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GLK and C300 use the same upper shims it looks like.
When I searched online it kept showing as the 13mm recommended for my W204, turns out it came with the 9mm. Had to verify at the MB parts dept with my VIN#.
I realize now the 9mm shims come with the sports suspension. What thru me off was when the replacement springs showed up with 13mm shims that's what I thought was installed, since the springs were marked 1 violet/1 yellow dot for sports suspension. Also prior to doing the springs i had read thru threads on here about lowering springs and all i remember seeing was people said it has 13mm shims and how they installed shorter shims. The first time I heard 9mm shims are used is from the person at MB parts dept.
What I meant above about the GLK and C300 using the same upper shims is they are the same part #'s, depending on what came with the vehicles. Same with the lower shim, both use the same part #'s.
Went for an alignment today with my new Sachs springs and 4 nub spacers. The tech said the rear was too high. I measured the old springs and compared them to the new springs and they are the same, including wire diameter, number of coils and free length. Old spacers and new both have 4 nubs (17mm) and are correct for my VIN.
Do you think they will "settle in"? I always thought that was mostly hog wash. It's gone about 30 miles since the springs were changed.
Does anyone have a measurement from the center of the rear wheel to the bottom edge of the wheel arch?
I'm thinking if you have driven around they should be at the height they will stay at.
How much are they saying its too high?
How is the rear compared to the front? I went around measuring my W204 and the measurement from the ground to the bottom of the wheel well is about 1/4-3/8" higher in the rear. The car basically looks level. I dont know if it is meant to be like that, but makes sense to me. When I had initially installed the wrong size taller shims I immediately noticed it was sitting higher and something was off.
The height would have nothing to do with an alignment anyways.
Well, actually, it does. It changes the castor angle in front and the camber in the back.
Originally Posted by TimC300
How much are they saying its too high?
I don't know. They have a new alignment machine and apparently it has some sort of gauge. The reading he got was some sort of error. I figured the problem was the new springs, until I got home and measured everything and determined the parts were all correct. Any more discussion will have to wait until Monday.
This is a long shot, but at this point grasping at straws is all I can think to do.
WIS says to tighten the bolts through the lower control arm bushings with the drive shaft level. When I did that, the body was on jack stands and the other side was hanging down unsupported. Does anyone know if "preload" on those bushings could cause it to ride higher? I'd hate to go to all the trouble to get the thing lifted up and supported so I could loosen and retorque the bolts, only to find it didn't make any difference.
Can someone measure from the center of a front wheel to the edge of the wheel well, and same thing for the back, so I have something to compare too?
I was going to ask if the bolts were torqued with the car resting at ride level, wheels on the ground. Especially if it was the spring control arm and shock and sway bar link bolts.
When I did work on my rear suspension I put the wheels back on then lowered it down on my wooden ramps, then I crawled under and torqued everything down.
Do you have to raise the car to fit under it in the rear? Im able to squeeze under my W204 if its backed up on my ramps and that thing sits 4-1/2" off the ground at the jacking points, the ramps are just 2 planks of wood stacked on top of each other. I also have 2 longer planks I can always nail on to make the ramps taller, 3 planks high.
I have yet to do any work under my W204 with it not being driven on the wooden ramps. Oil changes, front and rear diff fluid, torqueing suspension parts, and replacing broken exhaust clamps. I am paranoid about being trapped under the car, would be my nightmare.
I don't think I could get under there without the ramps, and I suspect it would be tight even if it was on ramps. Having enough room to swing the torque wrench adds another degree of difficulty.
The WIS said to tighten them with the half shaft level. I jacked under the control arm until the half shaft was level then torqued the shock and control arm inner bolts. I didn't take any others out. I'm (now) just concerned that having the opposite side hanging may have thrown things off. I can put the car up on ramps in the back and level the front with jack stands, then I can probably crawl under and loosen then re-torque the bolts to see if that would help.
I just wish I had some measurements to know what I was aiming for. (Found one: the angle of the rear half shaft is supposed to be about 4% from horizontal.)
Took some crude measurements today, and as best as I can tell, it's at least very close to the maximum limit of 4.96 degrees, if not within the allowed range. (Spec is 3.96+/- 1.0).
It drives fine, so I think I'm going to leave it alone. The tires are almost worn out, anyhow, so, if they continue to wear evenly I'll call it good.
Oof - this is why I always swap the old springs onto the new struts (I know John CC's car had broken rear springs, so he didn't have that option). But every time I've tried a new spring, I ended up with an unwanted change in ride height.
An extra degree on the CV axle isn't the end of the world, but it would bug me (knowing it's wearing out faster, and absorbing more horsepower, not to mention those subtle differences in geometry).
I suppose you could always fill your spare tire well with sand - that oughta just about put you back to where you want to be. ;-)
06-09-2024, 06:52 PM
