Left-4-Dead GLK 350 Back In Action!
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From: South Texas
2014 GLK350 base model (active) ; 2001 E320 base (retired); 2001 Wrangler soft-top
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2018
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From: Moved from WA to SC
GLK350 (2010) (Previous: 220D(71), 230.6(78), 420SEL(88), SL320(96), ML350(07) CurrentGLC 300 (2018)
GLKattitude,
Thank-you for your superb service as an Auto-Crafts educator.
Ray
K-12 Supt (Retd).
Thank-you for your superb service as an Auto-Crafts educator.
Ray
K-12 Supt (Retd).
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I hate to pile on this thread, but need to share some info on my experience so everyone can make an informed decision about buying from Maktrans.
I bought the $480 output shaft assembly from them, and installed it within a week or so. A couple weeks later, I'm doing something else under the car and notice that it's developed a disturbing amount of play in one plane (a sure indicator that one of the internal U-joints is loose). I spent two weeks making MANY attempts to get someone - anyone - from Maktrans to contact me, but had no luck.
Well, today I did get a reply. Here's the sum total of their response:
Good day. We cannot help you from a distance, we need a car at our service to carry out a detailed diagnosis. If the part has been installed, it cannot be returned.
So be warned - Maktrans has no useable warranty for anything they sell (perhaps they do take care of their immediate neighborhood in Poland). And based on my 1/1 failure rate, that doesn't bode well.
I hope someone else can come up with a vendor who can supply that output shaft! I dimly remember someone mentioning someone rebuilding their own (seems do-able, at least with the right shop equipment).
I bought the $480 output shaft assembly from them, and installed it within a week or so. A couple weeks later, I'm doing something else under the car and notice that it's developed a disturbing amount of play in one plane (a sure indicator that one of the internal U-joints is loose). I spent two weeks making MANY attempts to get someone - anyone - from Maktrans to contact me, but had no luck.
Well, today I did get a reply. Here's the sum total of their response:
Good day. We cannot help you from a distance, we need a car at our service to carry out a detailed diagnosis. If the part has been installed, it cannot be returned.
So be warned - Maktrans has no useable warranty for anything they sell (perhaps they do take care of their immediate neighborhood in Poland). And based on my 1/1 failure rate, that doesn't bode well.
I hope someone else can come up with a vendor who can supply that output shaft! I dimly remember someone mentioning someone rebuilding their own (seems do-able, at least with the right shop equipment).
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Since you don't have a lot of options, maybe you could suggest sending it back to them for evaluation, especially if they would agree to replace it should it prove to be bad.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
John, the way I read their (terse...) reply, I doubt they'd honor that. And of course, that would leave my GLK up on stands in the garage for at least several weeks, and maybe result in nothing but me having nothing at all to show for my $480 (plus shipping) if they decided not to return it (or charge another $100 to ship the bad shaft back to me). Not the best situation...
I'm nearly ready to see if I can disassemble my original output shaft. I THINK it's pressed together, perhaps more so than I can un-press with my meager 12-ton home press, but it might be worth a try. Then I'd have to figure out where to get new U-joint bearings (with MB not listing the entire shaft, I wonder if they have any reference to the "internal bits" anywhere).
I'm nearly ready to see if I can disassemble my original output shaft. I THINK it's pressed together, perhaps more so than I can un-press with my meager 12-ton home press, but it might be worth a try. Then I'd have to figure out where to get new U-joint bearings (with MB not listing the entire shaft, I wonder if they have any reference to the "internal bits" anywhere).
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
John, I'm not sure - the original (unmolested) output shaft doesn't have that kind of weld. It's clear that the U-joint stub (the end opposite the output shaft) is pressed in, into a splined interface with a C-clip. Unfortunately, pressing that out will just leave the U-joint flailing around inside the body of the assembly.
My next step is to knock the bearings off the old unit to see if I can determine just how in the world they assembled this thing.
And FWIW, I did get another reply from the self-described "big guy" at Maktrans. Here it is in its entirety:
My next step is to knock the bearings off the old unit to see if I can determine just how in the world they assembled this thing.
And FWIW, I did get another reply from the self-described "big guy" at Maktrans. Here it is in its entirety:
"We have sold hundreds of these shafts! And only one person makes a claim. The problem is in the mirror, best regards."
