2014 Torque Converter screw removal
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Member
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 119
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From: SoCal
2022 GLC 4Matic
2014 Torque Converter screw removal
Hello All,
Thanks in advance for any input, comment or advice on this topic. I have done my Transmission service twice now, once at 63,xxx Mi. and just now at 124,xxx. Both times the process was messy but simple/doable Except the for the @%#&*@!! Torque Converter screw. Last time I could not get it to budge but was advised to use a Long Allen wrench next time. I got a 4 inch set of "socket" type Allens and additionally heated the screw with my soldering iron. I was able to, with a small "L" Allen wrench, get it loose but not able to remove it. Honestly I stopped at about a 1/16 of a turn realizing that even if I got it out and drained, the Horrible access would likely prevent me from replacing it. So, I tightened it as best I could and finished the job. I rechecked the TC screw for seepage a couple of times after reassembly and driving, No leak. I then purchased an Elkind 9" Allen "T" handle wrench. Found that no matter the position of the screw relative to the "window" I could not engage the screw. If I altered it(bent the tool) I could probably get engagement but probably not reinstall the screw with the bent tool.
SO, my question: If I relieve 1/8th" to 3/16th" of material from the top corner of the "window"(I feel that would facilitate access to both remove and reinstall) is it conceivable that the casting would be appreciably weakened? I'm not in the habit of grinding down parts on this car, but I'm flummoxed by this problem. Side note: When I did the last service the fluid appeared essentially new, this time it was clearly getting used. Darkish, not burned but pronounced oder and a touch of "fuzz" on the magnets. I am using the car now in somewhat mountainous terrain and pulling a small trailer(horse manure, 2-300 pounds most days to dispose of it). I feel like the Full drain and service will keep it performing Beautifully which is my goal...
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance for any input, comment or advice on this topic. I have done my Transmission service twice now, once at 63,xxx Mi. and just now at 124,xxx. Both times the process was messy but simple/doable Except the for the @%#&*@!! Torque Converter screw. Last time I could not get it to budge but was advised to use a Long Allen wrench next time. I got a 4 inch set of "socket" type Allens and additionally heated the screw with my soldering iron. I was able to, with a small "L" Allen wrench, get it loose but not able to remove it. Honestly I stopped at about a 1/16 of a turn realizing that even if I got it out and drained, the Horrible access would likely prevent me from replacing it. So, I tightened it as best I could and finished the job. I rechecked the TC screw for seepage a couple of times after reassembly and driving, No leak. I then purchased an Elkind 9" Allen "T" handle wrench. Found that no matter the position of the screw relative to the "window" I could not engage the screw. If I altered it(bent the tool) I could probably get engagement but probably not reinstall the screw with the bent tool.
SO, my question: If I relieve 1/8th" to 3/16th" of material from the top corner of the "window"(I feel that would facilitate access to both remove and reinstall) is it conceivable that the casting would be appreciably weakened? I'm not in the habit of grinding down parts on this car, but I'm flummoxed by this problem. Side note: When I did the last service the fluid appeared essentially new, this time it was clearly getting used. Darkish, not burned but pronounced oder and a touch of "fuzz" on the magnets. I am using the car now in somewhat mountainous terrain and pulling a small trailer(horse manure, 2-300 pounds most days to dispose of it). I feel like the Full drain and service will keep it performing Beautifully which is my goal...
Thoughts?
Last edited by PACIFICMAN; Oct 16, 2022 at 03:30 PM.
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2016
Posts: 27
Likes: 1
2001 C240
my advice, dont flush your transmissions, ever, drop the oil that comes out and be done with it, too many times people **** with these transmissions and a week or so goes by and it starts driving erratically, next thing you know they're told they need a new one.
i had a c240 with 150k on the same oil, only reason i changed it was because the oil seals failed, still goes to this day, 295k, anytime you open a hydraulic system, you bet you're the one that's going to contaminate it no matter how hard you try. the only thing that stops these things are the grounds and wiring, i only ever had on module fail and it was because of a dumb friend removing the + cable before the ground.
i had a c240 with 150k on the same oil, only reason i changed it was because the oil seals failed, still goes to this day, 295k, anytime you open a hydraulic system, you bet you're the one that's going to contaminate it no matter how hard you try. the only thing that stops these things are the grounds and wiring, i only ever had on module fail and it was because of a dumb friend removing the + cable before the ground.
