not strictly due to plug degradation. I did mine at 90,00 miles-ish, they were in fine condition.
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 12:05 PM
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From: DFW, Texas
GLK350 4Matic
I've got a 2010 and did the plugs myself at 90k miles. Took about an hour, max, and cost about $110 with tax from Advanced Auto parts.

Assuming you don't to do any of the work, just find a good German car mechanic and they will be half of those prices.

The battery takes 15 mins and lots of the Advanced Auto, Auto Zone, etc will change them for free and about half that cost.

Air filters take about 15 mins, and even your oil change place will be cheaper than $170. They would also do the bulb for less.

I'd ask why a tensioner is needed and the belt should last 100k miles easy. I just did mine at 110k and it looked just fine.
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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 02:19 PM
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GLK 350 / Porsche 993
Originally Posted by Kjg19720
I had a A1 service light pop up on my vehicle that has 140K+ miles now.
Took it to the dealer and he has recommended B service initially.
Then he added the following:
  1. Tag bulbs $70.00
  2. Main battery $480.00
  3. Engine air filter $170.00
  4. Spark plugs $ 675.
  5. Drive belt and tensioner $ 999
Now the question is what's wrong with the tensioner belt??
Ad how often do we change the spark plugs??
WOW! talk about highway rubbery.
I assume this is 2010-2012 year. Air filter (30bucks) together with plugs (50 bucks) is 2 hour job and easy DIY but any car mechanic can do this. If it's 2013+ then plugs are more involved job.
Belt, tensioner and idle pulleys are under 200 bucks for OEM in parts and 1-2 hours in labor tops.
You local autozone can replace your battery for free if you buy from them (150-200 bucks)
No comment on bubs..that's just silly.



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Old Jul 4, 2022 | 02:37 PM
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From: Northern NJ
GLK 350 / Porsche 993
Originally Posted by Kjg19720
Now the question is what's wrong with the tensioner belt??
Ad how often do we change the spark plugs??
Tensioner and pulleys have bearings that wear out over time (squeal on moist days is a good sign). Those are cheap items and good to replace on any 10+ year old car with over 100k miles, otherwise you are risking one of them seizing and ripping the belt making the car immediately inoperable. Do not drive if that ever happens because the belt drives the waterpump required for cooling.

Plugs are 60k mile item on 2010-2012 GLK.
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 02:56 AM
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2014 MB GLK 250 Bluetec
Drive belt tensioner

Hello All,
I own a 2014 GLK 250 Diesel 165K on it, having a issue with the belt tensioner bouncing a lot. Replaced 3 idler pulleys, water pump , A/c clutch, new belt and belt tensioner ( all parts bought from MB dealer). But still having the same issue of belt tensioner bouncing and noisy. I need help to find the real culprit.
Thanx.
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 05:25 AM
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2013 glk 350
I’m just guessing here, it was designed with a specific tension to be placed on the belt that can be measured if you can find the specifications and get a little scale to measure the pull. Contact a few manufacturers and ask them how to do it, it’s probably the belt tensioner , a defective unit. FCP euro gas a very good lifetime warranty on all things they sell. Yes you can even return batteries brakes and oil ! Buy your parts from them. Even ask them about belt tension
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 01:06 PM
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
Originally Posted by NYCGLK
WOW! talk about highway rubbery.
I thought that only happened at tire stores...
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Old Oct 4, 2024 | 01:16 PM
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
Originally Posted by grasser
Hello All,
I own a 2014 GLK 250 Diesel 165K on it, having a issue with the belt tensioner bouncing a lot. Replaced 3 idler pulleys, water pump , A/c clutch, new belt and belt tensioner ( all parts bought from MB dealer). But still having the same issue of belt tensioner bouncing and noisy. I need help to find the real culprit.
Thanx.
A few thoughts on this one...

1) "Bouncing a lot" could be a relative term. I've never seen a serpentine belt that was absolutely still when the engine is idling, and that can be interpreted as "too much" bounce by some. Not saying that's the case here, but it would be very helpful to get a video or better description of just how much that belt is moving.
2) If everything that's been replaced is fine (and it sure sound like it is) I'd be very concerned that there's a component that the belt turns that's got a serious issue (no doubt, leading to a "bigger failure" in the near future). I'd suggest using a mechanic's stethoscope (~$5 from Harbor Freight, for example) to probe anything the belt is turning for "interesting noises". If there's a bearing / bushing that's getting ready to check out, chances are it'll be complaining loud enough to easily hear.
3) And just to be thorough, double (triple...) check that your belt routing is correct. I've put belts on wrong before (or at least tried to). It always seems SO easy when you are taking them off - "it's so OBVIOUS how this belt goes back on":... Then a couple hours later after the repair is complete, I end up trying 2-3 times to get it all right. I ended up just drawing a simple diagram on a piece of wide blue masking tape, and stuck it on my radiator cover so I don't have to go online to save myself from my "time saving effort". ;-)
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