Sigh... I guess that play clearly shown in my video of that brand new Maktrans part doesn't actually exist. LOL
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From: WI
GLK 250
Sorry to hear you're having troubles with the repair. It was worth the effort, had it actually worked long-term. Wondering if it's even worth considering trying to source a good used unit from another GLK, like from pull-a-part or something.
Also wondering if there's a way you could just disconnect the front shaft out of the TC into the front diff, thereby eliminating the problem entirely (whilst losing 4wd in the process).
Also wondering if there's a way you could just disconnect the front shaft out of the TC into the front diff, thereby eliminating the problem entirely (whilst losing 4wd in the process).
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
I'd consider a good used part (don't want to be swapping this thing out more than is absolutely necessary - it's just not that much fun). ;-) I'm really (!!!) disappointed in Maktrans, and hope that there is (or will be...) another viable alternative for this much-needed part some day.
And FWIW, there's really no way to just do a driveshaft delete. I tried it (really, just to move the car around and into my garage), and it just doesn't work. When I took apart the assembly that drives the rear propshaft (aka driveshaft) it was clear why. Basically, our GLKs have non-interruptible FRONT wheel drive, but the power to the rear wheels is through a device that allows for the slight variation in front-to-rear tire diameters / traction loss, etc., and it's just not a solid connection. I suppose it might be possible to reconfigure (read "break") this device so it's permanently locked, but by that point it's really not much more work to just stick in a new front output shaft.
And FWIW, there's really no way to just do a driveshaft delete. I tried it (really, just to move the car around and into my garage), and it just doesn't work. When I took apart the assembly that drives the rear propshaft (aka driveshaft) it was clear why. Basically, our GLKs have non-interruptible FRONT wheel drive, but the power to the rear wheels is through a device that allows for the slight variation in front-to-rear tire diameters / traction loss, etc., and it's just not a solid connection. I suppose it might be possible to reconfigure (read "break") this device so it's permanently locked, but by that point it's really not much more work to just stick in a new front output shaft.
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From: WI
GLK 250
Originally Posted by habbyguy
Basically, our GLKs have non-interruptible FRONT wheel drive, but the power to the rear wheels is through a device that allows for the slight variation in front-to-rear tire diameters / traction loss, etc., and it's just not a solid connection. I suppose it might be possible to reconfigure (read "break") this device so it's permanently locked, but by that point it's really not much more work to just stick in a new front output shaft.
Excellent info, wasn't quite sure how that worked but makes sense seeing as how the "front diff" is actually integrated into the transmission, therefore shares the same lube.
Hoping you'll be able to come up with a fix, as I know the current situation is frustrating.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
Just FYI, I couldn't tell much from the video, but I'll look again.
(I have an eye exam coming up next month...)
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Joined: Feb 2020
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From: Lac Ste. Marie, Quebec
2006 Alfa Romeo Brera, 2010 GLK350, 2018 BMW 640i GT, 1997 Subaru SVX, 2012 Moto Guzzi Norge GT8V
Such flawed logic. What he is saying is because you're the only one with a failed part it must be your fault. If they had a few dozen failures then it would be possible they are at fault.
You should make it your mission to soil their reputation to the far ends of the internet. He must not realize the power of social media. Because of his failure to accept responsibility for your one part, you could potentially cost him hundreds or even thousands of lost sales. Negative reviews are a very strong tool in sales.
You should make it your mission to soil their reputation to the far ends of the internet. He must not realize the power of social media. Because of his failure to accept responsibility for your one part, you could potentially cost him hundreds or even thousands of lost sales. Negative reviews are a very strong tool in sales.
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From: New Hampsha
'17 GLS450, '14 GLK250, Grandpa's Roadster
I would suggest that before embarking on the scorched earth mission you take the part out and prove conclusively that it is faulty. Then, make one last attempt to get it resolved, then threaten. I bet in the long run you would be happier with a working part than the satisfaction of knowing that you ruined their reputation.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jan 2023
Posts: 88
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From: Blue Oval City, TN
2013 GLK 350
I'd consider a good used part (don't want to be swapping this thing out more than is absolutely necessary - it's just not that much fun). ;-) I'm really (!!!) disappointed in Maktrans, and hope that there is (or will be...) another viable alternative for this much-needed part some day.
