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I have a 2014 glk350. last night I came back from a day trip to a normal car. unlocked with key fob, instrument cluster on. when I pressed start, the entire electrical system shut down. no flashers, not locks, nada. then using the jumping post and energizing the system, all is good. problem is no codes in the system. just "all good". I am thinking there is a module going bad but no idea where to look. all the shops want to do is "hook it up" but already tried.
Did you have the battery tested? Sounds like the attempt to start pushed it over the edge. Either that, or you need to clean and tighten the battery terminals.
battery is perfect. as it the aux battery. not a battery issue. I did go test and both came up 100%. this is a "system" gremlin. my next thought is to pull, clean and reseat the fuses. the major ones. That is all I can come up with. I have seen this post in the thread. some talk about a battery control module? but it was a different car.
I have a 2014 glk350. last night I came back from a day trip to a normal car. unlocked with key fob, instrument cluster on. when I pressed start, the entire electrical system shut down. no flashers, not locks, nada. then using the jumping post and energizing the system, all is good. problem is no codes in the system. just "all good". I am thinking there is a module going bad but no idea where to look. all the shops want to do is "hook it up" but already tried.
Just a guess, but it sounds like something in the pre-fuse block. A wild-a**ed guess is the quiescent current relay.
I’ve had an intermittent battery not charging, and draining for a long time , many years, it was a bad regulator that attaches to the alternator. 2013 Glk 350. The part was 100$ at fcp. Alternators are 500.00 for a Valeo, and 1,100 for MB. But the part that fails is usually the regulator , for 50- 100$.
I know it doesn’t sound like that, but what you describe doesn’t make sense to me . You should have your own volt meter and battery tester.
I had mine professionally tested, the alternator and battery tested fine. But doing my own load tests I found out it was not ok. It was never charging more than 80% and constantly dropping to 20-40%, and CCA was down by 120 over what my CTEK battery charger would bring it to, which is 99%.
I only have 72000 miles , but the Brushes only had 1/8” when the minimum is 1/4”. With mainly city driving , my 72000 miles equaled about 150,000 on the alternator . Mechanics rarely recommend replacing the Regulator. But that’s what fails.
Maybe your battery was low when you jumped it, then the alternator kicked back in.
I found my problem and diagnosed it using a remote battery monitor, that your phones Bluetooth connects to. CTEK battery monitor . Do your own tests.
When you drove it to get it tested , it just charged up. I think after sitting overnight is when tests should be done again. Maybe you have something draining it. Maybe the battery is not actually holding the charge over time. I had a new battery totally fail after about 5 months.
The graph is what a bad regulator does, all driving on the graph is the same every day , all daytime, one hour a day. A good regulator would not have those dips. Now it holds 95-99% capacity. I only replaced the regulator one week ago . Total cost with labor 150$.
MB would have been 2000.00$ ! But free coffee and donuts!
Replaced it. Really out of ideas. Problem is one power car from jumper terminals. Problem gone and untraceable.
hoping someone solved a similar problem to get some direction on where to look.
I’ve had an intermittent battery not charging, and draining for a long time , many years, it was a bad regulator that attaches to the alternator. 2013 Glk 350. The part was 100$ at fcp. Alternators are 500.00 for a Valeo, and 1,100 for MB. But the part that fails is usually the regulator , for 50- 100$.
I know it doesn’t sound like that, but what you describe doesn’t make sense to me . You should have your own volt meter and battery tester.
I had mine professionally tested, the alternator and battery tested fine. But doing my own load tests I found out it was not ok. It was never charging more than 80% and constantly dropping to 20-40%, and CCA was down by 120 over what my CTEK battery charger would bring it to, which is 99%.
I only have 72000 miles , but the Brushes only had 1/8” when the minimum is 1/4”. With mainly city driving , my 72000 miles equaled about 150,000 on the alternator . Mechanics rarely recommend replacing the Regulator. But that’s what fails.
Maybe your battery was low when you jumped it, then the alternator kicked back in.
I found my problem and diagnosed it using a remote battery monitor, that your phones Bluetooth connects to. CTEK battery monitor . Do your own tests.
When you drove it to get it tested , it just charged up. I think after sitting overnight is when tests should be done again. Maybe you have something draining it. Maybe the battery is not actually holding the charge over time. I had a new battery totally fail after about 5 months.
The graph is what a bad regulator does, all driving on the graph is the same every day , all daytime, one hour a day. A good regulator would not have those dips. Now it holds 95-99% capacity. I only replaced the regulator one week ago . Total cost with labor 150$.
MB would have been 2000.00$ ! But free coffee and donuts!
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