2015 GLK350 Alternate Spark Plugs
I am about to perform first Spark Plug change on my 2015 GLK350 (276 Engine), and purchased OEM MB Plugs from the dealer, as well as BOSCHZR6SII3320 [OE Fine Wire Double Iridium; Pre-Set Gap: 0.027" (0.7mm)] from RockAuto.
The gap, and the overall electrode geometry look very different between the two sets of plugs, and although I understand the Bosch are Double Iridium type, I wondered if anyone here had any experience with these alternate to OEM Spark Plugs?
I am also replacing the coils with BOSCH branded coils (Coil 5 of the factory installed coils has failed).
Thank you
Last edited by CERNICALO1; Sep 27, 2022 at 09:24 AM. Reason: incorrect year listed on Title




The part OE number is
https://www.mbpartshaus.com/oem-part...Y2LWdhcw%3D%3D
Tap the picture to enlarge.
BTW, I bough the 6 plugs at the dealer, for reference, while I was there for other items. Ended up installing the BOSH plugs, but I am having issues starting the car after also changing ignition coils, and PCV Valve (which also requires the High Pressure Fuel Pump to be partially removed)




The WIS procedure involves removing the intake manifold. Reinstalling it needs new gaskets and careful reassembly to avoid air leaks.
The “shade tree” method doesn’t remove the intake which eliminates the leak problem. But access is tight and it makes reinstalling the coils and seating the boots more difficult. Most DIYers use this method, but dielectric grease or silicone lube is needed to seat the boots.
Which method did you use?
Replacing the crankcase vent valve on my 2015 did not create any starting issues.
I did take the manifold off, and replaced the 6 intake plenum/manifold gaskets prior to reinstall (holes kept well covered during repair). I did not use dielectric grease for the plugs, but made sure to push in the new ignition coil boots into the plugs as I replaced both.
My fear is that the follower between the camshaft and the HPFuel Pump may not be sitting in place correctly after I reassembled that area. Secondarily, perhaps the plugs and the coil buts are not making perfect contact.
However, I am hoping that I am missing a much simpler step to either re-set a fuel cut off switch (I just disconnected fuel lines from HPFP, w/o any prep step for fuel pressure drop), or perhaps a step required to remove any air from the engine section of the fuel lines. Do you know of any such procedures?
Thanks again for your help!
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Beyond that one quick fuse check, I would suggest scanning for codes to help locate the root of the problem. It is highly unlikely that you would have poor connection on all of your spark plugs anyway.
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The issue turned out to be that the cam follower for the HPFP had actually completely fallen off at some point while I was working on the PCV (I was exhausted, and missed it). The sucker actually hid from me when I went looking for it once the car did not start, but when I confirmed it was not it place, I had to get a mechanic's mirror with lights, and spotted it in a nook on the back side of the engine.
I am confident that I can perform the PCV Valve, plugs, and coils replacement now in less than 2 hours, but man...., what a pain in the *** the first time.
Best of luck to you all