And FWIW, there's really no way to just do a driveshaft delete. I tried it (really, just to move the car around and into my garage), and it just doesn't work. When I took apart the assembly that drives the rear propshaft (aka driveshaft) it was clear why. Basically, our GLKs have non-interruptible FRONT wheel drive, but the power to the rear wheels is through a device that allows for the slight variation in front-to-rear tire diameters / traction loss, etc., and it's just not a solid connection. I suppose it might be possible to reconfigure (read "break") this device so it's permanently locked, but by that point it's really not much more work to just stick in a new front output shaft.
And FWIW, there's really no way to just do a driveshaft delete. I tried it (really, just to move the car around and into my garage), and it just doesn't work. When I took apart the assembly that drives the rear propshaft (aka driveshaft) it was clear why. Basically, our GLKs have non-interruptible FRONT wheel drive, but the power to the rear wheels is through a device that allows for the slight variation in front-to-rear tire diameters / traction loss, etc., and it's just not a solid connection. I suppose it might be possible to reconfigure (read "break") this device so it's permanently locked, but by that point it's really not much more work to just stick in a new front output shaft.
I mean you can do what you want as far as going after Maktrans etc, but you simply do Not have a problem here in my opinion.
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
It's got play in exactly one direction. That's not spline play (which would be a tiny bit of wiggle in all directions). And FWIW, it's a brand new driveshaft (so no wear to account for).
Maybe 1mm of play in the U-joint is not going to be a problem. But I don't know that because the vendor ignored me for two weeks, then said that they don't do any warranty, and then told me that the problem is in my head. If they had taken a business-like approach to the problem and discussed it intelligently with me, I'd be fine with the situation.
FWIW, my video is not outstanding, but in the first few seconds you can clearly see 1mm or more of movement right at the face of the transfer case. I'm planning to remake a better video, with a runout gauge to show exactly how much play is in the U-joint. And of course, I'll label this one more specifically for those who are looking for info / feedback on that particular replacement part. ;-)
Maybe 1mm of play in the U-joint is not going to be a problem. But I don't know that because the vendor ignored me for two weeks, then said that they don't do any warranty, and then told me that the problem is in my head. If they had taken a business-like approach to the problem and discussed it intelligently with me, I'd be fine with the situation.
FWIW, my video is not outstanding, but in the first few seconds you can clearly see 1mm or more of movement right at the face of the transfer case. I'm planning to remake a better video, with a runout gauge to show exactly how much play is in the U-joint. And of course, I'll label this one more specifically for those who are looking for info / feedback on that particular replacement part. ;-)
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Joined: Jul 2012
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From: WI
GLK 250
It might be helpful if a few folks who haven't worked on the U-joint could measure the play and report back. That way you could compare real-world values. I'd tend to agree that if you're not hearing any noises, getting vibrations or other weird feelings, just button it up and drive it for awhile.
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Joined: Aug 2024
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From: Southern US
2010 GLK350 4Matic
It's got play in exactly one direction. That's not spline play (which would be a tiny bit of wiggle in all directions). And FWIW, it's a brand new driveshaft (so no wear to account for).
Maybe 1mm of play in the U-joint is not going to be a problem. But I don't know that because the vendor ignored me for two weeks, then said that they don't do any warranty, and then told me that the problem is in my head. If they had taken a business-like approach to the problem and discussed it intelligently with me, I'd be fine with the situation.
FWIW, my video is not outstanding, but in the first few seconds you can clearly see 1mm or more of movement right at the face of the transfer case. I'm planning to remake a better video, with a runout gauge to show exactly how much play is in the U-joint. And of course, I'll label this one more specifically for those who are looking for info / feedback on that particular replacement part. ;-)
Maybe 1mm of play in the U-joint is not going to be a problem. But I don't know that because the vendor ignored me for two weeks, then said that they don't do any warranty, and then told me that the problem is in my head. If they had taken a business-like approach to the problem and discussed it intelligently with me, I'd be fine with the situation.
FWIW, my video is not outstanding, but in the first few seconds you can clearly see 1mm or more of movement right at the face of the transfer case. I'm planning to remake a better video, with a runout gauge to show exactly how much play is in the U-joint. And of course, I'll label this one more specifically for those who are looking for info / feedback on that particular replacement part. ;-)
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2011 GLK 350 4Matic
When I tore it all down again, I couldn't find any play at all in the output shaft U-joint. It's kind of a mystery as to what was causing the play, but I put about 40,000 miles on the vehicle since then, without any issues at all. I suppose it was a very, very slightly out of round drive shaft, if anything.
